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The Hamer Blog
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Bonjoy
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Leafy gent
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#50 Re: The Hamer Blog
January 31, 2011, 03:45:49 pm
Who’s 'hating on the geez’? I’m sure everyone who’s posted knows Ed’s a beast and wouldn’t struggle to do the problem. Still, it’s a video of half a boulder problem. Wuh?
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Steve R
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#51 Re: The Hamer Blog
January 31, 2011, 05:44:39 pm
there was some uncertainty at the time but we/he thought that was the 'boulder problem part' done
z simple as that really
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Doylo
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#52 Re: The Hamer Blog
January 31, 2011, 05:56:04 pm
Would be the shittest boulder problem in the world
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Johnny Brown
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#53 Re: The Hamer Blog
January 31, 2011, 06:07:40 pm
Bloody hell, bouldering walls have a lot to answer for... the next move is the hard bit!
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hairich
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#54 Re: The Hamer Blog
January 31, 2011, 11:48:04 pm
sorry ed.if you wanna earn that moon logo ya have to top out.back around
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#55 Basloooow
February 04, 2011, 06:00:09 pm
Basloooow
4 February 2011, 12:25 pm
Went up to Baslow yesterday for the first time to check out two wicked looking routes, Poppers E5 6c and The Grand Potato E6 6b. The sending team out was Ed, Steve, Ethan and me! The first route to go down was the amazing Grand Potato, which climbs straight up this slopey arete with great, unusual moves above 'slightly' dodgy gear. Ethan and I chose to lead it, using the gear. Steve however sacked that off and went for the all out solo. His first attempt pretty much got him to the top but had too cold hands to finish it and ended up jumping down from the top of the crag!!!! THE biggest jump down I've ever seen! Scary times..... He somehow got back up and dispached it next go. Awesome!
We then all had a go at the tricky Poppers. This starts with a wierd V7, involving a big jump to a good break and bomber gear, then some crimpy chicken head pulling to a slopey top out. It took a while to get the start, then you just had to pull hard on some thin holds. I got it first and then Ed nailed it second. Two brilliant little routes, hidden away in the tree's. We finished the day off bouldering, with Edwardo ticking Flatworld
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#56 More Routage
February 12, 2011, 12:00:24 am
More Routage
11 February 2011, 6:26 pm
Had anouther cracking day up at Bamford on Tuesday avec Steve. Did some nice soloing to warm up and then did Jet Runner E4 6a on the Salmon slab. After that went ok, I then had a bash at Salmon left-hand (aka The Trout). This is a brilliant E6 6b slab with some cheaky pocket pulling, pebble tweaking moves and a final lunge to hit the top. Had a good first go and then got it on the second attempt. We finished the day off with Steve making a smooth flash of Jasmine.
Check out the two wicked video's he made.
Nice one Steve
from
Ram Man
on
Vimeo
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from
Ram Man
on
Vimeo
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#57 Bristol calling
February 28, 2011, 06:00:15 pm
Bristol calling
28 February 2011, 1:08 pm
We have just spent the last week down south where we first checked out the limestone crag, Brean Down. We were staying at a friends in Bristol and then drove out to the coast where the crags was. I had heard that Brean was a great sport crag to head to when everything else was wet! So yeh we wanted to keep the sport fitness ticking and crack off some new routes that were dry. Brean sounded like a good bet! So anyway we spent 2 days there and did some decent routes. The weather was pretty awful which didnt help with the psyche but still managed the classics such as Chulilla 7b+, Tide Rising 7b+ and Storm Warning 7c+. The verdict on the cliff was that its a good place to head to when the weathers shit but its nothing special.
After that and a session at the Bristol climbing wall we drove up to Shrewsbury to head to the brillant Nesscliffe. This is by far one of my favorite crags and a real hidden away gem, with some of the most awe-inspiring trad lines I've ever seen!
The plan was to have a bash at some of the routes and do some bouldering. So first up was Berlin Wall at E7 6c (sport 7c+). This is a fantastic line, up a pocket infested wall with a mega sketchy top move and three old pegs to protect. I took the fall twice from the top and then got it 3rd go, just.
We then did some great bouldering with Ed ticking the classic Rigpa V8+, the fingery traverse Little Northumberland V9 and Little Wonderland V10.
Back home now for some more grit and hopefully Malham soon!
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#58 Barriers in Time
March 04, 2011, 12:00:15 pm
Barriers in Time
4 March 2011, 9:48 am
Here are some shots of me yesterday, on the classic 80's Nadin testpiece. Super sketchy smears above a spicey run out. Awesome!!
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#59 Row Tor/ Stanton/ Gardoms
March 10, 2011, 06:00:18 pm
Row Tor/ Stanton/ Gardoms
10 March 2011, 12:08 pm
Row Tor,
Went to check out Row tor for the first time last week. Its a great little bouldering area on top of this small hill just above Birchover. We both warmed up on the 6B then went staight on to 'The Yoghurt Hypnotist'(V8), I managed to flash it then Sam did it a few goes after, its a great line up the overhung rib!. Next up was 'Blood Falls'(V8) which Sam had previously done, I was keen to try and flash it and did without a problem! Both 3 star grit climbs. Sam then managed to scrape up Bus Stop mantle (V6)! Very tricky!!. I ten went on to climb 'Quine' (V9) and the stand start to Dave Masons new problem 'Pink Lady' at around (V10) after this we went to have a well diserved rest in the Druid Inn pub!.
Stanton Moor,
Again a new area for both of us. We had checked it out in the guide and were keen to find 'Spare rib' and 'Brads Wall'. We started working on Spare rib (V8) and got totally shot down! we were both climbing like such punters, so sacked it off and went to try 'Brads Wall' (V9), after working out the moves I managed to climb it having fallen off the top slopers the go before. Its a little gem just up from spare rib.
Gardoms Edge,
Back on the routes front, Sam fought his way up the super steep Mickey Finn wich is an awesome looking E6 6b with reahy moves between slopey breaks through a big roof. Good gear just bloody pumpy! Pretty full on.
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#60 New Discoveries
March 17, 2011, 06:00:25 pm
New Discoveries
15 March 2011, 10:56 am
Again the weathers been awesome, with a lot of crags drying out nicely and the days are getting longer! We were joined at the weekend by Jerseys strongest crimp meister Ted Kingsnorth and were keen to check out some new crags that we hadnt been to. First on the list was eatswood rocks near Matlock. Ed had quick hit to the crag last year sometime where he had ticked the classic traverse and had given it high praise. So we headed over to check it out.
Its a small but great little crag tucked away in the trees on the side of a hill. After a quick look around we got stuck into the brilliant traverse which goes at around V9. Its got nothing too desperate, but is fairly long and sustained and is a real joy to climb. The crux involves a knee bar and some heal-toe tension. After putting together a quick makeshift knee-pad (ie t-shirt rapped around my leg), I sent the traverse with Ted nailing it soon after. Ed then reversed it making it look slightly harder than the original. Other problems that were ticked were Hats for Clowns V7 and the wrongly graded Ten Inch Zombies V7 (given V5?? I couldnt do it!).
We then changed venue and headed over to Gardoms South which is anouther venue we hadnt yet been to. This is where the highly rated Suavito V8+ lay hidden. This problem is with out dought one of the best blocs I've ever climbed. It is truely awesome! A magical line up a steep prow of decent height with a spicey top move. Everything I look for with a boulder problem. Ted showed us the way with a quick send having already done it in the past. I then got it 2nd go and then Ed smoothly flashed it. What a line! Ted then cooley balanced his way up China in your hands V8+ and The Jackalope V6. A great day out.
The other thing that I forgot to report was that we competed in the CWIFF a couple of weeknds ago down at the Works in Sheffield. Had a wicked day with Ed narrowly missing the Semi-final at 17th and me 34th.
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#61 Re: The Hamer Blog
March 18, 2011, 09:53:15 am
I like this blog
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#62 Summer is here...
April 13, 2011, 01:00:20 am
Summer is here...
12 April 2011, 6:32 pm
Right, its been a while since our last blog post. We've both been quite busy with work, training and other stuff that life throws at us. But have managed some quality days out on the crags.
