[shark]

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.3-4

M.Eve. Cornice. K3 occupied and it was a bit too warm so had a mileage session
T.Eve. Foundry with boys. Started working on a PE circuit on the woodie that Keith showed me
W.
T. Eve Cornice. Good session on K3 felt strooong.
F.
S. Cornice. Tried K3 but too hot and not quite recovered from thurs proabably. Eve 
S. Hangover.

This weather's too damned hot for me. 2 good sessions at Cornice and 1 disappointing one. Weight range good. The first joint of my left index finger and pad are getting sorer from the first crimp on K3 also seem to be getting first twinges of golfers in left too. Might have to sort out a diffrent way to do the start.
 

[roddersm]

STG Goals:

Trad: Pitchfork Wit E1, Birdie, sightseer both E2, Elvis (again) E3 , The Barb E1, The Borg Assimilated my mars bar E3 .
Rail Road E1, Marconi E3 5c, Equinox E2 5C, GBH, Jolly Roger E3 , Zodiac E2 5c, Thank you and goodbye E3 6a , Roadkill E2 5c,
Other Fish E4 6b, New route E4/5 
Boulder: Chubbs Peterson 7a(+?) , Carbide 7a, Left Overs 7a+ , Split arete 6b+
sport onsight multiple 7as. debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ and lots of other good routes in the verdon. 7a at Buoux and/or Ceuse.

LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: Onsight 7b. rp 7c. Climb lots of stuff in Verdon, Ceuse, Buoux and Siurana.
Boulder: At least 7C .

Mon  Run 50 min
Tue   Rest
Wed  Run 50 min. Watch Pearl Jam at the Odessey. Awesome.
Thur  Climbing on old school outdoor climbing wall 2 hrs.
Fri     Run 50 min
Sat   Work a potential new line on Top rope. Will be about E5 6b. Get rained off before getting on the lead and doing Zodiac.
Sun  Pissing down. Moon Fingerboard and bar session weighted ( + 10 - 30 lbs) deadhangs, lock offs and pullups. 1 hour. Run 50 min.

Disappointed not to get anything led this week. Psyched to have found this potential new line
Its pretty hard and bold but reckon I'll lead it next time. Running well and feeling fit and strong(for me!).
Forecast not great for next few days but immediate goals are Zodiac, Other Fish and this new route.

[Barratt]

STG: Full recovery from ac joint/tendon injury.
LTG: Consolidate 7a, bag some 7b's

Mon: A) Rehab exercises with light weights. B) Bench press, upward row, dead lift - as a horizontal stack (10x10x10 x 3). C) Weighted pull ups, bicep curls, shoulder press - as a horizontal stack (10x10x10 x 3). D) Other stuff to finish: 50, 40, 30, 20, 10 Sit Ups.
Tues: Bouldering@Works, power endurance on 20° board.
Wed: Match, beer... way too much beer!
Thurs: Rest
Fri: Stoney, minus ten and a visit to carls walk to re look at traverse, positive.
Sat: Rest
Sun: Bouldering@Works, power endurance on 20° board.

Another good week and a more progress being made. Shoulder is still a way off, it will no doubt get there in time, given I don't get too carried away.

[iain]

STG: Holiday and OTBT
MTG: Onsight 7b
LTG: Infinite Gravity, Freaky Ralph

Mon. Repeaters and 5 mile run
Tues. some ARC'ing, didn't feel good so short sesh
Wed. yoga am, fingerboard (good) and 5 mile run
Thurs. yoga am, Tried to come up with some PE circuits at the wall, seemed to go ok although possibly a little too short
Fri. yoga am
Sat. Kept falling off State of Play and got spanked on an easier line I'd done before even though they were both in the shade. I'm hoping Heat/humidity 1, me 0. The mist that rolled in didn't help either.
Sun. Walk, ice cream and bbq 

Won't go back State of Play in near future unless conditions are considerably better. Will concentrate on getting some good PE over the next 3 weeks before holiday to Scotland in the hope old project is dry and I get ok conditions.
Oh, and have done yoga on and off for years, just don't normally put it on here. However, feeling tight and it's affecting my climbing movement so will be a little more disciplined with it over next few weeks.

[tomtom]

STG 7B+

M: Rest
T: Almscliff - got there at 10:30 and it was still way too hot... slip slided my way around the regulars...
W: meetings
T: Travelling back from meetings
F: More meetings
S: Cheeky early sat morning Beastmaker session
Su: Travel, football, depression

Its really hard to get motivated in this weather. Hayfever prevents me doing too much else outside (e.g. riding) and grit wise everywhere seems hot and slimey..

