[slackline]

Body has changed shape (I look a bit like a climber again) but weight remained the same - bizarre!

Muscle is heavier than fat.

[andy popp]

Having gone missing in action I'm going to get back on the wagon. I buggered my left knee 3 weeks ago so can't climb at the minute. Only goal is to mend knee.

Mon: nothing
Tues: Weighted pull-ups, pretty good, increased max weight
Wed: Leaving do at work
Thurs: deadhanging, mediocre as I haven't done any in ages, not really backwards tho'
Fri: weighted pull-ups, v. good - same max weight but increased reps/sets.
Sat: gentle 20x25m swim, taking it easy as can't use left leg quite properly. Steam room and jacuzzi. V. nice
Sun: nowt.

Need to see if I can find more weights lying around to increase the load again this week.

[Ru]

Thought joining in might inspire me to try and train a bit more...

Goals:

(short term) make the most of the dryness and tick some Cornice(s) stuff.

(longer term) get back to climbing 8b+/8c, finish Evolution, have a few more sessions on Hubble, maybe join the queues on Unjustified. Climb font 8b in font, maybe. A spot of bouldering perhaps. Climb a Frankenjura 8c possibly. Go back to the Tarn and do Tenessee. Go to Margalef. We'll have to see how much time I have.

Mon: Work.
Tue: Work.
Wed: Work. Wonder where I can mount my Beastmaker and campus board in the new house that won't just result in the Rawl bolts exploding the old bricks and/or lots of building work. Work.
Thurs: Work.
Fri: Work.
Sat: A bit of work, then install cat flap then a curry with the Littlefairs.
Sun: Cornice and the Nook followed by a nice meal out on the way home. Try to work in eve, prepping case for Monday but too tired (probably the single bottle of beer with the meal that did it). Get up early on Monday to do it then instead.

[SA Chris]

STG - get some fitness back
MTG get down to 13 1/2 stone again
LTG - get soem climbing fitness back

M-Walked to work and back - 1 hr Went to gym at lunchtime and swam 15 or so lenghts (20m pool) disappointed by how much I sucked.
T- half hour of "hills with pushchair"
W- Walked to work and back - 1 hr
T - Walked to work and back - 1 hr
F - Walked to work and back - 1 hr
S- Nowt
S - Did red circuit at Glentress - definitely slowest on climbs, but still held my own on descents. Not used to saddle though!!!!

[shark]

Thought joining in might inspire me to try and train a bit more...
Mon: Work.
Tue: Work.
Wed: Work. Wonder where I can mount my Beastmaker and campus board in the new house that won't just result in the Rawl bolts exploding the old bricks and/or lots of building work. Work.
Thurs: Work.
Fri: Work.
Sat: A bit of work, then install cat flap then a curry with the Littlefairs.
Sun: Cornice and the Nook followed by a nice meal out on the way home. Try to work in eve, prepping case for Monday but too tired (probably the single bottle of beer with the meal that did it). Get up early on Monday to do it then instead.

Top tip. Just say no to DIY. Pay someone to do it. It causes repetitive strain injury (Keith) lost thumbs (Dolly) and eats up valuable time when you could be climbing/training.  From what Sarah said about the time it took to do the catflap its not your strong point especially in the context of what your chargeable hours must be. Oh and welcome to PC. 

[iain]

STG: Holiday on Skye starting next weekend, really looking forward to it.
MTG: Onsight 7b regularly
LTG: Infinite Gravity and Freaky Ralph

Mon: Yoga, fingerboard and repeaters
Tues: Run
Wed: Yoga, fingerboard and repeaters
Thurs: Run
Fri: Yoga
Sat: Short but good day climbing at Winspit, cleaned up a few previous onsight failures. Too hot/greasy to project.
Sun: Ultimate cooked breaky, cycle to work it off and then lovely chill day.

[chris_j_s]

Wonder where I can mount my Beastmaker and campus board in the new house that won't just result in the Rawl bolts exploding the old bricks and/or lots of building work.

I've heard of people epoxying a long threaded bar into soft/old brickwork before to avoid crumbling/exploding caused by expanding anchors (i.e. rawl bolts).

[Disclaimer] I haven't done this myself though so I can't vouch for its strength...!

[Ru]

  From what Sarah said about the time it took to do the catflap its not your strong point especially in the context of what your chargeable hours must be. Oh and welcome to PC. 

The cat flap is a masterpiece. Sarah has no idea about the level of craftsmanship that lies beneath the plastic exterior. I carved wooden filler strips that fit into beading around the door panels and everything.

