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Non-Quality Chuffing Videos (Read 284201 times)

reeve

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#675 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 11, 2018, 12:31:40 pm
Thanks Reeve, hope you’re well dude. A good one to try and onsight or flash for you, the only dangerous move being the 6a rock up to the gear which you wouldn’t want to fire off. The music is ‘Woozy with Cider’ by James Yorkston, there’s an ep with some remixes of it, this was the original but I like the Jon Hopkins one too.

Yes I'm well thanks Dan, and yourself? Ah nice found it on Spotify (not cool enough for EPs here obvs). Let me know if you're stuck for a partner for any similar obscure grit over winter

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#676 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 11, 2018, 07:08:18 pm
I’m not to bad thanks Reeve, currently managing / trying to avoid the circus that is climbing today 😬 should be able to get out Saturdays over winter. I’m on messenger so will ping you a message. Re the EP thing, it’s the wrong way round, you’re obvs to cool for such things over there.

jwi

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#677 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 13, 2018, 10:32:26 pm
24th ascent, or so, of Action Directe.




SA Chris

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#678 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 11:28:32 am
Really 24th? Becoming a trade route.

36chambers

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#679 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 12:49:42 pm
Really 24th? Becoming a trade route.

it's had at least one ascent every other year since 2000, must be soft.

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#680 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 01:04:00 pm
Downgrade time!

gme

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#681 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 01:08:28 pm
8c+/9a like hubble. Always was and always should be. I believe there are easier sequences as well now.

gme

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#682 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 01:08:58 pm
And Hubble should be 8c+

Doylo

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#683 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 01:34:03 pm
Wonder if it would still have had 24 ascents if it was graded 8c+/9a  :-\

Ally Smith

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#684 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 02:31:56 pm
Still no Brits have climbed Action Directe though!  ;)

gme

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#685 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 04:48:01 pm
Can we reinstate our old grading scale after the 29th of march. And ban knee bars and pastel coloured clothes.

Doylo

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#686 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 04:57:31 pm
Still no Brits have climbed Action Directe though!  ;)

I thought there was a film about one doing it?

Can we reinstate our old grading scale after the 29th of march. And ban knee bars and pastel coloured clothes.
You mean kick out Barrows and Adam lincoln?

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#687 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 05:54:59 pm
You mean the Pantomime Dame doing it?

Oh no he didn't! Oh yes he did!

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#688 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 07:42:19 pm
Thing is when Rich Simpson did / didn’t do Hubble and Action Direct it was pretty ‘newsworthy’ but now Hubble and to some extent Action Direct and the first 9a debate? have been banged on about seemingly incessantly for the last 18 years both the routes, the grade debate and subsequent ascents have achieved a status of eye rolling tedium.

Doylo

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#689 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 08:03:16 pm
Better than debating Brexit  ;)

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#690 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 08:08:38 pm
Pretty much anything beats talking about that. I reckon Rich did it cos he was a beast etc etc and Hubble is at least 9a must be cos Sean Mcoll couldn’t do it even with a knee scum and he’s not shit or is he?

Doylo

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#691 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 14, 2018, 09:17:41 pm
He’s a bit of a gimp though.

You seem a bit disillusioned old boy  :lol:

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#692 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 15, 2018, 06:05:47 am
Haha possibly, even Shark’s eternal battle with The Oak which was previously inspiring seems to be going on a bit these days (cmon Simon for gods sake 😉)

Seriously tho, there’s got to be a point where we all acknowledge while Hubble was and is a great achievement for it’s time (now I’m joining in ugh) a summer ascent of Mam Tor’s south west face is more interesting

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#693 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 25, 2018, 08:19:43 am
A quiet day on Hen Cloud yesterday, not a bod in sight. The North Easterly seemed to be blowing the clag over to the roaches in the morning. This was a bit of a shameless redpoint of master of reality. I’m no way good enough to do this placing the gear on lead. Felt top end e6 even like this, but maybe that’s the bitter wind and man flu 🙄. I used to have a purely ground up ethic but I’ve given that up in exchange for climbing routes that I’ve always wanted to in the day or two a month I get out. Still ground up or onsight where possible I reckon.

Watch Master of Reality on Vimeo:

Kingy

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#694 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 25, 2018, 09:04:09 am
Great effort Dan! I remember trying that one on toprope in 2000. Its certainly on the upper end of E6, or whatever that means. Solid 7b+ at least.  :icon_beerchug: Interesting fact about Leonardo's painting skills  :smart:

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#695 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 25, 2018, 10:00:03 am
Cheers Ted, long time no see buddy!  yeah I thought quite tough for 7b+ but then it’s always hard to translate sport grades to natural gritstone. Taul Paul was out with us yesterday which was cool. Him and Jonny spent the afternoon psyching each other out of doing it 😂. I’m off to state at ink blots....

mrjonathanr

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#696 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 25, 2018, 08:39:26 pm
Love the cameo at 3:10

Inspiring stuff. Can I ask if you got gear after the top break, where you are partly out of shot?

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#697 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
November 25, 2018, 09:11:27 pm
Cheers, pippin the whippet always has to get in on the action whether intended or not. You can put a range of gear up there around friend 1/2 or rock 4-5. It’s sort of over there (about balancy 5a) but I was cold and tired and the rock was filthy lichenous scrittle as I hadn’t been up before. The part you wouldn’t want to fall off is the rock up where I swapped a heel to a toe. Hadn’t done it that way before- dubious beta from my mate. So felt pretty sketch. Some great climbing!

tomtom

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#698 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
December 12, 2018, 07:14:10 pm


Someone had to post this.... genius Doylo :)

hansmaro

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#699 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
December 14, 2018, 03:23:44 pm


This is from a trip to the peak about a year ago. Being from Norway I must say that I am mighty impressed that this one and harder routes are done ground-up, flashed and onsighted on a regular basis. From what I´ve read that seems to be my impression at least... We had to throw a rope down for a couple of practice-runs before committing.

 

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