[chris05]

M: short bouldering session at churnet
T: 4m run, core work, press ups and push-ups
W: beer and football
T: 4m run
F: 4m run 7 core
S: churnet bouldering
S: 4m run, beer and football 

Its been an ok week, i've been running quite well but couldn't get motivated for a long run this weekend due to the heat. Probably a good thing that england are out as my alcohol consumption can now return to normal! Elbows seem to be good for long bouldering days now as long as I take good rests. Still cant climb more than one day on though. Fingers are still feeling tweaky so laying off the fingerboard for now. Going to try to get back to swimming to get fit for a surf trip in october.

[webbo]

Mon.wall reasonable session repeated all the problems i've previously done.
Tue.nowt.
Wed.wall boiling hot did a circuit of 2 x 20 problems up to v6.
Thu. nowt.
Fri. wall warmed up and worked one of the problems i'd not done.red pointed it first go despite intially not being able to do the moves.pleased with myself.
Sat.took roof of garden shed to help missus repair it.out on my bike 21/2 hours hilly.
Sun.painting shed and putting roof back on.out on bike 21/2 hours flat.
seem to be climbing ok depite the heat and begining to look like budda.need to get my diet sorted.

[uptown]

I need some motivation and SYKE to achieve my 2010 climbing goals (plus some partners / belayers) and thought this might be a good relaxed way to find them? The only trouble is I don't think I do any training (apart from actual climbing) - would I be in a good place here or do I need to start running, biking, crunching and curling to join in?
???

[Luthor]

STG - Gain more experience sport climbing (F7's), find some new projects :-)
MTG - Consolidate V7/V8 (Winter / Grit :-)

M:
T: Light bouldering session at Works
W: Went back to WCJ Cornice and Brachiation Dance, managing to pull it out of the bag at end of night - result!
T: Attempted to climb at the Works but felt trashed.
F:
S:
S: Did a few circuits + problems on 20 deg board at works, very light session.

Really good week - well happy with a F7b+ tick, a significant new PB for me. Felt loads better than last week (mix of familiarity/psyche/encouragement?). Felt totally trashed afterwards (note to self: need to  refuel better after hard session..) Looking fwd to getting out again and getting on some new projects.

[tomtom]

I need some motivation and SYKE to achieve my 2010 climbing goals (plus some partners / belayers) and thought this might be a good relaxed way to find them? The only trouble is I don't think I do any training (apart from actual climbing) - would I be in a good place here or do I need to start running, biking, crunching and curling to join in?
???

Why not.. the only other training I do is drinking and watching TV  Its just as much a training log as a motivational tool...

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 61kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.

M: Rest day.
T: Missed my usual bouldering session due to massive flapper being in no state to climb with. Walked up Whernside instead - great sunset at the top.
W: Low on time but did an experimental extended 'burner' (introducing 50 dumbbell curls with 12kg per arm). Completed despite arms feeling like they may actually snap in 8mins 45secs.
T: Easy routes at Moughton Nab with taped up finger. Skin held up okay (hail to the magic udder cream, which seems to be the business in terms of speedy healing).
F: Rest Day
S: Walk in the Lakes. 6.5 miles. Starting to wonder if we might be banking too many of our sunny-weather-credits early on in the summer. This is the north west!...
S: Down to Malham to meet Robbie with team Scotland. Very hot (as expected) but did all the moves on Yosemite Wall (I'm sure the conditions add a couple of grades!!). Left to watch the football before the shade came round for a proper redpoint go... what a mistake that was! 


Yosemite Wall has been one of those routes I've hankered after trying for a long time but always been a little too intimidated by the combination of length and steepness to get on it. Really glad I did though as it lived up to its stars. Very keen to get back and try it in better conditions now.

[shark]

I need some motivation and SYKE to achieve my 2010 climbing goals (plus some partners / belayers) and thought this might be a good relaxed way to find them? The only trouble is I don't think I do any training (apart from actual climbing) - would I be in a good place here or do I need to start running, biking, crunching and curling to join in?
???

If you find it useful and commit to posting each week you're in.

Nice work ticking R n' P  BTW 

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7b+, 7B, E4.
Goal for June - Foulish Ghoulish (pen trwyn), Body Torque (pt), Foil/Stroll On/Quasar (pass), climb one of the two new routes I've been cleaning.

m. very light session at indi. Stretching.
t. training power at indi, trying to replicate pinch moves on project.
w. Couple of routes in the p.m. on Pen Trwyn.
t. Worked proj in the p.m. Got it all linked after some good suggestions from Si. Ready for the lead.
f. nowt.
s. Trying proj, didn't have the power needed, maybe due to only 3 hrs sleep night before and maybe too humid. Took the fall friom near the end of the crux though and it's scary but pretty safe with a soft catch. Belay duty at the cromlech afterwards.
s. Watched eleven individuals getting schooled by one team, load of fucking shit.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Climb summat a bit tricky... sometime

M: Morning yoga
T: Bouldering @ Stoney - Very nearly did 7a+ish thing, did some things I'd not done before and made up a couple of problems to replicate the undercut move on TSIABPB that I found hard.
W: Tired! Did morning yoga and cycled to work.
T: Session on Beginers Wall - Utterly shut down! Finger hurt on move into undercut, couldn't bring myself to throw for slot/jug from pocket with LH (blamed dodgy finger but could be just being weak). Did feel pretty trashed afterwards tho so hopefully did me some good (physically... Ego was crushed tho )
F: Morning yoga
S: Morning yoga - walk around legoland for 8 hours!
S: Eat too much meat.. Watch crap football.