First up was a visit down to Long tor Quarry near Matlock to check out the classic Ruby Fruit Jungle 8a. After a quick play on it and decent brush(it was filthy!). I surprised myself by nailing it second go in quite damp conditions! Its a neat litl route and defo worth checking out by any keen youth. Was psyched with the quick send and great to get the 8's rolling again.
Next up was a trip to Black Rocks on a roasting hot day last week! There I witnessed quite an amazing ascent of the stunning Gaia, by the Italian boulderer turn trad monster Michele Caminati. Basically it was too hot to climb and all we wanted to do was sun bathe!! Well he had other plans and pretty much walked up it. Quite incredible really due to it being in full sun. Full respect to the man. :)I was properly psyched for him. Anyways yeh we got some nice photo's and I managed to put my boots on to scetched my way up Camel Hot, a little known E6 6b round the corner. I got it 3rd go after a quick scrub on ab rope. A funky route, with more grit wierdness! Check out the great photo's Paul Bennett took on the day below all this waffle and for more see his Flickr page: travelswithmyt4's Photostream
Last news on the routes front was doing Masters of the Universe at Burbage South. At around E6 6b (if you dont mind the massive drop below you!) its one awesomely exposed line up a big arete where you start by abbing in to the lip of the roof, then clipping a couple of old bolts (backed up by ab rope)you let it rip from there on up! An amazing position to be in.
Right, thats it on my front. Will get Ed to update in abit.
See yal
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#63 Margalef Magic
May 07, 2011, 01:00:32 am
Margalef Magic
6 May 2011, 10:57 am
We have just returned home after an amazing 11 days in the pocket paradise that is Margalef in Northern Spain. Along with Rodellar, this is the best place we have climbed at. It really is that good (as long as you like pockets!). It is that awesome that we want to make a pilgrimage back out there every year from now on!
The climbing conditions were pretty much perfect, being cool in the shade and bright and sunny when you needed it with only the odd shower and one very heavy down pour, luckily it dries mega fast!
So anayway, we were staying at the chilled out Refugio in the village of Margalef run by Jordi and Miguel. From there we then visited all the best crags and tried tick off some of the incredible routes out there.
Here are the amazing crags we visited and the awesome routes ticked:
-Cova Soleida
Ment en Blanc 8a (Me 1st Rp, Ed flashed it)
Dr Feelgood 8a (Ed onsight, me 1st redpoint after falling from top!)
Esau Diresta 8a+ (Ed 1st Rp)
Anarkoreta 8a+ (Ed Rp)
Un-named groove 8a+ (Me Rp ard!)
-Espadelles, The Ceuse of Margalef!
Telemaster 8a (Ed onsight, me redpoint)
Transilvania 8a (Me 1st redpoint, Ed flash)
Brageutasso 8a+ (Ed 1st Rp)
Batuka 8b (Ed 1st Rp)
7c and 7c+ onsight from Ed
-El Laboratori aka The Lab!
Dawin Dixit 8b+ (Ed Rp)
Photo-shot 8b (Me Rp)
Zona 30 8b (Ed Rp)
Sarau Nocturn 8a (Me Rp)
7c and 7c+ onsight from Me
-Tenebres
Sativa Patatica 8a (Flashed me and Ed!)
2 7c's onsight
-Finestra
Flash Over 8b+ (Ed Rp)
Nina Mala 8b (Ed Rp)
Cubata+chupito 3euros 8b (Ed Rp)
Sargantana Killer 8a+ (Ed onsight!)
El Fustigador 8a+ (Me 1st Rp)
Dando brea 8a (Ed and I 1st Rp)
Aeroplastica 8a (Me Rp)
7c+ (Me Rp)
2 7c's, 3 7b+ (Me onsight)
It really was an amazing climbing trip. We even brushed sides with the likes of Sharma, Andrada, Camargo and a German 16 yr old who had just done his 1st 9a!
I've decided that with all these blog postings, that it's alot more interesting to have loads of inspiring photographs for people to get psyched by and abit of writing, than write alot of boring shit about every route and every move!
Its the Photographs that get people psyched to get out there!!
Enjoy...
