[petejh]

Lee ensured his glory, by still claiming the first ascent of Canyonlands and having it recorded as such in the Clwyd Limestone guide 'Lee Proctor with one rest point'.
I hereby claim the first ascents of every route 8b - 8c+ I bolted and that Robins ultimately sent. He may have been the first to do them clean, but obvs I was the first ascensionist 'with rest points' 

[tomtom]

Excellent idea. IF we can accept this protocol then at last Shark can put the Oak to rest.

[36chambers]

Lee ensured his glory, by still claiming the first ascent of Canyonlands and having it recorded as such in the Clwyd Limestone guide 'Lee Proctor with one rest point'.
I hereby claim the first ascents of every route 8b - 8c+ I bolted and that Robins ultimately sent. He may have been the first to do them clean, but obvs I was the first ascensionist 'with rest points' 

he should have just said it was a two pitch route.

[petejh]

This 
Wasn't Jumbo Love originally a two-pitch route done by Randy Leavitt or did I just make that up..?

And it's what we do with trad.

[Doylo]

This 
Wasn't Jumbo Love originally a two-pitch route done by Randy Leavitt or did I just make that up..?

And it's what we do with trad.

He did the first 7c section before it gets hard.
Be a strange two pitcher stopping 2 metres below the top of devils gorge, then bringing up your second. Then doing 4 moves to the top. 

[Rob F]

Will, you're the guidebook writer.

The Oak

2 pitch route- yeh or neh???

[tomtom]

Will, you're the guidebook writer.

The Oak

2 pitch route- yeh or neh???

7c+ that way

[Will Hunt]

Joking aside, I have seen this on Yorkshire Limestone. Can't remember the route off the top of my head.

For a price I can put the Oak in as "8b with rests. An unpopular variation avoiding the rests is also possible at the same grade".

[Kingy]

2 for the price of one - Smarter Martyr 8b plus some footage of Joint Enterprise 7C+, the powerful start. A nice addition from Andy Chrome

www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvKc5eMIm0c&feature=youtu.be

[abarro81]

Does it really go that far left on the bit between the breaks? I only had one session on it, about 5 years ago, but I remember trying to go direct at that point - rh to crimpy thing, lh to bad sidepull/undercut, stab up right (i.e. avoiding the big loop left) and thinking this was the crux...

[Kingy]

I think a hold broke on that bit, ie the hard section of Massala Martyr, thats what I got told anyway. It may no longer be possible. That's the reason for the loop out left, think this is also the way Dan did it recently. I intend to have a proper look at that section to see if it's still possible but it looked pretty blank. It used to be the crux on an 8a+ route so it's safe to say if it is possible but harder, the grade may be substantially bumped up!

Also, the moves past the last bolt broke over 18 years ago I understand so there is another loop out right on that section too (not shown in vid). Not sure this bit will be reclimbable as it looks v smooth (and filthy!) Shame Massala Martyr is so broken, I guess that's the nature of the rock...

Anyone have any info on this?

[Kingy]

Here is the UKC description for Smarter Martyr, referring to the broken hold and climbing now to the left of the bolts. Hopefully a direct will be doable!

Rockfax Description
A direct on Massala Martyr. A boulder problem start goes direct, to the right of the first two bolts. The upper section uses the same bolts as Massala Martyr but takes a line to the left. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The direct solution to Massala Martyr. A neat font 7c problem start climbs directly to the right of the first two bolts, the crux above is now harder since a hold came off.

Andy Crome 04/May/2010

[Fiend]

dMac on a 3 pitch stamina plod "boulder problem".

[Wood FT]

Hot Flushes, 8a

Raven Tor

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmvByGdA5dk&feature=youtu.be

[Steve R]

Thought this was pretty good. Nice to see non-steep hard routes occasionally - ratty deadpointing and one-inch punching ahoy.  Bit shouty at the end.

[Fiend]

Sounds good to me, will watch

[Wood FT]

Pembroke DWS, feels like a million years ago. features 8c+ climber relatively gibbering on perfect pitch.

[36chambers]

I don't know if this is the right place for this, but behold an almost very dangerous fall

[Wood FT]

I filmed this years ago for Tom’s series on EpicTV and thought the footage was unfairly lost in their ceaseless tide of content. So I’ve uploaded it here.

[andy popp]

Cheers Guy, that was very nice.

[tomrainbow]

Really enjoyed that Guy...should never have been relegated, I've watched far worse on EpicTV!

[Wood FT]

Thanks both

[andy popp]

It's surely never 12b though? Ray Jardine gave it 5.11 something, I just can't remember which letter. Mind you, I think he also gave Ray's Roof 5.11 something.

[Wood FT]

It's surely never 12b though? Ray Jardine gave it 5.11 something, I just can't remember which letter. Mind you, I think he also gave Ray's Roof 5.11 something.

yeah, I don't know if that was my mistake or what I'd been told. I'm not qualified to have an opinion, what did you think to it?

I remember a story about Honnold onsight soloing it and Dave Simmonite saying it was the sketchiest thing he'd seen. Probably full of half-truths but it's a dramatic picture.

[andy popp]

I was expecting a real fight but it went ok. I didn't really use French grades at the time but maybe 6c+/7a?

Soloing it, in whatever style, is a great effort though. Tom made it look incredibly easy.