[lukeyboy]

I've had a brief trawl of the forums and couldn't find any old topics quite what I'm after. Heading out to font at the end of sept, have only climbed 7a's in the forest before but looking to find some projects for this trip and maybe a bit beyond. Not very interested in traversing or bad landings. Could anybody please give me some recommendations of 7a to 7c problems in font that are really worthwhile/great lines/hidden gems etc.

I've got a couple of ideas so far -

Appartenance 7c (buthiers)
Noir Desir 7c (rempart)
El Poussif 7a+ (isatis)
L'Arrache Coeur 7c (isatis)
Caresse 7a+ (isatis)
Sur-prises 7b+ (isatis)
Carnage 7b+ (cuvier)
Sale Gosse 7c (sabots)
Impasse du Hazard 7a+ (cuisiniere)
La Coeur 7a (elephant)

Obviously not going to go and tick these all in a week, but the more options, the more likely I am to find something I get on with. As a sidenote, are any of these horrible sandbags/not very good?

[lagerstarfish]

Have you got the off-piste guide? There's a "best problems" list at the back.

[GCW]

Not very interested in traversing or bad landings.

Impasse du Hazard 7a+ (cuisiniere)

You may not like that one, but have a look.  It's in a corridor which can be off putting.
What sort of stuff do you want to do/ avoid?

[lukeyboy]

I'm quite all round, but I like slopers, techy stuff and slabs I'd say. But not averse to power problems. That's partly why I didn't specify type of problem, I don't mind that much, it just has to be good! Not looking for anything too highball. I saw that Impasse is in a corridor, is it thin enough to make falling off nasty? That move just looks really good.

And I don't have the off piste guide, I'm ashamed to say I've only got the purple one. I'm only just starting to get into the grade range for the 7+8 (though I hear it's worth it for the topo's alone) and I'm not really keen to spend £30 on a guidebook until I'm going to get the most out of it.

[GCW]

I didn't fancy trying it on my own, the corridor is too narrow for a mat to lie down.  I'm told it's fine though, I'm just a wuss.

This thread may give you some ideas too.

[Stubbs]

7+8 is probably the best guidebook out there, buying it should act as a source of inspiration, and if you are already climbing 7A's there's plenty in there for you to go at.  The filled and hollow star system is also a great way to go to new crags to try problems that you probably wouldn't have checked out otherwise.

[SteG]

  what stubbs said

I'd thoroughly recommend La Joker at Cuvier if you haven't already done it, or the direct start to Duroxmanie on the way up to Rempart at a borderline 7a/7a+ if you're heading that way to look at Noir Desire

[lukeyboy]

what stubbs said

I'd thoroughly recommend La Joker at Cuvier if you haven't already done it, or the direct start to Duroxmanie on the way up to Rempart at a borderline 7a/7a+ if you're heading that way to look at Noir Desire

I had a quick go on duroxmanie last trip on the last day, I'd like to do this but my skin was too thin to achieve much. I'll definitely go back to it. I've tried La Joker and found it completely desperate. Might have had duff beta, but I thought it had a rep for being pretty solid at 7a. Thanks for the recommendations.

[lukeyboy]

I'd love to get a copy of 7+8 but it really is pushing my budget at the moment, maybe if I get a new job or a lot stronger 

[Jim]

ignore SteG's post. the only good prob there is noir desire which is no push-over.

[lukeyboy]

ignore SteG's post. the only good prob there is noir desire which is no push-over.

The only good problem in his post or on my list? Or at rempart..?!

[Jim]

la joker and deroxamie direct are both well hard and not particulary pleasant

[SteG]

interesting  I find both reasonable but very solid 7a's but then I generally prefer crimpy wall climbs over compression style stuff. I had a quick play on Noir Desire with tanners last xmas and I was utterly shit on it while he cruised it. Also enjoyed La Baleine as Petis Bois but it doesn't quite fullfill landing creiteria, it's OK but not 5*

[lukeyboy]

Also enjoyed La Baleine as Petis Bois but it doesn't quite fullfill landing creiteria, it's OK but not 5*

Ok is ok, just not shit 

[Richie Crouch]

- Festin de Pierre
- Attention Chef
- Onde de Choc
- Rubis sur ongle
- Arabesque
- Aerodynamite

All worth doing I reckon

[lukeyboy]

Thanks a lot for the recommendations Richie. I've had a quick bleau.info of those and I reckon nearly all of them look excellent. Arabesque looks a bit on the thrutchy side but keen to have a look.

