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LOTF (Read 13326 times)

Adam Lincoln

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LOTF
August 19, 2010, 03:18:44 pm
Shameful beta request alert.  :-[
What's the crucial gear on Lord nowadays with all the placements that have broke.
Thanks in advance.

Johnny Brown

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#1 Re: LOTF
August 19, 2010, 03:24:45 pm
My favourite Lord anecdote is that El Mocho took a double rack of tricams with him and promptly placed so much gear he ran out of quickdraws and had to do the runout anyway. I suspect this is about 10% true, but its a good story.

Teaboy

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#2 Re: LOTF
August 19, 2010, 04:31:50 pm
You can 'accidentally' get all the gear beta you want for either the top half or the bottom half (but not both without swinging around) by warming up on Right Wall first and abbing off.

I doubt the gear is any different now to 15 years ago. Hex 3 low down was the only off piste bit of gear I carried to a normal rack. Most crucial piece was a sling over a rounded spike, I placed a friend three to hold it in place but didn't clip the friend as it was no good for holding a fall.

6 feet below the top is a horizontal slot which takes a perfect rock 8, I fell taking a hand off to place this and have been gutted ever since!

duncan

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#3 Re: LOTF
August 19, 2010, 05:47:14 pm
This picture (UKC so link only) and the associated comments may be of some use.

Doylo

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#4 Re: LOTF
August 19, 2010, 06:22:36 pm
You can 'accidentally' get all the gear beta you want for either the top half or the bottom half (but not both without swinging around) by warming up on Right Wall first and abbing off.

I doubt the gear is any different now to 15 years ago. Hex 3 low down was the only off piste bit of gear I carried to a normal rack. Most crucial piece was a sling over a rounded spike, I placed a friend three to hold it in place but didn't clip the friend as it was no good for holding a fall.

6 feet below the top is a horizontal slot which takes a perfect rock 8, I fell taking a hand off to place this and have been gutted ever since!

There goes yer onsight sausage!

Adam Lincoln

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#5 Re: LOTF
August 19, 2010, 06:24:06 pm
You can 'accidentally' get all the gear beta you want for either the top half or the bottom half (but not both without swinging around) by warming up on Right Wall first and abbing off.

I doubt the gear is any different now to 15 years ago. Hex 3 low down was the only off piste bit of gear I carried to a normal rack. Most crucial piece was a sling over a rounded spike, I placed a friend three to hold it in place but didn't clip the friend as it was no good for holding a fall.

6 feet below the top is a horizontal slot which takes a perfect rock 8, I fell taking a hand off to place this and have been gutted ever since!

There goes yer onsight sausage!

I will be happy with a flash/not tooling myself  :whistle:

Doylo

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#6 Re: LOTF
August 19, 2010, 06:26:07 pm
If i remember rightly you can only tool yourself on the start and if you fall there you probably deserve to   ;D

The Sausage

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#7 Re: LOTF
August 19, 2010, 07:14:08 pm
You can 'accidentally' get all the gear beta you want for either the top half or the bottom half (but not both without swinging around) by warming up on Right Wall first and abbing off.

I doubt the gear is any different now to 15 years ago. Hex 3 low down was the only off piste bit of gear I carried to a normal rack. Most crucial piece was a sling over a rounded spike, I placed a friend three to hold it in place but didn't clip the friend as it was no good for holding a fall.

6 feet below the top is a horizontal slot which takes a perfect rock 8, I fell taking a hand off to place this and have been gutted ever since!

There goes yer onsight sausage!

13 years too late for that Doylo...

I remember a little hex low down, using a thin sling on a blunt spike, then crucial thin thread in a pocket below the ledge. A few really good wires on the ledge, then clip the rest of your rack to your last piece of gear (London Wall style) and go for the top.

Doylo

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#8 Re: LOTF
August 19, 2010, 08:11:59 pm
i was talking to the other sausage sausage  ;D

lagerstarfish

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#9 Re: LOTF
August 19, 2010, 08:27:34 pm
I can sell you Dave Thomas's rack that he used on LOTF.

