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K3 (Read 3472 times)

Peanuts

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K3
July 05, 2010, 01:54:23 pm
Being an intrinsically weak stamina plodder,  this one should be a bit of a stretch for me. So lay all your valuable cheating beta on me  and you will surely be repaid in an avalanche of karma ;)

For the record, I haven't even fondled the starting holds so it's a clean sheet.

Bonjoy

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#1 Re: K3
July 05, 2010, 02:20:21 pm
For this beta you need to be wearing two kneepads.
Bish bosh up to big undercut (someone else can give you beta for this bit). From matched on first big undercut (clip 3rd from here, it’s easier to clip the higher bolt on 42 as the lower one is too close to your body, this also means you can skip the next bolt if you need to save the energy), LH pinching top, RH undercutting in middle (palm turned up i.e. not gaston style) – LF fully rotated dropknee on high spike, static to first edge then little pop to flatty, drop LF out of dropknee and bring RF into solid heel-toe lock in big undercut. Re-arrange hands so RH on big flatty, LF polished black boss, LH poorish low undercut, swap to RF on black boss, LF smear on lip, drop RH into funny (slightly sharp) sidepull, now step LF high onto flat smear below an old bolt which isn’t clipped and slot knee ito kneebar on big umbrella undercut, reach LH static to far ‘pancake’ undercut, swap legs in kneebar and shake out by matching the pancake. The rest is fairly standard and easy to work out.

north_country_boy

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#2 Re: K3
July 05, 2010, 02:33:27 pm
For this beta you need to be wearing two kneepads.
Bish bosh up to big undercut (someone else can give you beta for this bit). From matched on first big undercut (clip 3rd from here, it’s easier to clip the higher bolt on 42 as the lower one is too close to your body, this also means you can skip the next bolt if you need to save the energy), LH pinching top, RH undercutting in middle (palm turned up i.e. not gaston style) – LF fully rotated dropknee on high spike, static to first edge then little pop to flatty, drop LF out of dropknee and bring RF into solid heel-toe lock in big undercut. Re-arrange hands so RH on big flatty, LF polished black boss, LH poorish low undercut, swap to RF on black boss, LF smear on lip, drop RH into funny (slightly sharp) sidepull, now step LF high onto flat smear below an old bolt which isn’t clipped and slot knee ito kneebar on big umbrella undercut, reach LH static to far ‘pancake’ undercut, swap legs in kneebar and shake out by matching the pancake. The rest is fairly standard and easy to work out.


That sounds like the kind of sequence I would expect from 'The lord of all things funky', Mr Fullwood!  :)

Peanuts

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#3 Re: K3
July 05, 2010, 03:19:20 pm
Bonjoy, I am truely impressed with your encyclopedic knowledge, however I am simultaneously worried by the references to knee bars and toe-heel locks after a somewhat traumatic experience on Chimes I was hoping to avoid more of the same. I am also slightly perturbed by NCB's reference to your beta as 'funky'  still nothing ventured nothing gained, so it's hitting the printer as we speak (type)  :thumbsup:

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: K3
July 05, 2010, 03:33:03 pm
You asked for cheating beta for the intrinsically weak, that's what I gave you. For what it's worth I didn't like the heel toe on Chimes (hurt my knee) and thought the kneebar was a pointless red herring (could be a leg length thing).

shark

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#5 Re: K3
July 05, 2010, 04:48:06 pm
Being an intrinsically weak stamina plodder,  this one should be a bit of a stretch for me. So lay all your valuable cheating beta on me  and you will surely be repaid in an avalanche of karma ;)
For the record, I haven't even fondled the starting holds so it's a clean sheet.

I think its only fair for everyone else that only one weak stamina plodder should be on this route at any one time.

The following beta is therfore provided on the strict understanding that your rota should only include Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays:

1.   LH gaston Rope in front LF on ledge RF square cut hold RH thin undercut LF to tiered ledge LH to nasty crimp/thumb on top RF bridged drop knee slightly RH to main undercut+pinch RF in LF in LH to smaller undercut RF in LF up to slabby bit between bulges RF to ticked hold under bulge Stretch with LH to big pinch RF outside edge up to nasty crimp LF dabbing around LF to smear RH hand thru to cup and crimp undercut (CLIP higher bolt on 42)

2. RF in on sicaed hold LF very high drop knee. LH up to intermediate then left to good edge LF down to large slopey black foothold RH adjust to pinch RF up to heel/toe RH to slopey edge (Miss out clip) LF to shelf RH cross thru to sidepull RF leaves heel/toe and onto nobble on lip LH to undercut LF up to big foothold press up on legs and twist right a bit LHhard to big undercut RF cross thru to dimple LF smear RH slap to undercut pancake RK up into kneebar (CLIP) alternating hands in big left undercut to shake out

3.   LF out to dimple chalk RH up to pinch LF in to smear RF to tickmarked hidden  foothold  LF up to edge over overlap by left hand LH thru to gaston RF up to gnarly foothold drop knee Push thru positively to edge RH LF out fairly low LH up to sidehold LF in a bit RF to good edge LF up RH to good hold LF up high to sit on hold CLIP WITH L

4.   LH to sidehold in groove RF thru LF on poorish hold RF up to main edge
5.   RH 2 fingers thumb over top into awkward hold LF stab foot out to bridge out LH to poor sidehold RH gaston RF bounce up to big hold LH up to sloping jug Shake CLIP WITH R
6.   Lurch RH to good sidehold LF edge RF edge LF onto awkward hold LH thru to jug share  RF up rock in LH to jug Clip belay

(Did you get your project at the Tor or have you given up on finding early am partners?)



Peanuts

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#6 Re: K3
July 05, 2010, 05:06:16 pm
Wow ! :bow:

and I thought Bonjoy was comprehensive !

Naturally I will try to ensure that a strict 'weak plodder' schedule is maintained, however, should our paths/ropes cross I will of course demur to your superior investment  ;)

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(Did you get your project at the Tor or have you given up on finding early am partners?)


My tor project is now safely stored in the tortured memory bank  :dance1:

 

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