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#64 Time for Lime
May 20, 2011, 07:00:08 pm
Time for Lime
20 May 2011, 10:30 am
Well since getting back from Spain a few weeks ago, its been all go on the Limestone sport front! Ed's been knuckling down to some hardcore training at the wall to get him ready for the Competition season to kick off. While I've been hitting the crags. Have had some great days out down at Chee dale, WCJ cornice, Dovedale and Malham. Ticks down in the Dale have been the short and sharp Entree 8a and desperate Unleashing the Wild Physigue 8a. Both routes being completely different styles and pretty tough for the grade.
Last week I had a quick hit trip to Malham with two other crushers being Caff and Ethan. We were lucky enough to be there the exact same time as the best climber in the world, Mr Adam Ondra! It was all abit surreal to be honest. We were camped right next to his tent at the campsite and I was on the same route as him (well, the easy first part anyway!!) All quite funny really. Anyway saw him warm up on Connect 5 8a+ and slip off the top of Overshadow! He made Overnight look about 7a!! Prett damn amazing. So yeh, we did manage to do some climbing ourselves with me ticking Overnight Sensation 8a+ and Yosemite wall. Caff did Connect 5 and onsighted Minimum Fuss 7c+ and almost did Power Ranger and Ethan nearly got Raindogs. A good couple of days.
Yesterday we all ventured down to check out Dovedale with Ethan, our local tour guide. First on the send train was Ron's amazing Eye of the Tiger up the centre of Ilam Rock. We decided to climb the route in a sport trad style as most of the gear is in-situ anyway from old pegs, threads and stuck wires. I got the route 2nd attempt after a quick abseil inspection. Its a fantastic route with a 'Big' feal about it topping out on a proper summit! Its relatively safe but still has some spicey run outs and definatly not a sport route!! As for the grade E6 6c seams fair, with about french 7c climbing. We then went further down the dale to check out Reynards arch. This is anouther amazing rock feature containing one of the best 7c+'s around, Arch Enemies. After doing a new 7a to the left we got stuck in to the main event with both me and Ed nailing it 2nd go. A brillinat find!
Right, thats it
Enjoy all the amazing dry crags out ther!
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#65 Yorkshire Hit & New Van!!
June 10, 2011, 01:00:09 pm
Yorkshire Hit & New Van!!
10 June 2011, 10:30 am
ED’s POST!!!!! -----------------
Just had a 5 day hit up in North Yorkshire at Malham and Kilnsey for my half term! This was to try out our amazing new van and see what were the good sides and bad for the up-coming euro road trip. We drove up on the Saturday morning and climbed everyday up to Wednesday evening. We were also treated with an amazing ascent of All Out 8b+ by Chris Savage!! The weather was not great to start off but gradually got better as the weekend ended. Our ticklist over the last week of climbing from Yorkshire and peak area included-
Ed-
The Jekyll (7c+ on sight)
Dead Calm (8a 2nd go)
Le Lapin (8a 2nd go)
Cold Steel (8a 2nd go)
Mid-Ledge Spread (8a+)
Soft Option (8a+ 2nd go)
Brick Top (8b)
La Connection (8b 2nd go)
Brief Encounter (8b)
Massala Martyr (8b)
Austrian Oak (8b)
Sam-
Myra Hindley (7c onsight)
This is the sea (7c+)
Zero Option (7c+)
The Jekyll (7c+ 2nd go)
Cold steel (8a)
Le Lapin (8a)
Dead Calm (8a 2nd go)
Soft Option (8a+)
Hot Flushes (8a)
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#66 CEUSE!!!!
July 31, 2011, 01:00:09 pm
CEUSE!!!!
22 July 2011, 4:26 pm
Was up everybody.....
We are at Ceuse and have been here for over 4 weeks now!!! We have had an amazing time out here doing loads of incedible routes, meeting some amazing people, doing alot of walking up and down the infamous hill and alot of chilling out in the sun!
What a beautiful place to be!!
Here are some of the incredible routes we've done so far:
My Ticklist:
La Femme Noir 7c (os)
Galaxy 7c (rp)
La Chose 7c (rp)
Berlin 7c (rp)
L' errance d'une Passion 7c (f)
Hyper Mickey 7c (rp)
Vagabond d'Occident 7c (onsight)
Blanches Fesses 7c (os)
Corps etranger 7c (os)
Les Rodhodendrons 7c+ (rp)
Teuchipa 7c (os)
Tenere 7c+ (os)
Privalige de serpent 7c+ (os)
Makach Walou 7c+ (os)
Mirage 7c+ (os)
Le Migicien de Riga 7c+ (rp)
Carte Blanche 8a (Redpoint)
Bourinator 8a (Redpoint)
Petit Tom 8a (rp)
Coulur du vent 8a (rp)
Les Collenetts 8a (rp)
L'ami Couette 8a (rp)
Dolce Vita 8a+ (rp)
La Femme Blanche 8a+ (rp)
Seurs Froids 8a+ (2nd go)
Ed's Ticklist:
Monnaie de singe 8a 3rd go,
Berlin 7c onsight,
Rodhodendrons 7c+ flash,
Galaxy 7c onsight,
Le privilege du serpent 7c+ onsight,
Mirage 7c+ onsight,
Petit tom 8a flash,
Radote joli pepere 8b 2nd go,
Blocage violent 7b+ onsight,
Dolce vita 8a+ 2nd go,
L'errance dune passion 7c onsight,
La couleur du vent direct 8a+ 2nd go,
La chose 7c onsight,
Le colenette 8a onsight,
Le magicien de riga 7c+ onsight,
Bibendum 7b+ onsight,
Bourinator 8a flash,
Carte blanche 8a flash,
Suerus froides 8a+ onsight,
Vagabond d'occident 7c onsight,
Blanche fesses 7c onsight,
Correspondence imaginaire 7c+ onsight,
Corpes etrager 7c onsight,
Violent illusion 8b 4th go,
Queue de rat 7b+ onsight,
Makach walou 7c+ onsight,
L'amie de tout le monde 8b 2nd go.
Ed goes today for a comp in Bulgaria while me and Ethan have a few more days left at Ceuse. Then Ethan heads home on wednesday and I head over to Arco for a few days then onwards to Zillertal in Austria for all of August. Super Pysched!!!!!
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#67 2nd leg....Austria
August 27, 2011, 01:00:37 am
2nd leg....Austria
26 August 2011, 7:32 pm
We are now in Austria chilling out in the little town of Imst in the Tirol region. We left Ceuse now over two weeks ago, stopping off at Arco in Italy for 3 days on the drive over. Ceuse ended awesomely with loads of people sending ther projects and getting some great end of trip photo’s of the routes. Arco was then fun on the way over where I had a few sessions up at Massone. It was awesome but way too hot for that time of year! Was much nicer to hit the pool at the campsite and have a celebrated Italian ice cream in the town!
Austria now is much different, a totally different scene over here. We have had a few days out on the rock in the Zillertal, Otzal, and Neiderthai checking out some wicked new areas and a few we had been to 3 years ago. The climbing here is so different from what we had got used to over in the South of France! Its all much shorter, more bouldery, pretty crimpy, tough on the skin and on ‘Gneiss’ rock!! Ed competed in the European Youth Comp in Imst a couple of weeks ago where he came 9th and has just qualified for the semi's in the Wold Cup this weeknd. Venga Vamos!!!!
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#68 Imst World Cup!!
September 14, 2011, 01:00:12 pm
Imst World Cup!!
14 September 2011, 10:40 am
Ed----
In between the outdoor climbing I did 3 competitions, 2 Europeans and 1 World Cup.
The first of the competitions was in Bulgaria. It was the 2nd EYC competition. I managed to come 4th place (my best in a European!!)
The 2nd of the competitions was in Austria, this was the 3rd EYC. I managed to make the final again but did not climb as well and came 10th at the end.
10 days after this it was the main event, The World Youth Climbing Cup, again this was held in Austria in Imst. It was a fantastic competition. This is by far the best competition result I have ever had!! I managed 2nd place in the final! VERY SYKED!!!! Before this my best World Cup placing was 17th!
Here's a stash of photo's from the comp, Check em out!!
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#69 End of Trip Goodness...shikading
September 15, 2011, 01:00:10 pm
End of Trip Goodness...shikading
15 September 2011, 10:09 am
Wow, two months and 10 days later and we are back home! Our epic European Road trip has come to an end and what an amazing trip it was. We visited so many amazing places, climbed some incredible routes and met so many awesome people from all over the world!
