[Jim]

Just a quick one, I'm having trouble hanging the sloper when I put my foot on. Do you guys crimp it or open hand it?
Also any other beta for this problem welcome
Cheers

[dave]

i've been trying it openhanding the slope, but i could probably crimp the hint of an edge where you get the left hand. still gonna be nails i recon.

[Johnny Brown]

only a dick would crimp a sloper. just hang the frickin thing. I find it easier to keep right foot on back for match, only getting left foot on lip once matched. You want left hand at left end, then piano right hand into pebbles n wee dishes in middle . Catching lip is crux. Don't try to go off first bit, go again to sloper 6 inches up and left, then swap feet and pull thru.
Enuff for ya??

[dave]

I find it easier to keep right foot on back for match, only getting left foot on lip once matched.

that sounds like a reet bo bit of beyda - i'll try that next time fo' sho'!

[Jim]

Bit of confusion, I actually meant blind date (doh!), I'm far to punterish to even think about doing blind fig although dave you were after some beta for blind fig a bit ago.
I always seem to grease off the sloper even in the coldest conditions, am I just a sweat monkey?

[dave]

when you get the blind date sloper theres like a divot hole that takes a middle finger nicely - get that and you'll be reet.

[Jim]

cheers dave

[cofe]

when you get the blind date sloper theres like a divot hole that takes a middle finger nicely - get that and you'll be reet.

index finger i rate...

wear an old rock shoe on your right foot n'all - as you don't us the right foot you won't notice

you'll see why after a session on it........... :wink:

[Jim]

made some progress on this today (blind date). Got left foot on proper and actually pulled up to get the next hold and was so suprised I was still on, I completely missed the hold and fell off . It then started raining so couldn't get back on for another go .
Realised why I couldn't do this before was cos I didn't have my right foot on the back when getting left on and so was swinging about.
Can't wait for rain to stop. Sunday looks like it might be ok but the met office are lying barstewards

[Jim]

quick question as I'm very close to this now. I presume everyone does the same thing but when you go again fom the sloper with your left hand do you go static or do you pop?
I very nearly static'd it t'other day, bransby poped for it and with his tiny fingers it was easy for him to hit the small hold but for me with big sausages its very hard to get me fingers in properly as I've only been able to hold it once (started off on the sloper for LH tho so I'm not claiming it yet)
Cheers

[fatboySlimfast]

its a fricking pop the first time, and as youve found out a lot of fumbling around the area goes on before you hold it. Word of warning, the first time i latched the hold i was so suprised i promtly fell off :roll:

[dave]

think i used to stab for it (as you say hard with big fingers) but thesedays its more static, but thats as you get stronger.  beware the moves after that are not easy!

[Johnny Brown]

I still have to stab for it. Its a fookin miserable move - you get two hits of pain, first you stub yer fingers, then you have to pull on the thing. Blind fig is a much nicer prob.

[Jim]

Word of warning, the first time i latched the hold i was so suprised i promtly fell off :roll:

I've done that on a few probs, struggling to remember which ones tho.
I keep either stabbing too low (less painfull) or too high (bashing fingernails against the roof - v painfull)
Recon I just need to get a little bit stronger and get on it fresh and I should be able to static it

[Johnny Brown]

Jim wrote:

I just need to get a little bit stronger and get a bit fresh wid it and I should be able to static it no problem man I'm fookin well strong

you bin trainin or summat?

[Jim]

not really but yur right. If only I weighed 3 stone less, everything would be a path  :D

[Bubba]

Yeah, same here - but I'm just training with a weightbelt  :wink:

[Pie Boy]

hey!

was trying this problem by...

RH: Sloper/Crimp on Lip
LH: Up to square pebble thing
LF: Small edge under the lip on the left.
*Slap for right hand slot with LH*

Is this completly wrong? the slopers up and left didnt feel very helpful so i was missing these out.

HELP!

[dave]

i've never heard of such a sequence, but if it works, go for it.

[Pie Boy]

i've never heard of such a sequence

lol, i get that a lot.

[Jim]

RH crimp, pull on, LH sloper, LF on hold on lip. pull weight onto LF, jab LH into tiny slot under next roof, move more over LF, RH into next slot under roof(via square pebble if desired), both feet on lip, LH blind feel over next roof for hold, rock onto next roof & glory.
Must do this problem this year, its really fuckin annoying me

[Control freak]

If I had a pound for every time I said that... Its just one of those really annoying problems, I can get close but can I latch the hold. Can I fook - and everyone else sems to piss it. You just wait - when I get back to the UK I'll be strong as fook and flash it...

[Jim]

flash it...

quality, you'd better keep it to yourself tho....

[a dense loner]

I can get close but can I latch the hold. when I get back to the UK I'll be strong as fook and flash it...

this will be one of them retro-flashes then eh :wink: