[comPiler]

Trinity
6 August 2011, 11:49 am

Work/money, climbing and family. Not necessarily in that order.

If there was a graph of the things that mattered to me then nothing else would really feature. Everybody will have their own collection of things that matter. Doing well at all three at the same time constitutes something like happiness, well being or least contentment. However, concentrate on one too much or for too long then the others start to suffer. But because you are wrapped up in one area you don't tend to notice (or ignore) the signs of deterioration. This can lead to a nasty surprise.

I've been in a bit of a bubble lately. My life seems to have revolved around turning up at Raven tor two or three times a week and climbing at a gratifyingly decent level (for me) with no injuries and skin tougher than ever. Doesn't get much better than that. My main worries have been to find partners and how hot/humid it might be and progress on various projects.

Also because I've climbed at the tor in the morning to catch conditions this has been good for home life too which has been useful as Sonia has been working like a Trojan in corporate land. However, this has meant less time in the office for me and even when there and tired from climbing my mind has often been elsewhere.

As I had sealed a few business deals early in the year and done most of the work for them generating more work wasn't pressing or desirable as it would limit the time I could take out to go climbing or training. I had a few pieces of work to keep me ticking over.

Unfortunately a couple of weeks ago one of the deals unexpectedly unravelled. This week another bigger one went down the toilet too. As I had these deals "in-the-bag" I hadn't felt the need to prospect for new work. Consequently I am now in the position where my sales pipeline is empty. The melt down on the stock market last week has administered a similar kick in the balls to our finances.

Even though they represent substantial £sums with hard work and application are recoverable. The trouble is it requires hard work and application.

I am very lucky to be in the position to make these choices. Most people in salaried jobs don't have much control over their time. Being self-employed you have the freedom but precious little security. In my view the majority of the self-employed  don't take as much advantage of this potential freedom because of this lack of security and end up working longer and harder that their salaried counterparts. I digress.  

So the climbing bubble has burst :-( and it's time to be a grown-up again and generate some income.(Un)fortunately I can't get stuck in straight away as we are heading off as a family to Mallorca for two weeks. But when I get back and the kids go back at school then its back to the grindstone.

Source: The Shark

[comPiler]

Mallorca is funky
29 August 2011, 7:38 pm

"Aren't you a bit old for that sort of thing". "Cheers Rich". But I knew where he was coming from. Deep Water Soloing does seem like a young climbers game - there's just a bit too much fun, daring and frolicing for an old skool campaigner. Fashion considerations aside I was deeply apprehensive. A couple of years ago I went to have a look in at Diablo as we had a few hours spare before catching a flight back. It looked daunting.

Diablo was a crag to work towards. Mark took me to Cala Barques on the first day. Barques has a reputation as one of the friendlier DWS venues. Its an idyllic small cove with a lovely sandy beach. Even though it was 35 degrees as we walked across there was definitely a nipple in the air. The headland to the left has a sea cave at the base full of swimmers joined at regular intervals by a procession of jumpers launching themselves from various platforms including the lip at 14 metres. We geared up and swam in to the base of the cave with drybags and squirmed up to a ledge at about 5 metres.

The roof of the cave was covered in a disorientating myriad of stalactites and other weird and wonderful features. My chest was tight. Mark went first and I followed across and up a route called Big XXL. I hadn't been so frightened for years. Whilst I am used to soloing it is well within in my limit and never on radically overhanging ground. I couldnt convince my mind that the gaping air under my ankles ended at one big safety net. Even the evidence of punters jumping from the top just didnt sink in. Fortunately the route was a jug fest but it was a horrible, horrible, scary experience.

Kill or cure. We swam in again - this time to do Transversal. Although Mark had done it before he came off at the lip falling 10 meters into the drink. I followed. Again I was too frightened to enjoy this world class route. I got to the lip and clung on as though my life depended on it ..part of me genuinely believed that was the case. Following Mark's (crap) beta I crossed to the pocket at the lip but was off. Splash. Salt water went up my sinuses. But at least I had taken the fall.

Was I cured of the fear? Was I fuck. The next day when we went to Porto Colom I experienced the same chest tightening fear. By day 3 I had had it with DWS. The 6c warm went in a blur and I looked up at the headwall on "Bisexual" and thought - this is not for me. I hung around to look out for Mark whilst he fell off with butch abandon. Just for practice I experimented with jumping off gradually higher ledges until I could face 8 metres with indifference. By then the Bisexual headwall looked more amenable so I had a look. This time the climbing and the fall went without the gut wrenching anxiety and near-panic of before. I got it second go. :-). It still took time and familiarity over the next week to get to really enjoy DWSing though.

Yesterday was the last day of a great two week family holiday. Aquapark, go karting, swimming, canoeing, crazy golf and eating out interspersed with short climbing trips. This time I headed to Cala Barques on my own as Mark had left with his family in the morning. I still had Transversal to do. This time I was loving the climbing and the fall felt like an inconvenience rather than a near death expereince. It went second go but not without knee scraping tussle getting established in the offwidth. My lats are still aching.

