[lukeyboy]

Thanks for all the beta. Going to font tomorrow eve, very psyched. And it looks like the weather should be ok 

[lukeyboy]

Thought I'd do a little post trip follow up. Had a good trip, nice weather but quite warm. Went with gf and another couple who climb a couple of grades lower, so didn't end up working anything for very long as it felt a bit antisocial/pad-hogging. Didn't manage anything harder than 7a, though I did 6 7As (one flashed and 3 second go) which was a reasonable improvement from the last trip. From the suggestions given on this thread:

Did have a look at/tried/did:
El Poussif 7a+ (isatis) - Was getting to the last move then it started raining. V technical, v good. Would be a good one to work with several people as it's sequency.
Impasse du Hazard 7a+ (cuisiniere) - Not as good as it looked, but seemed ok. In a corridor as mentioned.
Carnage 7b+ (cuvier) - Brick. Only a quick play but couldn't even get to the first hold.
La Joker (cuvier) - Chipped nastiness. Had a try on previous trip, felt very solid for 7a.
Cortomaltese (cuvier) - Did using LH sloper only. Yes it's chipped, and just one slap move, but I did in fact quite enjoy it.
Sale Gosse 7c (sabots) - Had a play, much smaller than I'd realised. I liked it, but it was a bit polished/poffed. The mono was utter shite.
La Coeur 7a (elephant) - Got pretty close. The heart is quite sharp for LH (wore my skin down), more interesting than it looks, good problem. And aesthetic with it.
Rubis sur l'Ongle 7b+(gorge aux chats) - Got to the crux moves (about 2/3). Very thin, pretty technical, very good. Old school classic. Some of the crimps were pretty sharp

Weren't mentioned in this thread but did/tried and worth mentioning:
Jetset 7a (sabots) - Tried this before and got close, went pretty easily this time. Felt softish for 7a, quite good moves, the final move slap is quality.
Mouton a cinq pattes 7a (cuisiniere) - Flashed, felt more like 6a. Very nice problem, good looking bit of rock and good moves.
Defroquee 6c+ (cuvier) - The slab right of cortomaltese. About fair for the grade I thought. Easyish then a hard rock up on a shit LF to a big hold. Not that worthwhile.
Plats de Saison 7a (gorge aux chats) - 2nd go. Couple of powerful moves on sloper/pockets, delicate top out. Very good problem. Suited me well.
Pierre Vicieuse 7a (gorge aux chats) - 2nd go. Felt much more like 6a. Not that good, a bit eliminate too.
La Dalle Fleaux 6b (elephant) - Below the suggested grade range but very good, and felt hard. Took a fair few goes, technical and sequency. Interesting problem.
Le Lepreux Direct 7a (elephant) - 2nd go but tried previously. Short problem but perfect font slopers. I liked this.
Moondance 6a (cuisiniere) - Not hard, but excellent and worth the short walk from cuisiniere. High enough to be exciting but not brown trousers. Worth seeking out.

Didn't have a look at/go to/try:
Appartenance 7c (buthiers)
Attention Chef (buthiers)
Aerodynamite (cuvier)
Holey Moley (cuvier)
Festin de Pierre (cuvier est)
Noir Desir 7c (rempart)
Laser (rempart)
Caresse 7a+ (isatis)
Sur-prises 7b+ (isatis)
L'Arrache Coeur 7c (isatis)
Retrofriction (cuisiniere)
Onde de Choc (apremont)
Tarpe Diem (apremont)
Arabesque (cul de chien)
Gargantoit (gorges du houx)

[GCW]

Mouton a cinq pattes 7a (cuisiniere) - Flashed, felt more like 6a. Very nice problem, good looking bit of rock and good moves.

Really?  I thought it was nails!!

[lukeyboy]

Mouton a cinq pattes 7a (cuisiniere) - Flashed, felt more like 6a. Very nice problem, good looking bit of rock and good moves.

Really?  I thought it was nails!!

Yeah... there's two 7a's next to each other there, one called 'mouton a 5 pattes' and the other 'mouton a 6 pattes', you might have been on the other one? Mouton a 6 pattes felt pretty tough to me, did it from stand but didn't end up doing the sit.

[GCW]

I have done both 5 and 6.

The left of the the two (Cinq) felt hard to me, see recent video, whereas Six seemed a much better problem and right for 7a.

Horses.  Courses.   

[lukeyboy]

Yep, fair enough. I thought there was a chance there might have been confusion with the similar names and all. Grades just make less and less sense to me the more I climb (especially in font), and I'd probably consider myself an all rounder as styles of problem go. Both nice problems I thought, quite different.

[Richie Crouch]

Totally agree.

I reckon la Nescafe was about a grade harder than 'Ange Naif..etc.

Good effort crushing 5 pattes, I remember that taking ages a few years back compared to Impasse and bizarre bizarre at the same venue.

[highrepute]

Nice write up - enjoyed reading it.

We struggled on cinq pattes as well. was quite warm when we tried it maybe those topout slopers have come in to condition. what were the temps like?

Dalle Fleux (this is the slab in font emotions that someone's struggles on) also found it hard. But on a return trip some friend got some beta off a bleausard who set the circuit at elephant and with his sequence apparently is 6b!

Love the way climbing in the forest polarizes so many people; one persons couldn't get off the ground is another's pissed it first go.

[JamieG]

Good effort on La Défroquée.

I thought i had done this on one trip and was made up only to discover i have climbed a right variant called Bizzare. Oh well, next time . . .

[saltbeef]

anyone else got any other offers in this grade range?
current list is problems that i have previously failed on...
eclipse
noir desir
berenzina (ffs)

[account_inactive]

anyone else got any other offers in this grade range?
current list is problems that i have previously failed on...
eclipse
noir desir
berenzina (ffs)

Stick to the blue circuits for the sake of your blood pressure

[saltbeef]

the garlic and red wine'll keep that in check. and i'm not driving! (ps get out of my fucking way)

[dave]

anyone else got any other offers in this grade range?
current list is problems that i have previously failed on...
eclipse
noir desir
berenzina (ffs)

get on vandale, its very good.

[saltbeef]

had forgotten about that. rain stopped play last time. grrrrrrrrr
just looked at etrave. don't fancy removing my tip but it looks dynamite