So, after the World Cup we then headed back down to the South of France, where we had a few days at the brilliant crag Orpierre ticking off a number of classics, including Ed boshing out his hardest of the trip being Je suis une Hyene 8b+. He also came very close on Mission Impossible 8c, which I am sure would go down fine next trip. We also met up with our good friend Ollie Ryall who was one of the first people to get us leading sport routes abroad. He lives out there and run's his own business Climbapiedia.
From there we went further south to the classic, old school crag of the 90’s Volx. We had a heard a few mixed stories about the crag, but wanted to check it out for our self. So yeh it’s polished, pretty old skool and not Ceuse but it’s still freaking awesome. We had a great couple of days there, cranking out some steep ass routes that never get wet! It’s a brilliant venue. Highlights were Heuco 7b+, Shoashing 8a and Ed fighting his way up Grotesque 8a+.
After Volx our final destination was to head up into the mountains to Briancon and hook up with a great guy that we had a met at Ceuse, David Falt. He kindly let us stay at his place for the last a few days of the trip and gave us a tour of all the best crags in the area. We checked out three very different crags all around Briancon, firstly Tournoux then Roche du Brume and the last day at Entregue. We managed to send some wicked routes at each crag with the best being Direct du Coeur 7c+, Cost of Freedom 8a, Espoir Karsherise 8a, La Cour des grands 7c and La Tordeuse de Melezes 8a. It was such a great end to our trip and a massive Big up to David, Camilla and Milton for letting us stay with them. Thanks so much guys, you were awesome! We shall be back for shore! And so all that was left for us to do was make the long drive back up to Calais, catch the ferry across to Dover and then the home straight to the glamorous village of Over Haddon!
Here are a few interesting stats from our trip:
• I drove our amazing van over 5000km through 3 countries!
• We walked up to Ceuse 25 times in a month!
• We climbed at more than 15 different crags
• Clipped the chains on around 300 routes, 65 of graded 8 and above!
• Used up 11 of the 350g Mega sized chalk bags!!
• Swam in 8 different pools/rivers/lakes
• And of course we ate loads baguettes, quite a few pizza’s and drunk a hell of a lot of Brewskys!!
E.N.J.O.Y!!!
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#70 Dirks Smiths Photo's
October 15, 2011, 01:00:27 pm
Dirks Smiths Photo's
14 October 2011, 6:03 pm
Here's the set of stunning photo's that a great guy from South Africa took when we were out at Ceuse and Orpierre this summer. They are an amazing set of climbing photographs taken by a true pro. Massive credit goes out to him for the time and effort he went into taking these shots. Cheers Buddy and see you out at Waterval Boven sometime!
Check out his web site too for more awesome photo's at
www.dirksmith.smugmug.com
Enjoy these stunners.....
Maman je vais mouris 7c
Carte Blanche 8a
Strong dude on 8c
L'ami Caouette 8a
Early morning chess game
Andy on Changement du look 7b+
Ethan taking the swing
Ethan on 7c+
Crux Dyno
Ed on Maman
Ceuse View!
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#71 Autumn Update
October 22, 2011, 07:00:10 pm
Autumn Update
22 October 2011, 4:14 pm
Ed on Swonrn Enemy 8a
Ethan after the crux
Me!
Here's a quick update from what we've been up to over the last month since getting back from our summer roadtrip.
We've had a few sessions out on the limestone with the most noteworthy thing being our ascent's of JC's new route down in sleepey Dove Dale. Sworn Enemy must rank as one of the best 8a's in the Peak with some great moves through steep ground, on an amazing arch feature! Word up to JC for his vision in cleaning, bolting and sending this line.
Ed's also been ticking his way through the usual limstone boulder nasties down at Rubicon, Stoney and Nuda's. Hannibal V9 at Stoney and Dancing fish V11 at Rubicon being the 'favorites'...
Apart from that, just getting back into the training shizzzle.
Oh and I also spent the last 11 days out in the Horn of Africa visiting my dad in the amazing country of Eritrea and then the Sudan! Two incredible places with amazing beauty, history and culture. Check out all the photo's from the trip....
