[wintermute]

Planning to get down to Northcott next week to make a change from my the usual rotation of peak/wales etc. Despite there being plenty of threads hailing Northcott as one of the better culm venues, and several problems being mentioned (J-Lo, Red Quinnie, The Pinch, Ulterior motive etc.) i can't find any info anywhere on how to actually find these problems once at the beach.
Any chance someone with a bit of knowledge could help me out with some directions/descriptions?
Or if someone wants to spill the beans on Lynmouth, that would be equally welcome!
Cheers
Chris

[SA Chris]

If you are just heading in that general area, how about Hartland

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15358.msg266588.html#msg266588

[Dave Westlake]

This should help, but it is rushed as im at work!...

Park at the NT car park, you will see Maer cliff (big black wall full of scarey E6's) to your left (south)

J-Lo is between the carpark and this, in a small cave. It goes up a steep wall/arete. walk along the beach

Ulterior - walk south along coast path past maer cliff, take a right down a path onto the beach and you will see a big block, high on the beach and almost non tidal - ulterior goes up the seaward face of this.

Red Q - walk back north along beach and you will find a low cave (north facing).  Red Q takes the middle, the R-L traverse is 7a+ and the roof to the left is 7C+

The pinch is just north again, north facing just before you get to the name doesnt matter zawn, which is the backside of maer cliff.

Hope this helps...  Im planning to do a guide for northcott in the not too distant but it wont be for several months.

Cheers
Dave

[shark]

Red Quinne Traverse is quite hard to spot if unchalked I thought. It is opposite the cliff linked below at the base of a 60ft slab.

http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/Kleptomaniac_Northcott.pdf

[Richie Crouch]

There was some really good stuff to climb on (not documented afaik?) not far from Red Quinnie, if you turn around 180 at RQ and then it's over to the right on the underside of a leaning wall that had a smooth texture and lots of crimps/sidepull slots..etc. (jumping off at obvious higher break).

[Dave Westlake]

Ritchie, do you mean the narrow zawn where the name doesnt matter and bodysnatchers is?  Dave H did a cool highball there and the starts to the routes are good too.

[Richie Crouch]

It probably is Dave. There seemed to be a few obvious lines going upwards. We only had some old photocopied article from OTE and Tom telling us about J Lo via text.

Keen for another trip down at some point to get back to Hartland mainly and not get spanked on supercede again.

[wintermute]

Thanks for all the responses!

Chris - cheers for the suggestion but i've climbed at Hartland a couple of times and fancy a change of scenery, especially as i'll be swinging by Upton so can easily combine it with Northcott (plus i'll be on my own so want to stay well clear of the supercede wall without a spot!)

Dave - thats perfect thanks, exactly what i was hoping for. I recognise your name... think we might have a mutual friend in swiss roby who studied in plymouth for a while?

[Dave Westlake]

Hi there, yes I know swiss roby (or swiss tony as I like to call him) though I've not seen him since he left.  Do you know alice as well?

[granticus]

Ulterior - walk south along coast path past maer cliff, take a right down a path onto the beach and you will see a big block, high on the beach and almost non tidal - ulterior goes up the seaward face of this.

  walk down the path known as the 'earthquake' which can be identified by the the presence of a life belt in a little cupboard on a post near the bottom.  North Devon and Cornwall CC guide will be useful for finding your way around.

What beans do you need to be spilled for Lynmouth?  The guide got sidelined after I lost most of it when my hard drive crashed (and after I saw how slick Dave's Hartland guide is!).. However, PM me and I might email you an incomplete version to get you started.