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The Black Hole Start- Roaches (Read 1420 times)

joeisidle

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The Black Hole Start- Roaches
August 07, 2010, 10:16:57 pm
Was just wondering if anyone knew the specifics on the 7a traverse on the Calcutta Buttress at the Roaches; is the small footblock near the start in? And does it start both hands matched in the crack or is it ok to start lh crack rh crimp on the face?

Eddies

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#1 Re: The Black Hole Start- Roaches
August 07, 2010, 11:54:49 pm
Start on lil wall right of crack, lay back off crack then start crimpin, a R/heel toe in crack helps loads but can be tricky to release in control.
The damp/mossy foot ledge is in but can be done without and is nicer that way.

joeisidle

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#2 Re: The Black Hole Start- Roaches
August 08, 2010, 12:06:25 am
Ta very much, I can see how it would be better without the footblock, but at the same time I can't see how I'd do it if that were the official method  :-[

Eddies

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#3 Re: The Black Hole Start- Roaches
August 08, 2010, 09:31:10 am
Can be done with your right heel on the starting crimps.
Dirtnap is way better... work your way left after youve ticked that thing!

mark s

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#4 Re: The Black Hole Start- Roaches
August 08, 2010, 10:10:00 am
as eddy says start as far to the right as possible,when coming around the nose on limbless limbo keep to the low slopey holds not the high better ones.finish on the flat hold about 7 foot up the hs corner crack

 

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