Source: The Shark

[comPiler]

From small acorns
15 September 2011, 10:29 pm

Anyone that knows me and quite a few that don't will be aware that my goal for the last 4 (hundred) years is Austrian Oak at Malham.

Formerly graded 8a+ and now formally graded 8b Austrian Oak was named by John Dunne in honour of Arnold Schwarzenegger and as might expected requires a deal of strength and power for its 30 feet of burliness. Consequentally it epitomised the type of bouldery route that I would ever never do. Consequently in a twisted way it is the perfect project as it forces me to work my weaknesses - and then some.  

It is evocative too. I remember seeing Jon Cort busting a gut trying to reach the horn weekend after weekend. Even Neil (Nigs) Carson got spanked on it first go up. Seb had to admit defeat on the hairpoint and compromise his ethics and settle for a redpoint. Full marks to Lucinda (Whittaker) for doing it this year. Girlpower !  

Currently I am feeling pretty confident about getting on it again this autumn. My main training over the last couple of weeks has revolved around doing a circuit on my home board that replicates some of the key moves and approximates the intensity/length of the route. With Tommy's advice the way I started working the circuit was to break it down into sections of 5 or more moves taking 15 secs rest between each section. The idea is then over successive sessions to reduce the rest between each section as a way of working towards completing the circuit.  

This has worked a treat and tonight I made a breakthrough climbing through the first 18 moves in a oner on the second set. Here's the proof..

Source: The Shark

[comPiler]

Diary of a shark aged 47 and a half
25 September 2011, 4:40 pm

Fri pm: Drove to Malham. Crap traffic. Met Steve Shortround at catwalk. Shit. the Oak was dry(ish). Had psyched myself to redpoint Main Overhang. Quandry. Decide to go on Oak - first time since April. Yep it's still hard. Good session. Looking forward to go back on it on Sunday. Get home at 9pm. Sonia out. Kids still up.

Sat am.  Sonia has decided that we've (she)has done too much and we miss the 9am Park Run so lie in till 8.30am. Weigh 11.7. Shit. Sonia takes Tom off to BMC talent day event at the Edge. 10am I telephone interview a candidate. 10.45am I take Poppy to gymnastics checking in on Tom and Sonia at the Edge on the way back. At home sort washing out and get Ben into the shed to put up a new problem ("The horde of ravenous, firebreathing bonecrushing demonsd of hell" no less). 12.30 pick up Poppy and bring her home. Check on Ben's progress (it's hard) and sort dinner for her, Ben and Kathleen our au pair (meatballs). Go in shed and try out a new aerocap protocol of Binney's that Sonia had noted down from the Talent day event. 4pm. Take Ben and Poppy down to the tennis club so Ben can teach her how to serve. I stay at bar. Oh dear. They have Deception on tap as opposed to the usual sport bar shite. Order a pint using Ben's key fob. I review accounts and surf using laptop until Poppy bursts through complaining Ben has been throwing balls at her. Go through and have a couple of games with Ben whilst Poppy settles down until Ben's racquet breaks. Go home. Poppy still in a strop - Sonia brokers resolution. Kathleen says she is ill. Finish making the dinner (mince, spag and cauliflower cheese). Eat excessive cheese sauce. Watch Dr Who and thrash Ben at chess three times. Get absurdly psyched reading Kalymnos guide. Last ditch efforts to find a partner for Malham unsucessful.

Sun 7am. Sonia gets up leaves me with list and disappears to go on some 10mile cross country relay race. 8am I get up. 11st 8lb. Disaster. Chivvy the kids. Put a washing load on. Print birthday party invites. Out the door at 8.45am. Drop Poppy off at Hockey at 9am. Get a paper. Drop boys off at rugby. Work on Sudoku. 10am Pick Poppy up from Hockey. More sudoku. 10.45am Walk with Poppy to tennis lesson. Nice bar. Admire picture of Anna Hornykova. Wait while Poppy has lesson. 11.30am On way back retrieve tennis balls from bushes. At rugby club get sausage sandwich for Poppy. Unable to resist a full breakfast. Finish soduku and get depressed reading about the economy. 12.30 eventually find boys and corale all of them into car. Start driving out of carpark with bootlid open. On drive home review plan of driving up to Malham on own in hope of cadging belay. Get increasing ratty with kids and depressed realising how stupid plan is. Fuckitfuckitfuckit. Get home. Have something to eat. Decide not to go to Malham and have a nap instead. Wake up at 4pm. Write blog. Contemplate training..

Source: The Shark

[abarro81]

I was just over a pound lighter than you this morning. Fatty.

[shark]

Update:

6pm Go in Shed and work Ben's problem with him. He burns me off and does it.
11.30pm Go back to shed to hang myself

[comPiler]

Winter training
31 October 2011, 11:32 am

The Grit has been called and winter is nearly upon us. Tis the time of year when this old man's thoughts turn to training.

Last year I followed a programme set by Tom Randall. In general I am delighted with my on-rock performance this year and I learnt a lot from the programme. But whilst I'm sure the programme gave me a good foundation I'm not sure how much can be specifically attributed to the programme as my best climbing performances didnt occur until well after the programme finished even though the programme was designed to lead to a peak.

