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Non-Quality Chuffing Videos (Read 286422 times)

teestub

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#775 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
May 03, 2020, 06:59:28 pm

I remember a story about Honnold onsight soloing it and Dave Simmonite saying it was the sketchiest thing he'd seen. Probably full of half-truths but it's a dramatic picture.

Wasn’t the story something about Honnold’s sausage fingers not fitting some of the jams so he had to use his little fingers?

cheque

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#776 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
May 03, 2020, 07:04:34 pm
Cheers for that Guy. I haven’t watched it since it was first up. How many times did he climb it?

Wood FT

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#777 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
May 03, 2020, 07:35:15 pm

I remember a story about Honnold onsight soloing it and Dave Simmonite saying it was the sketchiest thing he'd seen. Probably full of half-truths but it's a dramatic picture.

Wasn’t the story something about Honnold’s sausage fingers not fitting some of the jams so he had to use his little fingers?

Panic!

Cheers for that Guy. I haven’t watched it since it was first up. How many times did he climb it?

Once in full, then bottom half again to the rest and slid down an ab rope. 

Duncan campbell

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#778 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
May 03, 2020, 07:43:56 pm
Lovely stuff GvG. I really should go and try London Wall again!

T_B

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#779 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
May 03, 2020, 07:45:51 pm
Great little film.

I fell off the top crack when I first tried it at a time when I’d climbed in the States and was on-sighting E5 regularly. I remember being gutted. It was many years before I went back and did it one evening with no dramas. The lack of decent feet on that crux means you’re fully committed to the jams. Soloing London Wall is very, very impressive in my opinion, much more so than it looks on paper and I consider myself reasonable on finger jams (I’ve onsighted 12c in that style). I’d go as far as to say I would prefer to solo End of the Affair over London Wall. Perhaps it’s partly the height, where the crux is and the ground - a big unforgiving rock ledge. And because I’ve never been much of a soloist!

Johnny Brown

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#780 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
May 04, 2020, 11:27:37 am
Enjoyed that, cheers Guy.

I've not done much proper US 5.12 but a fair bit of 5.11 including a few of those mountain 5.11+ crack pitches that are always harder than the 5.12 face sections.  The start on LW is really bouldery and not in a US style, and as T_B says the top is very droppable (and usually dirty onsight). So I'd say London Wall is definitely in the 5.12 bracket. But also I'd value Randall's grade opinion over anyone's above, if he says 12b that's a significant data point.

reeve

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#781 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
May 04, 2020, 11:58:59 am
I'd definitely seen that before but forgotten how good it is - thanks Guy.

Grade-wise, 11d for me. But as Tom and Adam has said, there are various factors about it which don't make it a 'good' solo in that if you had to solo a route of that grade, there would be easier ones to choose. I thought the ending was great, very insightful.

SA Chris

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#782 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
May 04, 2020, 02:11:25 pm
I don't know if this is the right place for this, but behold an almost very dangerous fall

Very lucky that didn't go while he was trying to clip, or he would have decked head first for sure.

tomtom

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#783 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
May 04, 2020, 04:33:45 pm
I’m late - but I really liked Jim Popes video. Daft name - great film.

jamesturnbull97

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#784 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
May 05, 2020, 09:34:59 am
3 alright routes at some crags you may have heard of...

spidermonkey09

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#785 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
May 05, 2020, 10:06:41 am
Always good watching the White Wizard in action!

onlineclimber

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#786 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
May 06, 2020, 12:51:52 pm
Just watched the last 2 videos, for some reason I never read this thread before. Looks like some more lockdown boredom entertainment sorted. Thanks  :clap2:

Wood FT

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#787 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
June 23, 2020, 07:19:15 pm
Pat Hill on Ninth Life, E7 6c




teestub

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#788 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
June 23, 2020, 08:38:32 pm
Should be an extra e point for wearing trousers so baggy you can’t see your feet!

Wood FT

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#789 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
June 23, 2020, 09:24:48 pm
Horrible attire. Worn for flexibility apparently - just wear pants.

Coops_13

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#790 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
June 23, 2020, 11:42:23 pm
Horrible attire. Worn for flexibility apparently - just wear pants.
*worn because it's the only pair of trousers Pat owns...  :lol:

shark

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#791 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
June 24, 2020, 08:19:22 am
Should be an extra e point for wearing trousers so baggy you can’t see your feet!

And another for being belayed by VG

teestub

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#792 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
June 24, 2020, 08:56:16 am
Probably want a nice tight rope on E7 😂

andy popp

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#793 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
June 24, 2020, 09:09:14 am
Good to see that this has remained a trad route.

Wood FT

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#794 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
June 24, 2020, 12:35:32 pm
Should be an extra e point for wearing trousers so baggy you can’t see your feet!

And another for being belayed by VG

Probably want a nice tight rope on E7 😂

Set of bastards.

To be fair, I wasn’t his first choice, not even his second. Nic wondered off and didn’t come back and Rob refused, so he was stuck with me.


Wood FT

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#795 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
August 01, 2020, 03:36:00 pm


Tequila Mockingbird (most of)

andy popp

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#796 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
August 01, 2020, 05:45:13 pm
Nice to see that lovely wall again.

i_a_coops

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#797 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
August 21, 2020, 10:14:12 am

SA Chris

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#798 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
August 21, 2020, 10:30:05 am
cheque already decided it was quality, and stuck it there. Good effort.

i_a_coops

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#799 Re: Non-Quality Chuffing Videos
August 21, 2020, 10:52:02 am
cheque already decided it was quality, and stuck it there. Good effort.

 :slap:

 

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