[chillax]

STG: E3
MTG: E4
LTG: E7

Last week: sweet fuck all. one fingerboard session on saturday but that was it. no enthusiasm.

Lost the psyche last week, just had no desire to exert any enerygy. Went out to one of the islands of donegal yesterday though and did a new route (E1 or 2) onsight on steep rock with loose holds. The kind of thing that had i tried it this time last year I would have been pumped and useless after about 2 minutes. Nice to see improvement. Hopefully this week will be a bit better.

[Andy F]

Goals - quick ticks in the mid-high 7's, GA, COTC, GBH

Tues - volume bouldering at Awesome. Didn't climb well, felt weak.
Thurs - 50 minutes fingerboarding.
Sat - Kilnsey, crap conditions. Warmed up on 7a+. Put the clips in The Jekyll, had two redpoints failing at the same point due to lack of stamina. I'm 7b+/c fit and need to be 8a/+ fit, but it's improving with each trip out.

[Adam Lincoln]

S - Did red circuit at Glentress

So did i. Must have missed you.

[Falling Down]

Wonder where I can mount my Beastmaker and campus board in the new house that won't just result in the Rawl bolts exploding the old bricks and/or lots of building work.

I've heard of people epoxying a long threaded bar into soft/old brickwork before to avoid crumbling/exploding caused by expanding anchors (i.e. rawl bolts).

[Disclaimer] I haven't done this myself though so I can't vouch for its strength...!

Ru - I used long pieces of threaded bar to hold a really solid back board that I could then mount the Beastmaker on.

[Charles]

Body has changed shape (I look a bit like a climber again) but weight remained the same - bizarre!

Muscle is heavier than fat.

True but I don't think I've gained any muscle in my stamina sessions.

[Johnny Brown]

Freeway beta - if you get on it...

If you swing leads one person gets both the hard pitches. Mostly E2-3, with two E4 pitches - the roof, with one hard stretch, and the corner two pitches below the roof which is sustained ('fiddly rps' on the topo = bomber wires 1-3). There are bolts anywhere it would be bold without. Amazing route.

[SA Chris]

S - Did red circuit at Glentress

So did i. Must have missed you.

You kidding? We were there from about 11 until just after 1. Started off quite grim, but got better.

[Adam Lincoln]

S - Did red circuit at Glentress

So did i. Must have missed you.

You kidding? We were there from about 11 until just after 1. Started off quite grim, but got better.

Must have just missed you, got there about 1.30.

[JamesD]

Went to Croatia so did nada for the last week or so apart from swimming, snorkelling, and hiking wanted to actually get some climbing in, but everywhere worth going was so difficult/expensive to access from where we were it seemed like too much of a hassle!
Also I think holidays without climbing seem more dangerous, I managed to re-tweak my elbow (only a little thankfully) having an arm wrestling competition with all my girlfriends sisters boyfriends, and her mums boyfriend haha, I won but at the expense of injury lol.
Oh actually I did manage some climbing, I bought some five ten daescent's before I left so I had something I could walk around in and climb in if the mood took me, and hiking up this hill to view a really cool castle I came across a 5/6 metre high dry stone wall which presented a nice bit of fun climbing, small smears and tiny edges for the hands, really fun 
Anyhow, back to the exercise routine this week, need to get serious about dropping some weight, so the diet is getting serious now, as is the training.

[SA Chris]

Must have just missed you, got there about 1.30.

I think we were still dicking about in the bottom car park at the at point. Will text you next time.

[tomtom]

I'm late.... STG 7B+

M: Almscliff. Punter. Lasted an hour.
T: Work
W: Work
Th : Work then Harmers wood after work. Good play - no real progress but felt stronger..
Fri: Work
Sa: Rubicon. Good play. Did nothing really but felt trashed afterwards... good.
Su. Drink.

Progress seems to have stalled/gone backwards in the last 2-3 weeks... despite frequency of climbing - maybe its the weather.. 

[Three Nine]

STG: be strong, climb something hard
MTG: redpoint lots of 8as/onsight lots of 7cs in Europe
LTG: Tuppence 2011

M Milage up to 7b (redpoint) on S Wales sandstone
T 2 hours trying a 7A+ traverse at Bourton Coombe, not that psyched
W Onsighted a soft 7b at Avon, did a few 7a and 7a+ routes at Bourton Coombe
T Rest, cardio 30 mins run
F Rest, cardio 30 mins run
S 3 hours Parisella's, humid. Was weak and shit. Repeated Bust Lip.
S am Pill Box, failed to do PB original. pm Pass, failed on King of Drunks. Felt worse than when I tried it last year!

This week has taught me I need to stop pottering and start trying to climb harder shit.