Bah! Too hot, crap finger, weak... blah blah blah!

Next week: Try harder!

[Charles]

Finally climbed again. Went up to the crag at Simon's Seat on Sunday and bimbled around on a couple of Severe's and a 3* VS. A good morning out before the football.

Psyche has been rekindled. Training for Mallorca in September starts now.

[JamesD]

Crap week, my stomach has been a mess and I could hardly keep food down, just about got better today as I type this, went swimming a couple of times but not in the mood for much else, off to croatia for next week so hoping I can get some climbing in there.

[Nibile]

good week all in all. less training and more rock, and this is good.
mon - rest
tue - gym session. mainly on the 60°.
wed - top roping session. did a 7b+ 2nd go, then tired.
thu - rest.
fri - rest.
sat - bouldering at amiata new sector!!! good vibes!!!
sun - bouldering at amiata new sector!!! tired and poor skin but two problems went down!!!

comments. i feel a bit tired and it's boiling here. i was still a bit pumped from all the weights, but felt decent in the gym. good bouldering in the weekend although very hot. i wonder  the grade of the new problems, but nothing hard for sure. my elbow is definitely getting better, so i will nurse it and will keep this promising path.

[chillax]

STG: E3
MTG: E4
LTG: E7

Mon: 2 hours on traverse at white rocks
Tues: 1 hour on traverse
Wed: nil
thurs: zilch
fri: squat
sat: dick all
sun: Good day. Went to dalkey and soloed lots of easy routes. Did some of them 5 or 6 times, just moving nicely and feeling the flow. Tied on and did the ghost again, lovely little route. Drove out to howth to the new cave venue. Got lost on the walk in and spent about 2 hours bushwhacking, worth it though. Spent about 2 hours climbing in the cave and was beat. Finally Ireland has a proper steep bouldering spot, like a min Ali-Babas an hour from the city. Pity it was discovered while i'm living 5 hours drive away! Got home at 2.30 am, completely knackered.

[cmerch]

Goals: The usual, climb harder than before
Mon: 5 mile run and cut the grass
Tues: Campus board
Wed: 3 mile run, lift a few weights and pull-ups
Thurs: Climb at Sandrock, 2 easy routes, then do two 7a's
Fri: Thunder and lighting, slack off
Sat: 5 mile race, 40 mins, watched USA get outclassed in the World Cup
Sun: Work and take the boat out on the river
Still very hot outside, sweat off small holds, "It's not the heat, it's the humidity."

[uptown]

If you find it useful and commit to posting each week you're in.
Nice work ticking R n' P  BTW 

I'll give it a go. Cheers Shark and tomtom.

LTGs  - New high 8 bloc, sport and trad - uncertain of grades but all very hard, and very good. 8c.
MTGs - The dirty dozen sport list.
STGs - Lots. (depending on partners.)

Mon - nowtup.
Tues - Kilnsey. Felt very unfit after my week en France eating pastry and cheese and drinking wine. Tried one of my projects and made some progress for saying it was so hot. Respect to Elmo flying up UA and FT in a butterfly vest!
Wed - nowtup.
Thurs - Cornice. K3 woohoo, first 8a+. Respect to JB's beta and knee pads!
Fri - nowtup.
Sat - Cornice. R'n'P woohoo, second 8a+. Respect to the old skool faces, long time, no see, especially Seb - at the same crag, under the same route, 16 years on!
Sun - nowtup.

First time I've climbed properly for 3 days in a week in at least a decade, really enjoyable, and probably quite necessary if the LTG's are to be achievable.

[chris_j_s]

Wow! Two 8a+'s in a three days, having not done three days on in a week for over a decade seems gobsmackingly impressive! 

How do you manage to keep your finger strength, endurance etc. etc. at the necessary levels with so few days on and what appears to be no supplemental training whatsoever? 

[Three Nine]

Goals as usual, with the ST priority being to sort out the onsighting and be onsighting UK 7bs.

