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[yorkshire] [thruscross] [7a?] Lurker at the Threshold (Read 1838 times)

paul clough

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 I did this on 24/6/10; as yorkshiregrit.com not updating at mo i thought i'd send it here. Can't get photos up, a pity as it's an impressive-looking line.
 It's on Beanstalk Buttress, the crag in the trees opposite the main Thruscross boulders (mentioned on p.593 of 1998 Y.M.C. guide; details of existing routes can be found on the leeds wall website new routes database).
 It climbs the wall just R. of the big o/h arete on the R. side of the buttress (the arete itsself is "word to your mother", E56a?, Ben Bransby 1999; I think this is the L.G.P. referred to in the YMC guide): climb direct to the small ledge via slopers & crimps, then make a reachy & worrying rockover/mantel to the top.
 I've not climbed much for the last 3 years, so am out of touch with grades somewhat, but it's at least font 7a. Or E46b without mats. It's a lovely bit of rock - as good as grit gets, really - & there's more to go at hereabouts but it's overgrown & mucky, so fetching your cleaning (& probably abseiling) kit is advised.
 P.s. there's an easy access route: head into the plantation in the corner of the main carpark at the end of the dam (just past a bench & picnic table). Follow a faint track through the trees for 100+ metres to a clearing with a couple of large flat boulders. Head downhill for 20+ metres & the buttress appears. Much quicker & easier than getting to the main boulders; 5 mins max. 

uptown

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Nice work Paul.
I'd love to see the pictures, maybe slack-line can let you know how to post them.  ;)
I'm intrigued as to location too, as I've scuttled up some stuff around there.
Shame about YG. It's a bit off/on.

paul clough

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 No idea how to do photos, am total techno-dunce. Shame as it's a hugely impressive chunk of grit - "word to your mother" is a meaty beast of an arete (surely harder than brit 6a tho?).
 Are you the fella who cleaned & left a bit of chalk on the muffin-topped boulder next to the fence a couple hundred metres further along & above from beanstalk buttress? Another nice bit of rock, worth recording owt you did imo.
 SDS's to "Word.." & "Lurker.." should also be worthwhile. I'm crap at them tho. There's a very fine & hard sloping arete hidden hereabouts, too, but it'll take some serious gardening...
 God, i just love esoteric grit.
p.s. if you follow directions in 1st post you'll find the place easy, it's surprisingly short & simple access. "lurker" is in the slight gully immediately R of the very obvious big blunt o/h arete. Dead obvious lines when you see them. You'll need mats tho, they're big & lurker's landing's shocking. The wall L of the arete goes too, E46b apparently. Not sure of the exact line it takes; i suspect you could climb this wall anywhere at somewhere between brit 6b & 6c - there's a lot more holds than it appears from below.
« Last Edit: August 20, 2010, 10:15:55 pm by paul clough »

Johnny Brown

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Quote
"word to your mother", E56a?, Ben Bransby 1999

His first and last great route name?

SA Chris

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before his relationship / fruit obsession.

 

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