60

+ 41p p&p

or could just email it to you
« Last Edit: August 19, 2010, 08:39:13 pm by lagerstarfish »

Adam Lincoln

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#10 Re: LOTF
August 19, 2010, 10:32:16 pm
I can sell you Dave Thomas's rack that he used on LOTF.

60

+ 41p p&p

or could just email it to you

Deal  ;)

petejh

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#11 Re: LOTF
August 19, 2010, 10:51:19 pm
I can sell you Dave Thomas's rack that he used on LOTF.

60

+ 41p p&p

or could just email it to you

Pricey for a chalkbag, is it filled?

The Sausage

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#12 Re: LOTF
August 20, 2010, 07:24:26 am
I reckon fast and light is the way to go.

I took a set of wires, a few thin slings and 8 'draws if I remember rightly. Which is unlikely. And the hex for the start, although I'm sure a rock 5 would work.

lagerstarfish

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#13 Re: LOTF
August 20, 2010, 07:56:10 am
I can sell you Dave Thomas's rack that he used on LOTF.

60

+ 41p p&p

or could just email it to you

Pricey for a chalkbag, is it filled?

I haven't got the chalkbag, just the hardwear.

Jaspersharpe

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#14 Re: LOTF
August 20, 2010, 01:00:30 pm
Can you sell mentalism?

Tris

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Jaspersharpe

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#16 Re: LOTF
August 20, 2010, 02:22:06 pm
How fucking random. Are you studying for a new career?


Tris

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#17 Re: LOTF
August 20, 2010, 02:26:07 pm
Yep... you wanna volunteer?



Probes

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#18 Re: LOTF
August 20, 2010, 04:23:34 pm
Essential gear for LOTF this weekend for sure....

lagerstarfish

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#19 Re: LOTF
August 22, 2010, 11:10:37 pm
Can you sell mentalism?

Yes, yes I can.

That'll be 599.99 for today's installment

The Sausage

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#20 Re: LOTF
August 24, 2010, 09:41:12 am
Essential gear for LOTF this weekend for sure....


Is that Jim?

TobyD

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#21 Re: LOTF
August 25, 2010, 04:51:47 pm
take a skyhook. I did, and was very glad of it when i was engulfed in a particularly heavy and persistent rainstorm (even for wales) about halfway up, and lowered off it. I dimly remember getting quite a good 'shothole' alien (the purple one about the same as a red camalot) in somewhere before the heavens opened.
Unfortunately i can't be any more help than that as i havn't actually gone and finished it off yet.

dobbin

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#22 Re: LOTF
August 26, 2010, 09:31:05 am

Doylo

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#23 Re: LOTF
August 26, 2010, 10:01:23 am
no thats on the left wall, nice shot though!

Drewski Rootbitch

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#24 Re: LOTF
August 26, 2010, 10:05:28 am
You sure that's Left Wall? Looks way more slabby than I remember, mind you the Pass looks a lot steeper than I recall too. :)

Doylo

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#25 Re: LOTF
August 26, 2010, 10:24:49 am
I meant something on the left wall. Could be left wall though, is slightly slabby that side

Drewski Rootbitch

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#26 Re: LOTF
August 26, 2010, 10:28:10 am
On my 'puter Dobbin's picture wasn't rotated.
Made the route look well easy.

Probes

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#27 Re: LOTF
August 26, 2010, 12:57:45 pm
JOe la sage on leftwall? sure that pic was in a mag a few yr ago

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#28 Re: LOTF
January 08, 2011, 12:09:36 pm
Take a skyhook or 2 for sure. And something for the shothole (purple alien?) I had nothing for the shothole and the crux felt really serious. I also tried to place a sling with my foot but didnt quite pull it off, but it would have been useful.
Got a gold camalot in a handhold just before the traverse right early on.
A rock 8 or 9 and a green camalot for the headwall are both bomber.
Not sure how much detail i should go into, if you want anymore beta just ask!

Muenchener

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#29 Re: LOTF
March 31, 2011, 08:02:30 am
 Funny, I'm seeing no mention of large hexes here. Johnny & Andy Pollitt borrowed my 7 or 8 hex supposedly for LOTF, some time in the early 80s. I never got it back   >:(

 

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