[Steve R]

Had a spin on this yesterday but struggled to come up with a way to match the lip of the roof.  Managed the span/throw out to a small hold on the lip with right hand (right foot bomber heel-toe)  but got a bit stumped from there.  Any sequence knowledge much appreciated as might find myself back there before long.  Also, foot beta for the initial pull on move to the jugs would be good!?
cheers

[nodder]

For the initial pull on you can put your left foot on the wobbly jug thing out to left, for the match cant remember maybe left foot comes up to a spikey bit in the break and does a drop knee? maybe..

[Steve R]

maybe left foot comes up to a spikey bit in the break and does a drop knee?

right, thanks.  If that's the way, it's simply a case of me needing to be stronger and/or fresher and/or colder.  Was wondering/hoping there might be a trick to it but nevermind.  Nice problem by the way   

[cofe]

you can RF toe hook to match when left foot is on the spike to help match the lip, then walk feet around the back. helps to be tall/not short.

[Pantontino]

I know it's Nodders problem, but I've always considered the start to be better (and harder) if you start with your left foot on a smear at the back. The kung fu kick to the wobbly block (once you've latched the next hold) is one of my favourite moves.

The lip match itself is not too bad, but gaining the good hold above the lip is the real redpoint crux. If you've got good body tension you should be able to walk your feet through and still hold it.

If you are tall you can match the lip with the footlock still in then make a quick snatch to the good hold. You're foot will rip as you do this, but as long as you tuck your legs up it should be okay.

If you're still struggling with the finish, try one of the other link exits from the cave. Doing the start of SD then reversing the roof crack and exiting the roof on the right is brilliant and about 7B/+.

[nodder]

but I've always considered the start to be better (and harder) if you start with your left foot on a smear at the back. The kung fu kick to the wobbly block (once you've latched the next hold) is one of my favourite moves.

Yep agree but thought giving beta meant showing people the easy way.  I did it how you described for the fa it was scouse d who came up with the other beta, downgrading it from 7b+ to 7b in the process before it crept back up as more short people tried it.  One day a mutant will do the sitter and the line will be complete. 

[Scouse D]

Very surprised that the wobbly jug foothold is still there! I thought at the time (2002?) that it had about 2 more goes in it before it would rip off (i was certainly scared when using it). It must have survived thousands since then.
The heel toe beta is also 'new' since the first few ascents. For the move to the lip Right foot used to go straight in front of you on the big smooth hold and drop knee to reach lip with a poor left toe hook to match. This was certainly harder beta than the heel toe which makes the lip move steady away.
Good problem Nodder!

[Jim]

I broke off the best bit of the lip hold broke off this last year. Sorry

[cofe]

dutch thought it had changed when we there in the spring. i was adamant it hadn't. shows what i know.

[Dutch]

I knew I couldn't have been any weaker!

[Pantontino]

I broke off the best bit of the lip hold broke off this last year. Sorry

Checked this out last night - a clean break on the right side of the hold. Defo 7B+ now!