[Dhanny]

I had a go at this yesterday, trying a number ways... Im 6ft 2 and felt a bit bunched on some moves :S, 7c innit?

any knowledge would be greatly received. cheers, dan

[account_inactive]

It has rules.  Speak to the likes of Ben P etc.  From what I remember you have to campus the start and not use heels for the 7c tick.  To be fair I think it's 7c whatever you do

[dave]

there was a thread about this a while back. I'm not convinced the campus start is a rule, unless you take everything you see on VHS as gospel. Makes no real odds to the difficulty either way.

[Andy B]

Makes no real odds to the difficulty either way.

Have you done the problem both ways?

[dave]

Of course.

[Andy B]

It wasn't that obvious given your aversion to eliminate sequences on other problems.

but anyway, of course campusing is harder than using the heel-toe, or just the toe.

[dave]

I did it cos I was stuck for something to do one day and I suspected it didn't make much difference difficulty wise, less bunched up first move for a start.

[Paul B]

I did it cos I was stuck for something to do one day and I suspected it didn't make much difference difficulty wise, less bunched up first move for a start.

I expect that doesn't apply to a very wide demographic whereas a lack of feet might. Unless someones footwork is so bad, having no feet doesn't matter?

[Dhanny]

do you campus left hand up first and then bodge the left toe on for the "vhs" tick? (i haven't seen one summer  ..where can you get it!?!)

i also tried the same but then wacking in a right heel.. seemed easier to get the right hand crimp but harder to move up to the next hold this way.

Also i presume there is a low start?

[saltbeef]

i haven't seen one summer 

you haven't lived

[dobbin]

There is also a low start - its very often wet though.

Taken from the gospel according to Welford :

campus start, no heels, toes and certainly not on that nubbin thing out right.
Left foot out to polished foot thing, right comes in to match box tooth thing
Right go again to sloper at top
** now this is where it differs **
left doesnt go to the thing just above the sloper - it goes way out left to some rat crimp thing
up through bulge.

Harris - are you watching? does this make sense? moreover - is it right?

Apparently going to the reasonable hold above the rh sloper is a jason myers problem. Sean went left first. You definately had to campus the start as well.

[dave]

those boys must have been on crack back in the day.

[benpritch]

There is also a low start - its very often wet though.

Taken from the gospel according to Welford :

campus start, no heels, toes and certainly not on that nubbin thing out right.
Left foot out to polished foot thing, right comes in to match box tooth thing
Right go again to sloper at top
** now this is where it differs **
left doesnt go to the thing just above the sloper - it goes way out left to some rat crimp thing
up through bulge.

Harris - are you watching? does this make sense? moreover - is it right?

Apparently going to the reasonable hold above the rh sloper is a jason myers problem. Sean went left first. You definately had to campus the start as well.

this is the original sequence (given 7b back then). i think it is rarely climbed like this. more usual to get slope dish with rh then grab thing above it with left and stand / bridge up to jug with lh.

definitely no heels/toes etc because of tradition,  they weren't invented/allowed in those days.

[Jaspersharpe]

There are a load of different ways to do it. I think like Ben says, provided you don't use any sort of heel/toe faggo......er techniques then it's ok. Probably varies from bottom end to top end 7C depending on how foolish and old skool a sequence you use.

[dave]

so you can't use heels OR toes?


 

So its instep or shins only. back around everyone.

[benpritch]

so you can't use heels OR toes?


 

So its instep or shins only. back around everyone.

haha, heel + toe combos i meant, or heels on their own for that matter.

[Richie Crouch]

Are dragons/teams/solutions all on the banned footwear list too?

Keen to get here with a rules book and get shut down.

[GCW]

You are only allowed the tick if you do the same move several times in slo-mo with some wierd bleepy music playing.  If you must use use feet, get some Lasers or those green slipper things (Ninjas?).

[Jaspersharpe]

No green Arsolo runouts, no tick.

[dave]

No bouldering mat either, no superchalk, no lapis brushes. No power steering on your car cos it means you'll arrive at the crag fresher than they did back in the day. You're also not allowed to have trained at any indoor walls that opened post 1994 - asically the poly wall or the foundry. Luckily they haven't changed the holds on the wave since opening or that's be "out" too.

[Eddies]

Is the name Crag-X some kind of ironic piss-take!?
Crag-Tick my arse

[The Sausage]

Didn't the move out left to the wee crimp become obselete because it meant rocking back on one of the handholds, which possibly broke a bit? I think Ben P told me this at some point, but I could be mistaken.

I've done the campus way, and the low start way - much of a muchness difficulty-wise. Personally, the low start - (feet on back wall), out with right to rail, swing right toe onto square block, match rail, left hand up to slopey crimp...

...then the good bit...

...swing left toes through to smeary shite out left, 'match' on the little crimp then continue straight upwards - is the second best bit of climbing at the crag, and therefore the country. The bit where you swing the left toe through and get the point of balance to match is totally brilliant.