[Kingy]

Ming the Merciless 8a+/8b on Garage Buttress at Stoney. Zippy's route right of Little Plum from 2007.

[YorkshireTea]

Not sure if this fits in exactly but it's about routes and I made it so I guess so?

Quite sure even the biggest climbing history buffs will learn something (how many people know about Orujo, suggested 9a+ and it's artificial holds?) bar maybe Remus (the site was a great reference btw, thanks!)

[Will Hunt]

I'm reading Tides at the moment and found myself googling the Slovak Direct on Denali. It turned up Houseman's own video of his and Bullocks ascent. Fairly low production values so can't put it in Quality vids but definitely worth 20 mins for the POV of a fantastic looking route.

For context it's a two day technical approach from base camp on the other side of the mountain. You've then got 3000m of vertical with overhanging rock and ice finishing in an exhausting snow bash up the Cassin Ridge. They set off from base with 4 meals and 5 days worth of gels. Because of the size of the route you won't have enough gear for the belays if you were to try and retreat from about half way up. So you either do it or you... die, I guess? Rad.

https://youtu.be/QUMHPnV8qz0?si=wb_FAM6JWqF6RXfl

[Johnny Brown]

Have you read Steve House’s book? A pivotal ascent in his career too.

[Will Hunt]

Beyond the Mountain? Not read it. Any good?

[SA Chris]

I thought it was a great read.

[nik at work]

Sam on Rooster Booster (7c+) at the Tor.
https://youtu.be/prGuTm3vCrs?si=venvwXFsd-2yWRt7

(Apologies for my annoying excitable shouting, I’ll try and tone it down in future…)

[andy popp]

When you've been talking about "kids" in Power Club I didn't totally understand how much you really meant kids!. But great effort - excitable shouting more than justified.

[Scouse D]

Very cool Nik. George is now suddenly very interested in going to the Tor and getting stuck in.

[stone]

Bravo!

I'm also inexplicably psyched that Nick himself, as a grown up, is getting on it. Why has this become purely a tweenager's route? It never used to be. I think Andy Harris used to re-do it ever year as part of his "calling of the lime" ritual.

[nik at work]

Stone I don’t think anyone has called me a grown-up before 

Andy there’s  a really cool group of kids in Sheff right now (and further afield). Lots of talent for sure, but also lots of support, positivity and fun. It’s properly reinvigorated my climbing being on the periphery of their joy.

Very cool Nik. George is now suddenly very interested in going to the Tor and getting stuck in.

Cool, George would smash it! Sam still syked to get back there. Plenty more to go at…
And as Stone points out, still unfinished business for me…

[Bonjoy]

Great work Sam

Andy there’s  a really cool group of kids in Sheff right now (and further afield). Lots of talent for sure, but also lots of support, positivity and fun. It’s properly reinvigorated my climbing being on the periphery of their joy.

Great to be around the psyche and talent.
Taking the yoots out on the classics for the first time you kind of get to re-live your own pre-cynical early years.

[jwi]

I don't think I've heard about this route. Seems fairly significant

[edshakey]

Seems a shame to put this here - it's not low-quality, it's just not a high spec production



I thought it was a great quick film, looks like an amazing expedition

[Fiend]

Pleased with all of this (although the last one is a bit of a filler given the angle but it fits the theme).

[andy popp]

Some of those look very good Matt. Nice one.

[GCW]

Did you happen to have a go at that sharp arête a few metres left of Entombed, Fiend? Though I say it myself, David Vetter seems to have been sadly unloved!

[Fiend]

Cheers Andy, I do think there are some decent routes there - Into The Light is probably the best of the bunch, it just works well and has a cool position.

GCW - I didn't look at David Vetter myself, a bit sketchy highball for me, but a cool line!. I'm sure r-man and/or d-mann must have done it?

[mrjonathanr]

loving the route name/music selection.

Looking forward to quick ascents of Agadoo and Una Paloma Blanca next.

[GCW]

GCW - I didn't look at David Vetter myself, a bit sketchy highball for me, but a cool line!. I'm sure r-man and/or d-mann must have done it?

D-Mann has certainly done it. There are two other logged ascents on UKC but I don’t know who they were. R-Man never did it as far as I know. Four ascents in 14 years!  Probably why it now has a tree growing in it.

[JamieG]

GCW - I didn't look at David Vetter myself, a bit sketchy highball for me, but a cool line!. I'm sure r-man and/or d-mann must have done it?

D-Mann has certainly done it. There are two other logged ascents on UKC but I don’t know who they were. R-Man never did it as far as I know. Four ascents in 14 years!  Probably why it now has a tree growing in it.

My brother and I have both stood below it and it is a lovely looking line. The climbing looks really nice too, and I love aretes. But it is definitely highball! Not sure I'd fancy taking the ride from anywhere near the top. If I remember correctly the landing isn't ideal either.

[r-man]

I know of three people who have either done or been on it this year (I was only there for one ascent, but the other two are probable).

I think the tree is gone or mostly gone now, after one of the aforementioned suitors attempted to use it for a downclimb.

[Fiend]

loving the route name/music selection.

My work here is done 

(The names seem to fit okay anyway - Inverted Cross at Cross Stones, Entombed is a tiny bit like a tombstone block, Prisoner Of Doom right next to Doomsday, Into The Light swings out from the shade under the roof into the light, and The Word Of Satan is next to Pagan and Heretic...)


GCW - at least it's had some attention! Maybe being tucked away in a mostly easier trad quarry keeps it off the radar. And maybe it needs someone to do the 2 remaining projects there to put the harder, bolder side of Stronstrey back on the map...

[GCW]

Two projects?
There’s the Nik at Work blunt arête project on the left wall? And the direct above my Tony Bland problems? And the wall right of DV (can we name any more depressing problems, other than baby Fae at Wilton?). 

[Probes]

If you mean by blunt arete project, the quite short sit down thing, high up in the back left of quarry? I think Mike Adams did this a few years ago. Utterly desperate.
I had a good few sessions on that direct up Tony Bland, a good few (cough 20?  ) years ago. Really cool line eh, but just impossible. Hope you keeping well GCW

#edit  Ahhh    I know which blunt arete project you mean!