Closer to home, how about undercut-crimp-jug at tor. Timeless classic, what a line, might get you strong at big moves off left hand undercuts.
Undercut Crimp...maybe but the crux here seems to be body tension enabling you to not only hold an undercut with a pretty extended left arm but to also take a relatively small hold semi statically with the right. Nice skills if you've got them but not a game changer on the Oak.
Hopefully I will have ticked the Oak before the grit season comes round again. Mind you I've been thinking that for 4 years.
Mind you I've been thinking that for 4 years.
Quote from: shark on May 18, 2013, 05:04:09 pmHopefully I will have ticked the Oak before the grit season comes round again. Mind you I've been thinking that for 4 years.Today I made love for the first time with a girl who was in love with me 15 years ago, she told me. 4 years are nothing, she told me. Stick at it, she told me. You'll get it.
What would Swiss Toni do?
For me, climbing the Oak is very much like trying to make love to a beautiful woman whilst afflicted with erectile dysfunction
More like trying to get off with a fit bird that is really not up for it. Set you sights a bit lower and you stand more chance of getting laid
Continuing on the dyno theme I'd be interested to know how the Shark fairs on Help the Aged?
Totally agree with Bonjoy. Plus has this reputation that it is sandbag also grown from the fact that it was originally graded 8b with a duff sequence...?
Is that a jibe?
There are a lot of Peak Lime trad crags out there that are scarcely climbed on anymore......on better (but still not brilliant crags) not a lot of climbing goes on at all which in turn causes self-perpetuating deterioration of those crags
many of which through neglect we would struggle to reassert the right to climb on with landowners anyway
QuoteThere are a lot of Peak Lime trad crags out there that are scarcely climbed on anymore......on better (but still not brilliant crags) not a lot of climbing goes on at all which in turn causes self-perpetuating deterioration of those crags Start listing them then. Vague allusions to the existence of these gets us nowhere. Quotemany of which through neglect we would struggle to reassert the right to climb on with landowners anywayReally? Without examples sounds rather like a baseless FUD campaign. Only one I can think of is Winnats.Given the open enthusiasm of the 'oh, just bolt it all' camp on UKC & Facebook recently I think you can do this without fear of sticking your head over the parapet.