M Rest, cardio 30 mins run
T S Wales milage up to 7a+
W S Wales milage up to 7b+ (redpoint)
T Rest, cardio 30 mins run
F Rest, cardio 30 mins run (skin infection on hand, hence double rest day)
S Sketching about on milage above the sea in Dorset up to 7a+ (had forgotten how much i love it)
S as for Sat

[iain]

Wow! Two 8a+'s in a three days, having not done three days on in a week for over a decade seems gobsmackingly impressive! 

How do you manage to keep your finger strength, endurance etc. etc. at the necessary levels with so few days on and what appears to be no supplemental training whatsoever? 

That is impressive, especially that it's your first 8a+'s. Care to share what you've been doing for the <3 days a week? Not so much that there's no supplemental stuff, just that a max of 2 days a week doesn't seem enough to produce gains, (cause I know so much about these things  )

[slackline]

That is impressive, especially that it's your first 8a+'s. Care to share what you've been doing for the <3 days a week? Not so much that there's no supplemental stuff, just that a max of 2 days a week doesn't seem enough to produce gains, (cause I know so much about these things  )

Thurs - Cornice. K3 woohoo, first 8a+. Respect to JB's beta and knee pads!

Sounds like it was technique in the form of some beta in this instance.

I was reading that you don't need to train/exercise very much to maintain a given level of fitness, so if uptown used to climb at around this level but has only been pottering around for a while then he may have maintained that level.

I'll shut up now and let the man speak for himself.

[uptown]

Sounds like it was technique in the form of some beta in this instance.

I was reading that you don't need to train/exercise very much to maintain a given level of fitness, so if uptown used to climb at around this level but has only been pottering around for a while then he may have maintained that level.

I'll shut up now and let the man speak for himself.

Slackers is right, beta and technique (mainly footwork/kneework and resting/breathing) got me up these.
I'm sure I could have done 8a+ years ago, but due to circumstance (and mindset) have only just started setting goals and climbing more after a long layoff. My pottering around would be grit traversing - no better winter training for sport climbing IMHO. Anyhow, I've only just joined this club so don't want to wax too much - carry on as normal and wish me luck in achieving my goals.

[iain]

wish me luck in achieving my goals.

Absolutely  , and thanks for the reply

[nai]

Stg – go climbing, improve PE
Mtg – go bouldering
Ltg - repeat til fade....

M –
T – Baslow - highballing, soloing, bouldering, all good stuff.  Very close to The Ripper but couldn’t get my left foot onto the hold for the last/hard move.
W – returned to Baslow to finish off The Ripper, use a different foothold and it goes quickly – cool problem.
Th  - ARC experiment at home – 10 min row, 15 min laddering, 5 min row.  Mild buzz in forearms but not sure it’s a success.
Fr – Circuits on a shunt then lots of gardening.
SS zip

Poor week really, finished the Baslow circuit (all but two feet) and had a good mooch around but doing no roped climbing was frustrating.

[nik at work]

8B, 8b, project

M - nothing
T - Kilnsey sweating my sweat off, working stuff which it was far to hot for me to bother working...
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - nothing
S - nothing

I think I may have missed some weeks out somewhere along the line, apologies. Generally climbing has not been getting done which is frustrating.

Welcome to the fold Uptown, it's nice to have a fellow non-trainer knocking about...

[Falling Down]

STG’s – Boulder 7a and Redpoint 7a (Done) by end of June
MTG’s (End 2010) – Redpoint 7b+ (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine) & Onsight E5 (Right Wall or White Wall or Positron)
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a.

M - am Row/Weights P/E session BB & DB exercises @ 75% 1RM pm- Cheedale Embankment. 6b+ then Bream in Black (7a) 1st Redpoint; Dogged Barracuda Bass Sound 7a+ and led it in two overlapping sections. Hard (7b?)
T - Travel/Work - Long Endurance Session in gym 10k row; 5k run (outside); 15k bike
W
T
F
S - Hungover tradding at Staden - HVS, E1 & E1. 1st trad of 2010, head felt good.
S - Got pissed at OT watching England beat the Aussies

Good start to the week. Great gym session early Monday and climbed well in the evening. Tuesday again a good session in the gym. The rest of the week was a write off of football, 40th birthday parties and the cricket all day Sunday. Liver is pickled. This week is a bit of a write off too with a heavy work schedule and Wakestock in Abersoch at the weekend. Might get some surfing in.

[Andy F]

Short term goals: lots of stuff in the 7b+ - 7c+ range. Long term - GA, COTC

Tues/Thurs - good fingerboard sessions - 1 hr each. Lots of repeaters, dead hangs and pull-ups,
Sun - Pantymwyn. Tried to do Grand Canyon, but lacked the fitness. I feel strong as a result of all the fingerboarding, it's a lack of route mileage that's destroying the stamina. Still, if it wasn't for the fingerboard I wouldn't get chance to train at all!