Non-Quality Chuffing Videos (Read 286078 times)

mark20 · April 07, 2021, 06:47:21 pm

Not sure if this will work as it's a facebook video
Nick Dixon putting up another new E8 , what a legend
https://www.facebook.com/501818648/videos/10158509137748649/

remus · April 07, 2021, 07:17:56 pm

Quote from: mark20 on April 07, 2021, 06:47:21 pm

Not sure if this will work as it's a facebook video
Nick Dixon putting up another new E8 , what a legend
https://www.facebook.com/501818648/videos/10158509137748649/

That's mega, that look in his eyes as he's lashing for the top!

Will Hunt · April 07, 2021, 08:03:47 pm

Nick fucking Dixon

jwi · May 11, 2021, 04:08:45 pm

Uncut video of Action Direct

Useful for anyone who needs to know how to train for AD.

Climbing time 66 s
Longest contact time on a hold: 13.5 s
Average contact time: 8s
Median contact: 7.9s

Longest contact free time between holds: 4s
Average contact free time 1s
Median contact free time: 0.4 s

Remind me again why 7:3 repeaters are supposed to mimic strength endurance efforts? Instead of 8:1?

Fiend · May 11, 2021, 09:57:48 pm

Nice video despite the front-on angle. Not quite as fun as your maths / ranting though. Maybe something to do with moves being dynamic not static, and having feet on??

Kingy · July 05, 2021, 09:11:28 pm

Progress at Kilnsey. The actual ascent starts at 9 min 30secs but the best footage is at 6 mins in from a close go.

Fiend · July 05, 2021, 09:20:48 pm

Yeah, lovely clear footage on that 6 min bit.

jwi · July 06, 2021, 02:49:19 pm

remus · August 31, 2021, 07:09:58 pm

Top quality DWS psyche material.

Duncan campbell · September 01, 2021, 06:31:18 am

That’s gotta go in the quality section surely!?

andy moles · December 06, 2021, 10:20:37 am

This is mostly me talking to my camera for something to do to salvage an otherwise wasted drive, but shows a cool new sport route on Anglesey. Featuring ducks and ukulele.

Skip to 7 minutes if you want to see the climbing rather than me waffling.

petejh · December 06, 2021, 10:53:17 am

Brilliant! Good film. Love the climbing on that face, good onsighting territory with the orange rock and white holds..

I'd had these two lines on my new routes list for a few years but never made the effort.. must have passed them so many times on my way to Ireland to go bolting over there! Good to see them getting bolted and done. Possibly a line or two on the rh arete to do. We scoped out the middle of the face last time there - looks desperate but might be possible in the mid-high 8s. I was a bit disappointed to discover the groove to the left had been done years ago as it would have made a nice sport route. There's probably loads of decent easy stuff to do in the main quarry to the left if someone ever wanted to put in the effort of cleaning and bolting for some low grade 'A55 sport climbs' type scenes.

andy moles · December 06, 2021, 11:07:11 am

Cheers Pete. Agree there's more potential there for whoever can be bothered.

I suspect that Crispin's permission might be sought at some point to bolt the Mustapha Twins...though not by me.

I think the potential route up the middle of the face would be a pretty crap line unfortunately - it would basically end up linking CC into TT, there's just too much blankness to go as a fully independent line. I suspect some of the flakes that make it just possible might not stay attached either.

The arete and groove right of CC might be OK, though the rock looks pretty flaky.

Adam Lincoln · December 06, 2021, 02:59:55 pm

Quote from: andy moles on December 06, 2021, 10:20:37 am

This is mostly me talking to my camera for something to do to salvage an otherwise wasted drive, but shows a cool new sport route on Anglesey. Featuring ducks and ukulele.

Skip to 7 minutes if you want to see the climbing rather than me waffling.

Excellent stuff Andy. Been meaning to go here for a while now. If you get a weather window in next few weeks and need a partner for direct let me know. Off to Spain soon after that.....

andy moles · December 06, 2021, 03:50:38 pm

Hey cheers Adam - guessing you missed the little note at the end about the direct.

I went back on Friday to try it, but ripped a hold off the crux. It's now a huge reach (or a really terrible intermediate), so I've written it off as too hard for me. It's a shame, because I'm sure someone tall and strong can do it, but it'll be a more unbalanced route.

Open project though, with very friendly bolts for working it!

Adam Lincoln · December 07, 2021, 08:05:08 am

Quote from: andy moles on December 06, 2021, 03:50:38 pm

Hey cheers Adam - guessing you missed the little note at the end about the direct.

I went back on Friday to try it, but ripped a hold off the crux. It's now a huge reach (or a really terrible intermediate), so I've written it off as too hard for me. It's a shame, because I'm sure someone tall and strong can do it, but it'll be a more unbalanced route.

Open project though, with very friendly bolts for working it!

Ahh ok, yes, must have missed it. Thats a shame. How tall are you?

Luckily weather is lucky grim for a bit so wall will be out of action i guess.

andy moles · December 07, 2021, 09:19:31 am

I'm 5'10" with +1 ape, and it seemed for me it wouldn't be possible without my feet coming off. A couple of possible methods, but in neither case are the holds you're going for amazing.

Definitely a few interested parties, will be fun to see if it goes down when it dries up.

mark20 · December 07, 2021, 11:11:40 am

Quote from: andy moles on December 06, 2021, 03:50:38 pm

I went back on Friday to try it, but ripped a hold off the crux. It's now a huge reach (or a really terrible intermediate), so I've written it off as too hard for me. It's a shame, because I'm sure someone tall and strong can do it, but it'll be a more unbalanced route.

Sounds like it would be worth glueing the hold back on?

Great vid, really enjoyed it.

Teaboy · December 07, 2021, 11:30:22 am

Hi Andy, any idea what it’d be like to link the start of TRS into TTT or vice versa. I’m not in the market for a cruxy 8a but would be interested in 7c cop out version!

andy moles · December 07, 2021, 12:12:40 pm

Quote from: mark20 on December 07, 2021, 11:11:40 am

Sounds like it would be worth glueing the hold back on?

It shattered into several pieces unfortunately.

Quote from: Teaboy on December 07, 2021, 11:30:22 am

Hi Andy, any idea what it’d be like to link the start of TRS into TTT or vice versa. I’m not in the market for a cruxy 8a but would be interested in 7c cop out version!

Well the vice versa you'd still have the bouldery crux of TT, but that would definitely work. And yeah the TRS - TTT link should work, maybe a bit draggy at the top but ok with a couple of extended roller draws where the direction changes. If I end up going back I'd probably try that, the TT finish is so good.

andy moles · December 07, 2021, 01:09:39 pm

Come to think of it, you could also climb TTT into the project line by moving up left from the rest. Gonna be one of those venues...

Kingy · April 29, 2023, 08:45:42 pm

Photoshot 8b at the Lab Sector from my recent trip to Margalef. The send starts at 6:28 but I've included a load of failure footage before to provide some context.

hansmaro · October 12, 2023, 05:13:26 pm

Unsure where to put this, but it is most definitively not quality.

SA Chris · October 12, 2023, 08:18:35 pm

mixed feelings. Some incredible footage showing why Squamish should be on every climbers wishlist (just been paging through guidebook!), and difficult subject matter, but presented in a hopelessly melodramatic way.

cheque · October 12, 2023, 09:53:02 pm

I feel like if that film had better dialogue or, possibly even better, didn’t have dialogue at all (you could have the couple yelling at each other but with music over the top) it could really be pretty good.

At some point someone’s decided that the climbing footage is too slow and the solution is to speed it up and that was a really bad decision.