[dave]

Joker at cuvier is chipped garbage - AVOID.

[benpritch]

Joker at cuvier is chipped garbage - AVOID.

is anything at cuvier not chipped?

[highrepute]

Not very interested in traversing or bad landings.

Impasse du Hazard 7a+ (cuisiniere)

You may not like that one, but have a look.  It's in a corridor which can be off putting.
What sort of stuff do you want to do/ avoid?

I thought it was pretty safe, you don't really fall off it you put a foot on the wall behind you. which, infact, for me was the crux. if you're short(ish) this is a lot easier. Corridor was wide enough for a mat folded up the opposite wall which worked fine for us.

Gargantoit was my fav problem on our last trip, well worth seeking out imho.

[lukeyboy]

Thanks for that. Gargantoit does look really good, the only thing putting me off was that it's in the middle of nowhere on it's own (at least I seem to remember so) which would mean a special trip here to try just one problem. I guess that's kind of the case for other projects, but at least there's some stuff to warm up on (+ for the gf) and other probs to try if it's not good/too hard/out of condition etc etc. Anyone got any thoughts on this? Does it actually take long to get there and find it? Might save it for a longer trip.

[Baldy]

I rate Holey Moley (cuvier) quite highly at hard 7a with slopers and strong lockoffs...http://bleau.info/cuvier/200.html
Retrofriction at Cuisiniere was funky too. 7a again...http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/9531.html
I rememember enjoying Laser but it is apparently a little easier than you asked for...http://bleau.info/rempart/305.html

[Jim]

gargantoit is certainly worth going to do, there are other problems by it.
Also any of the 3 sit starts to gargantoit are also very good at 7b+ each

[Eddies]

Cortomaltès - Bas Cuvier 

[lagerstarfish]

Tarpé Diem at Appremont.

The ground used to be higher under this problem (was a naturally occuring lump), but I'm sure I had to do a move and some foot jiggery to get to the posiution that Neil starts from in the bleau.com vid - can't quite remember though 

[Jim]

cortomaltes - log
tarpe diem - morpho

[lukeyboy]

Thanks for all the beta. Going to font tomorrow eve, very psyched. And it looks like the weather should be ok 

[lukeyboy]

Thought I'd do a little post trip follow up. Had a good trip, nice weather but quite warm. Went with gf and another couple who climb a couple of grades lower, so didn't end up working anything for very long as it felt a bit antisocial/pad-hogging. Didn't manage anything harder than 7a, though I did 6 7As (one flashed and 3 second go) which was a reasonable improvement from the last trip. From the suggestions given on this thread:

Did have a look at/tried/did:
El Poussif 7a+ (isatis) - Was getting to the last move then it started raining. V technical, v good. Would be a good one to work with several people as it's sequency.
Impasse du Hazard 7a+ (cuisiniere) - Not as good as it looked, but seemed ok. In a corridor as mentioned.
Carnage 7b+ (cuvier) - Brick. Only a quick play but couldn't even get to the first hold.
La Joker (cuvier) - Chipped nastiness. Had a try on previous trip, felt very solid for 7a.
Cortomaltese (cuvier) - Did using LH sloper only. Yes it's chipped, and just one slap move, but I did in fact quite enjoy it.
Sale Gosse 7c (sabots) - Had a play, much smaller than I'd realised. I liked it, but it was a bit polished/poffed. The mono was utter shite.
La Coeur 7a (elephant) - Got pretty close. The heart is quite sharp for LH (wore my skin down), more interesting than it looks, good problem. And aesthetic with it.
Rubis sur l'Ongle 7b+(gorge aux chats) - Got to the crux moves (about 2/3). Very thin, pretty technical, very good. Old school classic. Some of the crimps were pretty sharp

