UKBouldering.com

New Scarpa range (Read 2974 times)

weakdave

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +15/-0
  • Technically lacking
New Scarpa range
December 03, 2010, 08:34:54 pm
I have tried both Instincts on and The Vapour velcros and they all feel pretty good in the shop. Has anyone actually used them in anger? If so, what are they like? Thinking of spunking some more cash away before the VAt goes up and shoes prices sore

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4314
  • Karma: +347/-25
#1 Re: New Scarpa range
December 03, 2010, 08:50:32 pm
I've used magos for a while but got some instinct lace ups in mid september and since then they've been my first choice shoe, especially on steeper stuff. The rubber's not worn as well as the magos (i'm through mine now, despite not using them on warm ups or warm downs, though I have been a full time climber since I got them) but they do feel a bit stickier.. I'm buying some more for sure. Not used vapours.

Dr T

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1518
  • Karma: +49/-3
#2 Re: New Scarpa range
December 04, 2010, 01:42:29 pm
the instinct lace ups are the best shoes I've had - simples

CBA

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 82
  • Karma: +23/-0
  • Gin drinking underachiever
    • Unrepentant man child
#3 Re: New Scarpa range
December 04, 2010, 02:14:06 pm
The Instinct S are really good too,precise and good on the steep stuff,but soft enough for smearing. Unfortunately,they're falling to bits after only a month and a half. Could just be a duff pair,or maybe Scarpa's build quality's going a bit 5 10.  :-\

weakdave

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +15/-0
  • Technically lacking
#4 Re: New Scarpa range
December 10, 2010, 01:51:27 pm
The Instincts felt MEGAcomfy but can you tell me if they stretch much or do they just mould to your feet? Anybody know if anywhere is knocking them out with a bit of discount as well?

chris j

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 589
  • Karma: +19/-1
#5 Re: New Scarpa range
December 23, 2010, 05:42:26 pm
Liking my Vapour velcros. Had them since August, used mostly on steep limestone (Ansteys Cove) and vertical trad (Sharpnose). Nice and sensitive, very precise, well shaped for my feet so lots of power crammed through my toes which makes them good for standing on tiny edges. Makes my feet hurt after a long session though but that's the price you got to pay. Definite step up from the Evolv Pontas velcro I had before, much less clunky.

Only concern is the rubber may be too soft or thin as they are wearing pretty thin round the toe area already, but they did get a lot of use through the late summer / autumn. Other than that a definite gold star from me.

ShortRound

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 136
  • Karma: +4/-1
#6 Re: New Scarpa range
December 23, 2010, 05:52:27 pm

Just bought a pair of the Instinct lace ups and really happy with them, although I've not had a lot of use out of them yet. The heel is brilliant - the mago and booster heels were too baggy for my liking but the instinct's is perfect.


JimCon

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 7
  • Karma: +2/-0
#7 Re: New Scarpa range
December 23, 2010, 07:34:29 pm
I got some of the Vapour laces earlier in the year - think they are stiffer than the velcros, but overall I'd agree with what others have said: they feel precise and have a great, comfortable fit.

They seem to be lasting fairly well, but that probably has more to do with me *temporarily* shelving them in favour of a nicely broken in pair of anasazi velcros since the grit was called  ::)

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal