Home
Forum
Search
Login
Register
UKBouldering.com
the shizzle
bouldering
beta - bouldering
The Black Hole Start- Roaches
« previous
next »
Print
Pages: [
1
]
The Black Hole Start- Roaches
(Read 1490 times)
joeisidle
addict
Posts: 148
Karma: +6/-0
The Black Hole Start- Roaches
August 07, 2010, 10:16:57 pm
Was just wondering if anyone knew the specifics on the 7a traverse on the Calcutta Buttress at the Roaches; is the small footblock near the start in? And does it start both hands matched in the crack or is it ok to start lh crack rh crimp on the face?
Logged
Eddies
forum hero
Posts: 1245
Karma: +52/-6
#1 Re: The Black Hole Start- Roaches
August 07, 2010, 11:54:49 pm
Start on lil wall right of crack, lay back off crack then start crimpin, a R/heel toe in crack helps loads but can be tricky to release in control.
The damp/mossy foot ledge is in but can be done without and is nicer that way.
Logged
joeisidle
addict
Posts: 148
Karma: +6/-0
#2 Re: The Black Hole Start- Roaches
August 08, 2010, 12:06:25 am
Ta very much, I can see how it would be better without the footblock, but at the same time I can't see how I'd do it if that were the official method
Logged
Eddies
forum hero
Posts: 1245
Karma: +52/-6
#3 Re: The Black Hole Start- Roaches
August 08, 2010, 09:31:10 am
Can be done with your right heel on the starting crimps.
Dirtnap is way better... work your way left after youve ticked that thing!
Logged
mark s
junky
Posts: 862
Karma: +78/-4
#4 Re: The Black Hole Start- Roaches
August 08, 2010, 10:10:00 am
as eddy says start as far to the right as possible,when coming around the nose on limbless limbo keep to the low slopey holds not the high better ones.finish on the flat hold about 7 foot up the hs corner crack
Logged
Print
Pages: [
1
]
« previous
next »
UKBouldering.com
the shizzle
bouldering
beta - bouldering
The Black Hole Start- Roaches
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal