[shark]

1,000th post on power club board 

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.1-3/4

M.
T.(Too wet for Cornice). Eve. Foundry with Ben. Bouldering Wave and Board
W.Eve. Foundry with Ben & Tom. Bouldering Wave and Board
T.Eve. 2 evening meals and wine - whoops
F.Eve. Foundry. Bouldering Wave and Board
S.BMC talent day for Tom - hanging around at MCC avoiding food.
S.Cornice. Conditions started OK but hot and humid. Better warm-up this time and felt stronger dogging up the route to put the draws in. 3 good redpoints to rail. Led rail to top on dogging go and last go.

With the rainy weather and advice decided to stay away from the Cornice and felt better for it. Was going to experiment with not eating on Saturday (Glycogen dump*) but my wife was so appalled I ate in the evening. Didnt mind too much as it obviously wasnt going to be optimal conditions on Sunday and there was Ben & Jerry's on the table. Feel a lot more psyched for the route. Will take this week as it comes but plan on doing some strength training today. Weight currently at year low.

* http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/06/glycogen-dumping-and-why-it-probably.html

[uptown]

I'll get in early -
monday to sunday - zilch climbing training and stretching, yet I have managed to eat plenty of pasties and drink so much vino that Jasper would be very proud of me.
I'll put my boots on later this week to see what the damge is. 

[chris05]

M: 50l swim (crawl), 4m run & core (300 moves)
T: pull-ups (70), press-ups (140), weights for arms & core (300)
W: 40l swim (crawl), 4m run & core (300)
T: rest
F: 40l swim (crawl), 4m run & core (300)
S: bouldering churnet
S: 5.6m run & core (300)

Just as the fingers were improving I've gone and re-injured my middle finger A2, hopefully it wont set me back too long but going to rest it properly this time. On the up side the elbows are feeling better than they have for a year or more. Doing a fair amount of fitness work at the moment to avoid frustration at not being able to climb and get fit for surf trip in october. I think when I'm finally free of injury I will see some good improvements.

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7c, 7B, E5.
Goal for July - Bad Bad Boy (LPT), Foil/Quasar/Stroll On in a day (pass).
Goal for July/August - One of: Mussel Beach/Parasite/Statement (LPT). Right Wall & Resurrection back to back.

m. went to cave for a quick session, then belayed Neil as he O/S'd Si's old proj. Had a play on it, good route, bouldery.
t. nowt.
w. Bouldering in cave, easy session, not working anything at the mo.
t. LPT, sent Bad Bad Boy first redppoint, YYFY. Felt super good, very solid.
f. nowt
s. UPT, Rebolted Contusion lower-off, argument with the bell-end who runs the Brennin, O/S'd a bunch of really good 6c+'s in the Testament area.
s. Rebolted Drip Drip Drip, Direct, Storm Warning, Wet Dreams. All good routes, Drip Drip Drip especially good.

A great week salvaged from between the storms. Next step is an 8a, will see which one inspires me this week.

[shark]

t. LPT, sent Bad Bad Boy first redppoint, YYFY. Felt super good, very solid.

 

Desperate route. Nice work.

[GCW]

Right, due to getting fat I shall join in for the moment.
Recently hit 88.7kg, so a new regime is in place- minimal alcohol   

Short term goals- Climb 10 font 7s in Bleau (August trip)- a bit ambitious maybe.
Medium Term goals- Climb font 7c in 2010.  Lose (almost) a stone initially (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!

M-  Ran up Winter Hill.  7.2km, 230m ascent, 45:10.
T-  West View for 2 hours.  Did most stuff of V5 and below.  Felt pretty weak really.
W-  Cadshaw (short) run.  6.4km, 130m ascent, 38:05.
T-  Session on Nik's Wall of Burl.  Was rubbish, but managed a few moves I initially found hard.  Footwork is shit.  1xG+T and 2 glasses red wine
F-  Boss' Graduation, so not much activity.  2.5 pints Guinness early on, then start night shifts
S-  Winter Hill again with RGinns, 48:23 (I'll blame him as he had a stitch).
S-  Tired from nights.  Cadshaw run.  7.7km, 130m ascent, 41:13


Weigh in just now:  84.8kg, but I'll await a Monday morning weigh in trend rather than a one off.
In pre- Font avoiding injury mode now, so nothing significant for the next couple of weeks I guess.

[JamesD]

got back from holiday Monday, recovery tuesday, went back to a mental week of work until saturday, whereby I decided to drown my sorrows after losing out on quite a big job that I was looking forward to, had absolutely no motivation to train or even leave the house after this.
Still things are looking more positive today, not the most inspirational power club entry, but I thought it was better than bullshitting by saying I had something even resembling a productive weeks worth of training 

[Three Nine]

STG: be strong, climb something hard
MTG: redpoint lots of 8as/onsight lots of 7cs in Europe
LTG: Tuppence 2011

M active rest - did about 5 6as to pass the time at Castle Inn quarry
T Bouldering Cave/Box - did a dubious 7B link, then did Pill Box Original
W did Parisella's Original and some other thing, then a couple of 7a+ routes on Mayfair
T rest. cardio 30mins run.
F am: power 45 1.5 hours
S Anstey's, failed on various things, getting a bit warm
S Pottering in Devon - a bit of easy soloing then a gentle boulder circuit

[Andy F]

Goals - Quick ticks in the mid - high 7's, GA, COTC, GBH.

Mon - 100 pull-ups, various grips
Tues - Repeaters, 45 mins
Wed - Pull ups/repeaters 1 hr
Thurs-Sat - Family
Sun - Kilnsey. Usual warm-up. Put clips in The Jekyll. First RP messed up 2nd to last clip and powered out going for good hold above. 2nd RP no mistakes. First tougher tick since the little fella came along, good to feel the fitness returning.

I'm away next weekend so won't have anything to post. Back on GA next, if it's dry...

[roddersm]

STG Goals(2010):

Trad: Onsight several routes E1-E3.
Boulder: Work some problems at Fairhead 7a+-7c+. Split arete 6b+/E4.
sport: Onsight at least f7a in Verdon or Buoux.

LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: o/s 7b. rp 7c.
Boulder: At least 7C .

Mon  Afternoon: Run 55 min. Evening: Climbing wall session 1 hrs 40 min bouldering and stamina circuits.
Tue   Run 43 min
Wed  Rest. Meal with future in laws. Bummer.
Thur  Climbing wall session. Bouldering 2 hrs. 5*10 fingerboard pullups.
Fri     Rest. Tired.
Sat   Short trad session. 2nd HS, Lead HVS and E1. 7/8 laps on an E4/E5 on top rope. Feel good physically but motivation low.
Sun  Forecast not great and tired from sat so go bouldering. Mistake as it turned out to be hot and humid. Did a 5c and tried a 7a before injuring my shoulder. Went home. Bollocks.
 
Glad to get outside again but pissed off with this showery weather. Can't seem to get any of my goals ticked at the minute and motivation is waning. Felt tired this week in the wall after a few heavy (for me) training weeks. Have a few family things coming up so next couple of weeks will be less intense and need a few days rest to let my shoulder heal. Hopefully will get some things ticked at my local crags in next 2 weeks followed by 3/4 weeks of hard training before heading to the verdon/buoux. Not good though and need to get my arse in gear.

[webbo]

Mon. wall good session repeated everything i've done first go.finger split across skin on first joint to wards the end.
Tue. nothing
Wed. nothing resting skin.
Thu.wall new problems.struggling at first then came good.probably started pulling hard too soon.
Fri. nothing.
Sat.wall spent ages trying a move with no success.them repeated everything from thurs.out on bike 1hr 10 mins including 8 x 5 min on 1 min off.windy as hell.
Sun. out on bike 3 hours flat battered by the wind.

Need to get some goals and lose weight.11 st 11lbs this morning.diet starts today.

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 62kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.
New STG: Keep to training plan in order to be ready for Kalymnos (12 weeks and counting)

M: a.m - Strength (hyp) session, 1 hour.
T: Rest Day
W: a.m - Strength session, 1 hour. p.m - Bouldering at Ingleton, good session.
T: Rest Day (diy)
F: p.m. Strength session - 45 mins.
S: Full day of building work - knackering!
S: a.m. Depot - good session, managed to flash a couple of V5/V6's, flashed a fr6c+ through the routes roof and did a massive volume of V3-V5's.  P.m. - more building work.

Forgotten how hard it is to get up early to fit in the strength sessions! Planning to do hypertrophy work for 5 weeks - my chosen exercise is 4 x 25-30sec hangs (2 handed) at 80-85% of max. Repeat several times for with differing holds and grips with 2 mins rest between hangs and 5 mins between sets. Comments welcome  regarding whether that sounds like an effective routine...

[nik at work]

8B, 8b+ (this has gone up because the route I want to do is 8b+, and also if your going to fail to achieve your goals they might as well be a bit harder)

M - Nothing
T - Nothing
W - Nothing
T - Board session with G, short and not impressive. Got a valuable lesson in silky footwork from the G-beast.
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - Nothing

It's still a mystery to me why I'm not a crushing beast of monsterness...

[andybfreeman]

Aims - as before

M - routes indoors, mileage session, felt ok

rest of week = nowt. A mix of work commitments duting the week then an ear infection at the weekend meant my week was a write off

Weight up to 68.5kg after a week of doing virtually nothing! need to get back to training/climbing this week before i get really fat

[Nibile]

here we go.
mon - weights, full session. good.
tue - top roping session, from 7b to 7c+. very good vibes.
wed - rest.
thu - rest.
fri - rest.
sat - top roping session. 7b, 7c+, 8a. (done, done, not done). good good vibes.
sun - beastmaker. 10x6. lots of volume, mainly did pull ups and lock offs instead of simple deadhangs. good.

comments.
the elbow is still not completely recovered, sadly, but it allows me to climb and to train almost at 100%. the thing with the rope is being fun, I go there and give everything a go, when I find a sequence too strange or technical I power it out. I also tried a 30 meters long 8a, but that was really too much...
I noticed improvements on the beast. last week the tests were encouraging.
I rested three days because I was hoping to climb in the Dolomites in the weekend, but as usual an argument with the other half made this impossible.
keep the faith.

[Three Nine]

Aims - as before

M - routes indoors, mileage session, felt ok

rest of week = nowt. A mix of work commitments duting the week then an ear infection at the weekend meant my week was a write off

Weight up to 68.5kg after a week of doing virtually nothing! need to get back to training/climbing this week before i get really fat

Board wed eve? Weather looks shite so we wont even feel dirty.

[andybfreeman]

Board wed eve? Weather looks shite so we wont even feel dirty.

Sounds good, but i might be busy on Wed but not sure yet, you free Thursday as well?

[chillax]

STG: E3
MTG: E4
LLTG: E7

Mon: Trip out to owey island off the coast of Donegal. Put up a new E1/2 onsight which was quite satisfying. Brief potter about at the wall in Derry.
Tues: zip
Wed: Beastmaker then first experience of surfing. Great fun! Will get more into it when I can afford a board.
Thurs: squat
Fri: Gym. Fairly intense, felt properly wrecked after.
Sat: Easy soloing and traversing at Ramore. Did a nice long highball traverse that would probably be worth HVS if it was another couple of metres off the deck. Good fun.
Sun: Beastmaker

Feels like onsight E3 is getting closer. I'll try and make it out to the head this week and hop on one of the easier ones to see how things are going.

[duncan]

STG: E3 (Dreadnought) by the end of the sumer
MTG: E5 by June 2011

M - Shoulder stability stuff
T - Shoulder stability stuff
W - Shoulder stability stuff
T - 20 mins easy ARCing
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - Portland low 6s sport mileage.  Felt completely thrashed, but this was first time on real rock for 6 weeks.  Sore bits not too sore, so onwards and upwards...

[Luthor]

Quiet week - routes at Foundry Tuesday then away Thurs until today at Latitude festival. Would like to say I feel rested...

[cmerch]

Goals: Have fun climbing!
Mon: Nothing
Tues: Rock Rings
Wed: Nothing
Thurs: Climb at Foster Falls, easy routes; 3 mile run
Fri: climb at Foster's; 3 mile run
Sat: Nothing
Sun: 4 mile run
Very slack week, foot hurt and overall bad attitude. Felt better going for run. Getting motivated for trip to North Carolina in Aug.

[Charles]

Wednesday: followed slab-master butterworthtom  up 3-pitch thin face nasty; various bouldering later

How is the skinny one? Haven't heard from him since he's been over there!

[Charles]

STG - Continue weight loss (goal = 154lbs)  > Onsight F7a > Improve Power Endurance
MTG - Get proper fit for Mallorca in September > Onsight F7b (Waikiki or Phantomas)
LTG - F8a

Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Rest
Wednesday - Stamina. Epic session. 40 pitches. Two peak sets of pyramid.
Thurday - Rest
Friday - Stamina. Only way to increase intensity was to go back to beginning but at higher grades. So this set = one pyramid, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6a+, 6a. (all up, down, up w/10 mins rest).
Saturday - bouldered at Depot. Weak. Did F7a circuit.
Sunday - Fingerboard. Run.

Good week. Stamina phase is finished. Going into a power endurance phase with one stamina session a week to keep it topped up. Don't want to lose the gains I've made. According to my training diary I really struggled to complete the same stamina session I did on Friday after my mallorca trip last year. This means I'm fitter now (7 weeks before trip) than I was after I'd been climbing there for a week!

[andy popp]

Still can't climb.

Mon: nothing
Tues: good session of weighted pull-ups, increase max weights and sets again.
Wed: much better session on fingerboard
Thurs: swim 25x25m, another improvement on last week, leg feels better.
Fri-Sat: Paris for date
Sun: take daughter swimming, fit in a few lengths.

Overall, enough to feel I'm not turning into a complete pile of mush whilst injured.

Hi Curt, good to see you keeping the faith.

[nai]

stg - improve PE, onsight 7a.
mtg, further improve PE, RP 7c.
ltgs - 7C+, 8a, E4
 
M - A frustrating wet day at home with kids and inlaws, took myself away to do some pullups - 2,4,6,8,10,10,8,6,4,2, minute rest and pressups between sets.  Shouldn't have bothered.
T - Cornice, onsighted Up the River... (6c+), which is a PB.  Scraped up Whose Line....(7a+) 1st redpoint after giving up too easily on the OS attempt.
W - Poor night's sleep with youngest upset about something, felt shattered and very, very sore.
T - couple of hours pottering at Rubicon, had no snap, couldn't repeat problems I can usually do ok.  Traversed a lot.
F - Cornice, RP'd Martial Music (7a) after failing two moves from OSing previously.  Tried Big Zipper (7a+), OS ended where it gets harder and steeper and so did a RP attempt, but I did screw part of it up having not really learned the sequence on OS.
S - nowt.
S - expirimental PErepeater training, 30 low intensity hangs 7on - 3off over 5 minutes, rest 3.  Repeat 4 times.  Could be a half decent quicky workout with some more experimentation

  week, happy with the improved OS grade but slightly disappointed with Friday's session and not getting on anything harder.

[Barratt]

STG: Recovery
LTG: 7b

Mon: Rest
Tues: Rehab and weights set
Wed: Core and home board
Thur: Bouldering at Matrix, sore finger
Fri: Badminton with the misus
Sat: Rest
Sun: Bouldering @ works, very hungover
Mon: Bouldering @ Sean's roof and Raven Tor.

Another injury to add to the mix. Pulled something near bottom of ribs whilst at RT on Monday. So now its shoulder, finger and core that are all knackered! Still, could be worst...

[Dr T]

vSTG:Get back to speed after the Flu
STG: Get strong again (and lose weight)
LTG: Font early next year - be strong enough to kinda keep pace with Neil - collect a good handful of 7a to c problems along the way

(Sat: 1 hour on the 45 deg board)
(Sun: 1 hour on the 45 deg board - weighed in at 79 kg)
Mon: 1 hour on the 45 deg board
Tues: 45mins stretching, 1 hour jog
Wed: 30 mins stretching then FLU
Thur: FLU
Fri: Drove to Lincolnshire to visit the in-laws (with FLU)
Sat: In-laws (wiped out)
Sun: In-laws (feeling better)
(Mon: Drove back from the Flatlands)
(Tues: weighed in at 76.9kg -3 hour session on school wall - started light then built up to about 6c, felt physically ok but stamina-wise week - depending on condition of skin might beastmaker later)

[Falling Down]

M - 30 minute trail/hill run + 1 hour P/E 25kg DB & Core routine
W - Routes at Embankment. Warmed up on Prawnography (6c) & dogged then had a redpoint go at Barracuda Bass Sound 7a+ powerful & tricky then the heavens opened.
T - 45 minute hill/trail run

F, S, S - Nowt. Family commitments, poor weather, wedding party, and knackeredness prevailed having been to Aberdeen and London during the week for work and working 'til 10pm Friday.

Felt pretty good Wednesday evening and I reckon I would've got BBS next go had it not absolutely peed it down.  Clear weekend this one coming so hopeful for some trad 'n sport.

New STG:Redpoint 7b End of August. Lead E3.
MTG’s (End 2010) – Redpoint 7b+ (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine) & Onsight E5 (Right Wall or White Wall or Positron)
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a, Onsight E6

[SA Chris]

STG - get some fitness back
MTG get down to 13 1/2 stone again
LTG - get soem climbing fitness back

M- Went swimming with R & K, did about 5 length, lame.
T- Walked to work and back - 1 hr
W- Walked to work and back - 1 hr
T - Walked to work and back - 1 hr
F - Walked to work and back - 1 hr
S- Nowt
S - Nowt

Weight = 14st 2 1/4, back up two pounds on previous week. Arse.

[petejh]

 

Desperate route. Nice work.

Cheers Mr Shark! My first 7c, but a classic line at any grade. Feels good. 
Ever done Parasite or Mussel Beach? Not been able to check them out properly yet because of the weather.

[shark]

Cheers Mr Shark! My first 7c, but a classic line at any grade. Feels good. 
Ever done Parasite or Mussel Beach? Not been able to check them out properly yet because of the weather.

Unfinished business for me - I put a lot of time into it in the past and reckon its 7c+. Up to you but in your shoes I would skip the fillers-in and get on Statement.

[Ru]

M: Work
T: Work
W: Went to Seans Roof in the evening. I wasn't on fire.
T: Can't remember. Oh, yes, work
F: No climbing at any rate
S: Tricked by my other half into going to Ikea. I still can't believe it.
S: Rubicon. No idea why we went here. Warm, muggy, shit. Failed on everything.

[lagerstarfish]

Ru,

[Ru]

S: Rubicon. No idea why we went here. Warm, muggy, shit. Failed on everything.

Actually I do know why we went here, we didn't fancy mud-skiing down to the cornice.

Ikea was a mistake. I hate the place. A trip there never ends well as I behave like a sulky 12 year old all the way round.

[Doylo]

As i'm currently in training mode gonna wade in to find some more inspiration:

STG: Improve Strength/PE
MTG: Diamond Proj
LTG: Be stronger/fitter next year (8b+/c)

M - Good sesh down Pidgeons Cave with Pete R. Tried Neil Carsons 8a Stark (only route down there with safe bolts). Brilliant PE route but felt hard hard hard.  Good wake up call. Robins pathed (obviously).
T - Old mans crag (with old man).  Bit of cleaning stuff etc.. Tried my bolted project. Holds are too small, might give this one away. 
W - Mill, very weak.
T- Rest
F - Mill, bouldering to start (might aswell) then tried my 40 move Diamond replica (although in reality its probably easier), got pretty close. Love that feeling of not being able to hold onto easyish moves, similar sensation to my proj last year so hopefully will do me some good.  Dismayed with Patxi doing 2000 moves on a steep board in Progression.
S - Active rest. Bramble Butress V-diff, Tremadog with the missus. Ended up having to downclimb some of it to retrieve Friends that she couldn't release. I did show her how to do it!!!!
S - Mill again. Still weak but circuit combinations going well.  Not as good on long one but better at lapping 7b+.  Managed the 8a one that i set a while ago. Not really long enough to do that much good for PE but a confidence boost after watching Caff and Pete lapping it.

