V5 to V7 seems a pretty good result in 12 months. When thinking about training its easy to go round and round in circles trying to decide what to do for maximum effect especially with conflicting advice from different directions. Your 'analysis' and 'data' isnt really that in a rigorous sport science sense and even if it was optimal guidance would be tricky even from a coach. But in general what you have done works so just refine and tweak it and keep experimenting especially as individual responses will vary. If you perceive you have weaknesses that will keep you from your goals then work on them. If there is a specific project you desire train for it specifically. Clearly as you get stronger you will need to physically apply yourself harder or more often or both to keep eliciting physical gains.
(Didn't Malcolm go from 7c+ to 8c+ in a season by climbing on a board?)
When thinking about training its easy to go round and round in circles trying to decide what to do for maximum effect especially with conflicting advice from different directions.
Your 'analysis' and 'data' isnt really that in a rigorous sport science sense and even if it was optimal guidance would be tricky even from a coach.
But in general what you have done works so just refine and tweak it and keep experimenting especially as individual responses will vary. If you perceive you have weaknesses that will keep you from your goals then work on them. If there is a specific project you desire train for it specifically. Clearly as you get stronger you will need to physically apply yourself harder or more often or both to keep eliciting physical gains.
I don't agree that the best way of training is to try different things ad infinitum and hope that I get better. It's basically what I do - but it's a bit crap. It's not what a 400m runner would do I don't think. It also contrasts with the specific problem part of your advice: train specifically. How exactly, when I'm just trying stuff and seeing what works? How do I do that specifically?
I can't prove that alternating my wanking hand each day wouldn't have produced similar gains in contact strength...
I don't agree that the best way of training is to try different things ad infinitum and hope that I get better. It's basically what I do - but it's a bit crap. It's not what a 400m runner would do I don't think. It also contrasts with the specific problem part of your advice: train specifically. How exactly, when I'm just trying stuff and seeing what works? How do I do that specifically?The problem I have is that I have no idea if I'm doing the right stuff - I combine a load of books and theory with some shit off the interweb and create a training routine. Garbage in, garbage out. It appears to work a bit - but hell, as you pointed out I have no control and so frankly, I can't prove that alternating my wanking hand each day wouldn't have produced similar gains in contact strength
But in general what you have done works so just refine and tweak it and keep experimenting especially as individual responses will vary.
I don't agree that the best way of training is to try different things ad infinitum and hope that I get better.
welcome to the internet where people tend to disagree with each other.
Quote from: Serpico on June 29, 2010, 09:55:50 amAs has already mentioned, the training you're doing has clearly worked for you, but even if it's the perfect regime for you you won't continue to make gains at the same rate as time goes on. I think the worst thing you could do when that happens is to presume that it's no longer working and abandon it in favour of something else.This a really good point (amongst other good points) worth highlighting. Some of the quick strength gains that are made are neural learning to do the move/exercise type ones that come and go quickly. When these plateau out it is tempting to move on to something else more gratifying. The 'real' strength gains if you keep at it will be slower in coming and also the longer you work them the less easily you lose them. Given that you are frustrated at a good rate of progress how will you deal with plateauing ?- which is inevitable - that's when the real grind starts. Shit I got suckered in again. In general if you keep doing what you do and focus on upping the load one way or another through intensity, density or frequency and keep an open, enquiring mind and learn and adjust as you go along then that is as good a formula to continual sustained improvement as I can suggest in a few words. Climbers are forever looking for a single magic bullet and there isnt usually just one. Unless you are Omar.
As has already mentioned, the training you're doing has clearly worked for you, but even if it's the perfect regime for you you won't continue to make gains at the same rate as time goes on. I think the worst thing you could do when that happens is to presume that it's no longer working and abandon it in favour of something else.
Quote from: SharkBut in general what you have done works so just refine and tweak it and keep experimenting especially as individual responses will vary. Quote from: LundI don't agree that the best way of training is to try different things ad infinitum and hope that I get better. Just how did you manage to translate the former to the latter? I wish I hadn't wasted my time now giving a considered response.
rather than searching for scientific answers to check out what's good and bad about it, I should just get on with it, as it's obviously working
I'm slightly concerned that continuing down the same style of path will not continue to produce gains at the same rate - I don't know where on the curve I am, nor can I see the shape of the curve from the "data".
Put another way... let's say I wanted to do Jerry's roof. 15 moves or so on overhanging non-crimpy rock. Should I add some endurance work, or just get fecking strong so that it's easy as I'm sooo powerful?
Quote from: shark on June 29, 2010, 11:43:32 amQuote from: Serpico on June 29, 2010, 09:55:50 amAs has already mentioned, the training you're doing has clearly worked for you, but even if it's the perfect regime for you you won't continue to make gains at the same rate as time goes on. I think the worst thing you could do when that happens is to presume that it's no longer working and abandon it in favour of something else.This a really good point (amongst other good points) worth highlighting. Some of the quick strength gains that are made are neural learning to do the move/exercise type ones that come and go quickly. When these plateau out it is tempting to move on to something else more gratifying. The 'real' strength gains if you keep at it will be slower in coming and also the longer you work them the less easily you lose them. Given that you are frustrated at a good rate of progress how will you deal with plateauing ?- which is inevitable - that's when the real grind starts. Shit I got suckered in again. In general if you keep doing what you do and focus on upping the load one way or another through intensity, density or frequency and keep an open, enquiring mind and learn and adjust as you go along then that is as good a formula to continual sustained improvement as I can suggest in a few words. Climbers are forever looking for a single magic bullet and there isnt usually just one. Unless you are Omar. hahaha. this is quite an interesting post, but i do think the solution is probably training to do more one armers.