Weren't mentioned in this thread but did/tried and worth mentioning:
Jetset 7a (sabots) - Tried this before and got close, went pretty easily this time. Felt softish for 7a, quite good moves, the final move slap is quality.
Mouton a cinq pattes 7a (cuisiniere) - Flashed, felt more like 6a. Very nice problem, good looking bit of rock and good moves.
Defroquee 6c+ (cuvier) - The slab right of cortomaltese. About fair for the grade I thought. Easyish then a hard rock up on a shit LF to a big hold. Not that worthwhile.
Plats de Saison 7a (gorge aux chats) - 2nd go. Couple of powerful moves on sloper/pockets, delicate top out. Very good problem. Suited me well.
Pierre Vicieuse 7a (gorge aux chats) - 2nd go. Felt much more like 6a. Not that good, a bit eliminate too.
La Dalle Fleaux 6b (elephant) - Below the suggested grade range but very good, and felt hard. Took a fair few goes, technical and sequency. Interesting problem.
Le Lepreux Direct 7a (elephant) - 2nd go but tried previously. Short problem but perfect font slopers. I liked this.
Moondance 6a (cuisiniere) - Not hard, but excellent and worth the short walk from cuisiniere. High enough to be exciting but not brown trousers. Worth seeking out.

Didn't have a look at/go to/try:
Appartenance 7c (buthiers)
Attention Chef (buthiers)
Aerodynamite (cuvier)
Holey Moley (cuvier)
Festin de Pierre (cuvier est)
Noir Desir 7c (rempart)
Laser (rempart)
Caresse 7a+ (isatis)
Sur-prises 7b+ (isatis)
L'Arrache Coeur 7c (isatis)
Retrofriction (cuisiniere)
Onde de Choc (apremont)
Tarpe Diem (apremont)
Arabesque (cul de chien)
Gargantoit (gorges du houx)

[GCW]

Mouton a cinq pattes 7a (cuisiniere) - Flashed, felt more like 6a. Very nice problem, good looking bit of rock and good moves.

Really?  I thought it was nails!!

[lukeyboy]

Mouton a cinq pattes 7a (cuisiniere) - Flashed, felt more like 6a. Very nice problem, good looking bit of rock and good moves.

Really?  I thought it was nails!!

Yeah... there's two 7a's next to each other there, one called 'mouton a 5 pattes' and the other 'mouton a 6 pattes', you might have been on the other one? Mouton a 6 pattes felt pretty tough to me, did it from stand but didn't end up doing the sit.

[GCW]

I have done both 5 and 6.

The left of the the two (Cinq) felt hard to me, see recent video, whereas Six seemed a much better problem and right for 7a.

Horses.  Courses.   

[lukeyboy]

Yep, fair enough. I thought there was a chance there might have been confusion with the similar names and all. Grades just make less and less sense to me the more I climb (especially in font), and I'd probably consider myself an all rounder as styles of problem go. Both nice problems I thought, quite different.

[Richie Crouch]

Totally agree.

I reckon la Nescafe was about a grade harder than 'Ange Naif..etc.

Good effort crushing 5 pattes, I remember that taking ages a few years back compared to Impasse and bizarre bizarre at the same venue.

[highrepute]

Nice write up - enjoyed reading it.

We struggled on cinq pattes as well. was quite warm when we tried it maybe those topout slopers have come in to condition. what were the temps like?

Dalle Fleux (this is the slab in font emotions that someone's struggles on) also found it hard. But on a return trip some friend got some beta off a bleausard who set the circuit at elephant and with his sequence apparently is 6b!

Love the way climbing in the forest polarizes so many people; one persons couldn't get off the ground is another's pissed it first go.

[JamieG]

Good effort on La Défroquée.

I thought i had done this on one trip and was made up only to discover i have climbed a right variant called Bizzare. Oh well, next time . . .

[saltbeef]

anyone else got any other offers in this grade range?
current list is problems that i have previously failed on...
eclipse
noir desir
berenzina (ffs)

[account_inactive]

anyone else got any other offers in this grade range?
current list is problems that i have previously failed on...
eclipse
noir desir
berenzina (ffs)

Stick to the blue circuits for the sake of your blood pressure

[saltbeef]

the garlic and red wine'll keep that in check. and i'm not driving! (ps get out of my fucking way)

[dave]

anyone else got any other offers in this grade range?
current list is problems that i have previously failed on...
eclipse
noir desir
berenzina (ffs)

get on vandale, its very good.

[saltbeef]

had forgotten about that. rain stopped play last time. grrrrrrrrr
just looked at etrave. don't fancy removing my tip but it looks dynamite