the shizzle > get involved: access, environment, BMC

Carn Vellan and bolts

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TobyD:
I would tentatively say that i agree with bolts back in the steep bit of Carn Vellan, in that they were originally sport routes, it doesn't seem likely that anyone's going to go and lead / solo them anyway and massivley steep slate is a bit of an oddity anyway.

However, i assume noone's suggesting trying to retro all the rest of the (trad) routes at CV (which i would not be down with at all) but... where do we stand on the blue sky lightning / rewind route? It's a claimed trad lead. so retroing it would seem errr retrograde?

granticus:

--- Quote from: Andy W on August 05, 2010, 02:32:00 pm ---I've proposed that the original bolted lines be re equipped and the mess left by the bolt choppers repaired. Nothing more nothing less. I haven't really said anything other than that their should be a debate.

--- End quote ---

 :agree: I'm with you Andy - CV is pretty much an anomaly and as such should be viewed very differently to the traditional coastal crags.  The (blatant alleged) actions of uncle Mark aren't helping the cause.  I guess next time there is an area meet those of us living on the SW peninsular should pull our fingers out, turn up and make our votes count against them city folk.  From what I understand the most recent vote was very close and if more of us 'locals' (the majority of whom agree with you) had turned up it could have swung the other way.  It is a shame that with strong feelings the choppers didn't consider the damage they were inflicting on the rock that they'd claim to be protecting :'(

Yours

M G Edwards

Andy W:

--- Quote from: granticus on August 06, 2010, 07:57:32 am ---
--- Quote from: Andy W on August 05, 2010, 02:32:00 pm ---I've proposed that the original bolted lines be re equipped and the mess left by the bolt choppers repaired. Nothing more nothing less. I haven't really said anything other than that their should be a debate.

--- End quote ---

 :agree: I'm with you Andy - CV is pretty much an anomaly and as such should be viewed very differently to the traditional coastal crags.  The (blatant alleged) actions of uncle Mark aren't helping the cause.  I guess next time there is an area meet those of us living on the SW peninsular should pull our fingers out, turn up and make our votes count against them city folk.  From what I understand the most recent vote was very close and if more of us 'locals' (the majority of whom agree with you) had turned up it could have swung the other way.  It is a shame that with strong feelings the choppers didn't consider the damage they were inflicting on the rock that they'd claim to be protecting :'(

Yours

M G Edwards

--- End quote ---

the next meeting is the beginning of oct,  the cleaning up and re-bolting of CV is to be put on the agenda. The opposition over on UKC has mainly been an emotional opposition and yes I think the best thing to do will be to get as many locals at the meeting as possible.

The minutes and votes from the last meeting can be read here   

 https://www.thebmc.co.uk/old_db/areacom/minutes/SWMn0505X.pdf

cheers

Jaspersharpe:
I'm all in favour of people with absolutely no connection to the crag in question having the casting vote. After all, as Medwards says, you locals can't be trusted. You'll be finding chipped holds on his "E10" next, disgraceful.

Stu Littlefair:
I've always supported this venue as a sport route, but don't hold out too much hope of progress on this issue. The problem in my mind is that there's no chance of local climbers viewing the establishment of Carn Vellan as an issue in isolation. The climbers who took the bolts out originally have for too long intimately connected the bolting of Carn Vellan with the actions of Mark and Rowland Edwards and simply can't dissociate the two issues any more. When you add this to the general strong feeling against bolts in Cornwall anyway I can't help feel that, even if a BMC area meeting gave it's blessing to such action, the bolts would be quickly vandalised again.



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