UKBouldering.com

Recommendations for a first peak 7A (Read 7519 times)

BB

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 927
  • Karma: +38/-0
  • Sissy climber
Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 11:43:10 am
As per the title really. I'm looking for a likely cadidate for my first 7A and would appreciate some recommendations from folks more familiar with the peak than I am. My preferred style is generally (although not limited) technical and fingery.

This isn't a request for a list of soft touches by the way! I'm after quality rather than easy ticks.

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8825
  • Karma: +820/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
#1 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 11:46:23 am
Grit or lime?

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20300
  • Karma: +644/-11
#2 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 12:10:31 pm
Grit or lime?

Splutters tea on floor...

I found Trackside at Curbar soft/easy a steady 7a - especially if you are above average height.. more knack than thrutch... 

Rabies

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 70
  • Karma: +1/-0
#3 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 12:15:19 pm
I believe there is a bouldering guide for the peak....could be wrong.  This may be of help.

Anyone recommend any good boulder problems in North Wales with a mono for the left hand and preferably a heel hook for the right foot? 

Thanks

Luthor

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 184
  • Karma: +4/-1
#4 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 12:15:45 pm
Gorilla Warfare at Curbur...

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#5 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 12:18:49 pm
I believe there is a bouldering guide for the peakNorth Wales....could be wrong.  This may be of help.

Anyone recommend any good boulder problems in North Wales with a mono for the left hand and preferably a heel hook for the right foot? 

Thanks

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#6 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 12:25:55 pm
wake up slack-line

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#7 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 12:40:11 pm
As per the title really. I'm looking for a likely cadidate for my first 7A and would appreciate some recommendations from folks more familiar with the peak than I am. My preferred style is generally (although not limited) technical and fingery.

This isn't a request for a list of soft touches by the way! I'm after quality rather than easy ticks.

Gorilla Warfare at Curbur...

Well that ticks none of the boxes then!  ;)

wake up slack-line

 :lol:

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#8 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 12:46:05 pm
Heads above the parapet and don't travel for this alone but a 7a limestone fingery wall climb that's not bad is Saline Drip at Raven Tor. DISCLAIMER: I'm not sending you here to do this.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#10 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 12:55:50 pm
too pedantic, you missed the irony of Rabies post

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#11 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 01:03:41 pm
 :oops: Irony never translates well on t'net  :read:

BB

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 927
  • Karma: +38/-0
  • Sissy climber
#12 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 05:02:52 pm
Grit or lime?

Grit of course.

Quote
Anyone recommend any good boulder problems in North Wales with a mono for the left hand and preferably a heel hook for the right foot? 

I was prepared for the irony and would have been disappointed if there wasn't any!  :kiss2:

I lost my right foot in an unfortunate smelting accident and I have a hook for a left hand so I always steer clear of the sort of problems you're after. Sorry i can't be more help.

Rabies

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 70
  • Karma: +1/-0
#13 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 05:10:14 pm
 :P

JamieG

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1302
  • Karma: +82/-0
#14 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 05:26:36 pm
If you are in the curbar/baslow area. Maybe a trip to the eagle stone to try 'the beagle has landed' is worthwhile. It is given 7a+ but might tick the boxes since it is very fingery and quite balancey. Although there is a slappy move for a decent sloper after that (crux?).

I think it is a good problem, although i waiver any responsibility if you split tips on it.  :)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8746
  • Karma: +639/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#15 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 05:36:59 pm
I haven't done many but Jerrys arete at Robin Hood's Stride is good - not especially fingery but a good first one.

Richie Crouch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1830
  • Karma: +92/-0
  • G Time
#16 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 06:03:03 pm
I agree with the Shark, fantastic problem. Also that 7aish slab next to the nice arete (that can be climbed on both sides) also at the stride?

Dr T

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1518
  • Karma: +49/-3
#17 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 06:42:16 pm
Mermaid at Burbage Bridge - she was my first    :-*

yorkshirewarcry

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 78
  • Karma: +3/-0
#18 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 06:44:00 pm
Satin @ the Plantation...?

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11490
  • Karma: +703/-22
#19 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 08:11:35 pm
Agree with the Eaglestone idea. Lots to go at there, in a range of styles including fingery.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#20 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 09:52:13 pm
I agree with the Shark, fantastic problem. Also that 7aish slab next to the nice arete (that can be climbed on both sides) also at the stride?
have you lost your mind Richie! That slab is 9a+!!!!!
Mermaid on the other hand is a good shout.
That traverse up at the plantation between hour glass and captain hook, is that 7a? its really good anyway

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8825
  • Karma: +820/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
#21 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 11, 2010, 10:07:19 pm
That traverse up at the plantation between hour glass and captain hook, is that 7a? its really good anyway

6c ?