Yo!
Desert Tortoise chilling
Local welcome
Sudanese Desert
Hassai Mine
Port Sudan Airport
Our Ride!
Japanese Mine shaft
Asmara Lunch
Geo-Congress Meal
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#72 South Side!
November 02, 2011, 06:00:14 pm
South Side!
28 October 2011, 12:15 pm
Have been out on the grit a few times this last week, with a couple of visits to Burbage South, sending the awesomely exposed Offspring (E5 6b) on the Cioch block and getting a team send of the notorious man eating, off-width that is GOLIATH (E4 5c). Well infact its not that bad and you can just layback it!! Unless your just plain wierd and like going deep!
Check out the video's too
Enjoy...
from
Alex Mason
on
Vimeo
.
from
Wild Country
on
Vimeo
.
Ethan discovering new Bloc's!
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#73 Churning Churnet...
November 08, 2011, 06:00:11 pm
Churning Churnet...
8 November 2011, 4:16 pm
So last weekend we headed up to Lakes to do a slide show presentation for the Fell & Rock Climbing Club, at a fancy hotel in Shapwells. It was all a bit unexpected but considering it was our first talk everything went pretty smoothly! We showed everyone some cool photographs and talked about some memorable routes and trips we had been on. Saturday morning we then headed over to check out the new Kendal climbing wall, which was having its opening do. The wall was awesome, very futuristic and definitely worth a look if you’re in the area.
Sunday we were back in the Peak’s, well actually Staffordshire were we headed over to check out the sandstone climbing of The Churnet. So, yeh we had a cracking day out with the first line to go down was the amazing
The Pride (E6 6b
). This ranks as one of the best routes we have ever done. An amazing solo through a steep roof and wall above. Ed stepped up first and cranked his way to the top, I then followed. What a gem! Next to go down was the Master’s edge of Staffordshire,
Sole Survivor (E5 6b
) in the dank quarry round the corner. This again was a wicked route up a steep arête, with fairly good gear and great moves the whole way. Was great finding these esoteric gem’s away from all the crowds! Last place on the visit was Wrights rock, which was brilliant bouldering venue with loads of steep, burly problems of all grades, all next door to each other. Did some cool lines such as
Simple Simon(V8), Thumbs(V9), Wrights trav(V8), Bhodi(V7).
This really was a class venue and one of the few places I’ve been to which got me psyched for bouldering! Keen to head back soon!
Scary V6
Simple Simon
Sole Survivor
The Pride!
the decent crux!
Spicey times
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#74 Bit of this & that
December 02, 2011, 12:00:21 pm
Bit of this & that
1 December 2011, 9:37 am
As for getting outside on the rock, well the weather again has been pretty unhelpful recently! When we’ve planned to head out its pissed it down and blown a tornado in, and when it’s been decent we’ve been busy doing something else! Quite a frustrating few weeks to be honest. But anyways we have managed a few ticks.
Last week I had a quick hit trip down to Nesscliffe, to have a couple of days climbing with globetrotting explorer Finn McCann. I hadn’t seen him in over a year as he’s been living in the jungles of Honduras and walking across the Greenland ice cap! Although he hadn’t tied into a rope for a year and had barely climbed at all in that time he was still as strong as ever and psyched to get back on the rock. So yeh we got a wicked E5 6b done, called Trouble in Toytown, which worked its way up an amazing corner. I also tried a couple of harder lines but they were just abit damp and green. Need to head back next summer! I also did the cool traverse Little Northumberland (V9), a great crimpy test piece.
Finn stetching out...
Top crux
Trouble in Toytown
Hey Pippa!
Since getting back, me and Ethan have been out a couple of times, ticking the savage crack climb Reticent Mass Murderer (E4/5 6b) up at Cratcliffe and a first visit to Hen Cloud where I managed to scare myself up the incredible Master of Reality (E6 6c).
Reality Success!!
Running it out...
Get that gear in!
Bored and cold!
Last but not least we have built an amazing new woody in our garage!! No excuses now hey, Gamba Gamba!!!>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Raaaarrrr!
Board of Over Haddon!
Pinch dat shizz!
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