Upping the ante in the Mill was good, hopefully if i keep to the plan i'll have a happy ending!

[Monolith]

Need to tighten my game plan up too...

STG's: Get back moving after months of bare activity. Lots of route volume to induce muscles.
MTG's: Get boulder project done in Sep/Oct when cooler temps.
LTGS: Was going to write something like Mecca but just watched a video of Andy Harris on it falling at end. Realised he's on home turf. Hmmm. Something have to work hard for will come to mind in time I'm sure.


Mon - Rest. Tried to think of some additional goals.
Tue - Rest. Continued thinking. Slightly harder this time.
Weds - Fingerboard. Simulated clipping and maximal timed hangs.
Thurs - Rest. Filled out worlds biggest scholarship application. Very boring.
Fri - Fingerboard. Small rung time to get used to it again. Powerpulls too.
Sat - Rest.
Sun - Went to Llanddulas with the Don. Had ace time and both of us had mild whitey on warmups in new sector (for us). Got on Mudjekeewis. Don did it promptly and I realised it would be fine if I can just increase my lactic threshold. Very happy.


A nice week all in all. Saw girlfriend a lot and found a bizzare level of psyche for routes. Getting used to it slowly.
Devised a simulated clipping routine on the fingerboard since taking one hand off to clip seems to increase the pump twentyfold. This has usually been the prevailing factor for putting me off routes. Keen to work past this.

I suppose Mudjekeewis is a MTG but depends on time needed to develop PE. Be nice if it became an STG but don't care, love the Dulas!

Not sure how long 'long term' is? I'd really like in ten years to have some hard tick to be proud. Very motivated to see certain forum members holding down very reputable professions as well as climbing hard.

[Richie Crouch]

STG: In Hell
MTG: Octopussy, Cote De Seshuan, Astronautfieber
LTG: Halfway House, Clyde & T Crack, sport 8a

Mon: Rest
Tue: Cave, good session regaining some boulder fitness repeating easy stuff, couple redpoints on In Hell to move before last pocket, go on Cave life with feet missing left wall and grease off.
Wed: Rest
Thu: Rest & antagonist elbow exercises
Fri: Indoor session, felt a bit crap and failed on a V5/6 on step wall
Sat: Rest & antagonist elbow exercises
Sun: Indoor session, felt much better and did everything first try on Step wall

Bit of a gently breaking back into bouldering this week after having played on some sport routes the last 3 weeks to let my left arm recover and pain to leave the body.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Hard F7b+, Easy F7c, F8a before 2014.

M: Morning Yoga - Failed to do weights, 10 reps both arms @ 14kg - give up and go to bed...
T: Bouldering @ The Works - New reds, nice!
W: Morning yoga - Evening weights, 4 x 10 reps both arms @ 14 kg, frenchies, 100 pressups, 100 sits, leg raises... Bushed!
T: PE session @ The works - Green F6c 4 x back to back - 10 mins rest and repeat 4 times. managed 11 full circuits out of 16... Utterly destroyed...
F: Cant quite hold a pen...
S: Easy bouldering @ Birchins...
S: Drive to Cornwall.

Good week.. Put the hours in. Gotta keep it up but away next week in Bude so will probably just do yoga and surf unless this weather clears...

:D

[Richie Crouch]

My memory is terrible. I actually went to Woodwell on Saturday and climbed a bit, managed a couple old nemesi' from years ago and then got repeatedly shut down on the last couple moves on not bad dave after finding the steep bit ok. I think from the polished ledge it is a bit harsh for 6a?!

[Monolith]

Richie, I just love the fact that T Crack is still a LTG!? You need to take a drive over there as soon as rain subsides and sort that out.

[JohnM]

Fr 8a shouldn't be a LTG either Rich.  A few sessions on a bouldery PE 8a should see that goal ticked!