It is very good  :thumbsup:

and that slab is not 9a+, it is only 8a+
« Last Edit: August 11, 2010, 10:14:47 pm by lagerstarfish »

Drew

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Am I really a
  • Posts: 1739
  • Karma: +36/-4
#22 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 08:40:25 am
Ritchie's 9A+ slab at the Stride (it's not too bad if you can stand on your feet)
Satin
Pressure Drop (it says 7C, but I'm pretty sure it's coming down to 7A+)
Banana Reverse
Electrical Storm
Trackside
Mark's Roof LH (aka Roadside Roof but the new guide has it as 6C+)
Hemline

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9956
  • Karma: +563/-9
#23 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 09:05:30 am
The Nose – Burb W
The Fin – Gib Tor   
The Alliance – Burb S – You’ll need a good spotter on this one as it’s high with a weird landing
Pebble Mill Stem – Burb S - Much better than Pebble Mill Traverse
Dry Whit in a Wet Country – RHS – Again, a bit highball but this time the landing is ok.
Brad’s Arete the Presence of Absence – Stanton – Might just make the 7a grade. A recent find but destined to become an area classic.
Mark’s Roof LH (or even better Mark’s Roof into the finish of MRLH) – Both very friendly, with the right hand start being a touch harder and more subtle.
Bin Laden’s Cave – Worth finding

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5798
  • Karma: +187/-5
#24 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 09:51:10 am
MRLH always seems fair at 7a and is a good rec. Although I realise just how cool it is to downgrade everything these days.

dontfollowme

Offline
  • ****
  • Trusted Users
  • junky
  • Posts: 955
  • Karma: +13/-0
#25 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 10:02:53 am
Is the new Peak bouldering guide out this year?

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5798
  • Karma: +187/-5
#26 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 10:17:27 am
possibly by christmas. we're upgrading everything by two grades.

Wipey Why

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1403
  • Karma: +52/-0
#27 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 10:19:41 am
I found Trackside at Curbar soft/easy a steady 7a - especially if you are above average height.. more knack than thrutch...

Personally I thought it was pretty fair for the grade, but I am short to the point of almost being an Oompa Loompa

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8746
  • Karma: +639/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#28 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 10:38:46 am
possibly by christmas. we're upgrading everything by two grades.


Screw integrity. Make it 3 grades and you'll double sales.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13526
  • Karma: +687/-68
  • Whut
#29 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 10:39:17 am
have you lost your mind Richie! That slab is 9a+!!!!!
Mermaid on the other hand is a good shout.
I'll take that :D

Is anyone going to suggest any technical / fingery ones?? Apart from Satin which is V4 (Font 6c-)....

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5798
  • Karma: +187/-5
#30 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 10:42:36 am
possibly by christmas. we're upgrading everything by two grades.


Screw integrity. Make it 3 grades and you'll double sales.

we'd be accused of headline grabbing as Voyager SS would be Font 9a then. And then we'd look silly. Really silly.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20300
  • Karma: +644/-11
#31 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 10:47:18 am
possibly by christmas. we're upgrading everything by two grades.

Screw integrity. Make it 3 grades and you'll double sales.

And most people here would make their yearly goals, Hell if you make it 4 grades I may even make 8a!

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9956
  • Karma: +563/-9
#32 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 11:08:01 am
Fingery and technical 7as  :-\, how about:
Small is Beautiful - Burb N
Krush Regime - Burb W
Little Gem (via jump start) - Burb S
Mounting Frustration - Stanage
Glom Onto - Rivelin Quarry

Eddies

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1245
  • Karma: +52/-6
#33 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 12:21:05 pm
Another vote for Trackside at Curbar
or...
Stall Arete - Gib Torr
Ollies Roof - Roaches

BB

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 927
  • Karma: +38/-0
  • Sissy climber
#34 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 02:51:23 pm
Thanks for all the suggestions. Very much appreciated, I'll compile a r-man-esque list.

possibly by christmas. we're upgrading everything by two grades.

If you can upgrade Razor roof then I can claim to have already done my first 7A.  ;D

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3639
  • Karma: +200/-3
#35 Re: Recommendations for a first peak 7A
August 12, 2010, 11:55:52 pm
I'd go with:

Curbar:

Trackside - a bit soft but I took it
Dan's Wall sitter
Gorilla Warfare - burly I thought, but I have no muscles

Also:

7a slab by the path at Burb South - though you have to start off the ground
Slab inbetween the aretes at Robin Hood's
 

And there's the slabs next to Crescent Arete at Stanage - not done them but gather they're good value for 7a.
And on that note - Breakfast, Burbage West, not done yet but it's very good.


 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal