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Good non-grit bouldering venues nr Leek? (Read 2960 times)

heelhookofglory

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Good non-grit bouldering venues nr Leek?
July 06, 2010, 04:20:53 pm
Dare I say it... I'm a little sick of bouldering on grit and really need to get on to a different rock type (for a short while anyway).

So, what are the best non-grit destinations near to Leek?

Gus

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The Churnet!!

slackline

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Plenty of Limestone just the other side of Buxton.

Check out the Central and Southern Limestone sections of peakbouldering.info.

Steamboat Stello

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The Churnet is not too far away, amazing bouldering on interesting rock in a tranquil setting. Its in the bouldering guide. Lots of problems at most grades, high and low and also some long traverses. Some parts sheltered in hot weather.

erm, sam

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I've only been there once so far, but the Churnet is really good.

heelhookofglory

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I used to live just down the road from Dimmingsdale / Ousal etc., so have spent plenty of time down the lovely Churnet. In fact I've just had a nice night down there today :-D

Looking for other places. Will checkout the limestone venues over Buxton way, thanks.

Any more?

Johnny Brown

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There's all the sandstone crags in Shropshire/ Cheshire - the closest of which is actually in Staffs I think - Heighley Castle near Stoke.

cofe

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One of the best problems of it's grade in the country is in Shropshire...

Johnny Brown

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That's right. Its called 'Third brother of five', and there's a good arete to warm up on too.

cofe

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Back around.

heelhookofglory

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Heighley Castle near Stoke.

Is access ok there at the mo? I thought it was out.

Jim

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if your up buxton way, quarry's end at Grinlow hill is something a bit different.
Remember having a good day there a few years ago

Eddies

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Grindlow hill (Soloman's Temple) is OK for a sunny day circuit with a picnic but the only place worth going back to is 'The Boulder' its the closest bit of limestone to Leek. Your best off parking in the layby on the Grin Low road just past the farm sheds and walking up that way. Good little boulder for training on.
Apart from that your best off down Millersdale for proper lime.

Bonjoy

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If you're after limestone, there's some venues in Dovedale. The Tube is the best known. There's also a cave behind Reynards Arch which is usually wet but should be bone dry now. There's nothing recorded on it that I know of, but it's pretty good and would be popular if it dried more and was nearer Sheff. Like a bigger better version of Tom's Roof.

heelhookofglory

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Cool ta. Was thinking of heading down to check out The Tube so I'll go and have a nosey.

Critchlow

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awsome walls in stoke ;-( lol
think there is loads of bouldering in buxton and out towards manifold to  . not perfect bouldering venues but still some good stuff to do there.
there is a cave thats got loads of potential if you head towards beeston tor . near a cafe u cant miss it. all to steep for me but some of the young guns today will eat this for breaky !


Andy B

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there is a cave thats got loads of potential if you head towards beeston tor . near a cafe u cant miss it. all to steep for me but some of the young guns today will eat this for breaky !

If this is Wetton Mill then there is very little potential there really. There is an overhang round the back, but the rock quality is a bit poor, then inside the cave, there is a small low roof on the left and a nice looking little bulge at the back, but not much else worth bothering with. I think Dan W has done some problems here, but I won't be rushing back, and I see some merit in most problems. Or maybe I just don't have the necessary vision. Or maybe you're not talking about Wetton Mill.

r-man

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I think Dan W has done some problems here

The Warrens and I did two problems at Wetton Mill. The obvious 7A+ traverse and a 6C sitstart. The trav was alright, if a bit dusty.

The cave floor gets very wet after rain.

 

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