I am currently inclined to go my own way this winter as I haven't got the stomach to follow a programme that seemed to dominate three months of my life. Another issue that I have with the Binney model/approach to training is that whilst it focuses a lot on energy systems there is little about isolating raw arm/finger strength and nothing on the psychology of training. For example if you are starting to reap the rewards of a certain type of training then you have almost certainly over-trained that component and be moving on to something else. Where's the fun in that?.

To be motivated to give 100% effort without even seeing training gains (let alone climbing gains) for three months or more is the stuff of the 1% destined for greatness. The rest of us need regular and measurable feedback to keep striving. All the more so if you are focussing on training a weakness - something that you perform so badly at that it is best trained in private!

So currently I am dreaming up activities that are measurable and motivating that will make training my weaknesses fun within a programme that fits in better with my life. Perhaps I'll need help with this. Tommy...??

Source: The Shark

[nai]

Winter training
31 October 2011, 11:32 am
So currently I am dreaming up activities that are measurable and motivating that will make training my weaknesses fun within a programme that fits in better with my life. Perhaps I'll need help with this. Tommy...??

Is going bouldering not a bit too obvious 

[shark]

Is going bouldering not a bit too obvious 

Oh yes. I intend to push my bouldering grade this winter - currently 7A+. Place your bets.. 

[rich d]

6C?

[Nibile]

 

[shark]

6C?

I'll take that bet 

[John Gillott]

Come on Shark, you of all people know that you need more specific training targets than a grade. Name the 7Bs you're going to do before you turn your attention back to sieging The Oak.

[tomtom]

I think we should set the targets

I'll start with Seans Arete..

[abarro81]

Get on the lime boulders: tor, kudos wall, crag x...

[shark]

Open to suggestions but Weedkiller traverse to start with - that gets 7B now. Had a couple of goes on Dick Williams last winter and that seemed do-able. T Crack is something I've had a few goes at over the years. There's so many inspiring problems in the new PBG so I don't especially want to get locked into a single project all winter. Although less inspiring the lime problems are going to be more beneficial as Barrows says.

[Richie Crouch]

Get to Parisella's/Pill Box for a fierce day out! 

[comPiler]

Get with the Programme
3 November 2011, 3:55 pm

After the consternation expressed in my last post I think I have got my shit together sorting out a training programme.

Referring to last year's programme out go some of the more inconvenient sessions (i.e Wall based 4x4's) and in go circuits which I can do at work or home. In addition I am adding more finger and arm strength type work. The structured bouldering sessions will be replaced by unstructured bouldering i.e having fun on the Foundry Wave or outside at weekends when the weather allows.

I'm going to take it a month at a time with 3 hard weeks followed by an easier week. Starting from next Monday I hope to do the following for the next 3 weeks:

WEEKDAYS

Mon AM     Rock rings -Encores Session

Tues    Short 1arm assisted hangs throughout day

Weds AM    Rock rings - Assisted 1 arm session

Thurs AM Systems board AnCap

Fri      REST

Evenings

Mon Eve    Oak circuit AnCap session

Tues    Boulder Wave

Weds Eve AeroCap in Shed

Thurs EveAeroCap in Shed

Fri     REST

Weekend

Sat PM     Boulder/AeroCap eve

Sun PM     Boulder/AeroCap eve

The only caveat is that I'm still troubled by golfers elbow. I think it is on the mend but is still bloody painful. If there is no improvement next week I'll take myself down to Hallamshire physio. On second thoughts perhaps I should book now.

Source: The Shark

[abarro81]

Thoughts:

6 hard days a week? That's hardcore. (I guess if you're taking a recovery week after 3 weeks that's maybe not as hard as it sounds, but I never seem to get around to actually having my recovery weeks! Maybe you're more disciplined.) Anyway, I can't imagine I'd be fresh enough to do 1 arm hangs on 5th day on and AnCap on 6th day on. Maybe I'm just pathetic, but it sounds optimistic to me...

No maintainance of PE/aeropower? I throw in 1 session a week (before a rest day), since I can get away with being a bit tired for this session, and I think it's worth maintaining it rather than letting it slide totally...

[shark]

Thoughts:

6 hard days a week? That's hardcore. (I guess if you're taking a recovery week after 3 weeks that's maybe not as hard as it sounds, but I never seem to get around to actually having my recovery weeks! Maybe you're more disciplined.) Anyway, I can't imagine I'd be fresh enough to do 1 arm hangs on 5th day on and AnCap on 6th day on. Maybe I'm just pathetic, but it sounds optimistic to me...

No maintainance of PE/aeropower? I throw in 1 session a week (before a rest day), since I can get away with being a bit tired for this session, and I think it's worth maintaining it rather than letting it slide totally...

Know what you mean about recovery weeks. I was going to have a one or two week complete layoff and managed 6 days before cracking. Yes - always optimistic - set the bar too high and constantly disappoint yourself is my motto. I'll PM you the session sheets when I get them typed up and see what you think - your sessions will be more intense or longer or both than mine. There's only one way to find out if I can't hack it. Re AeroPower sessions Tom didnt have them kicking in till Week15 of 27. 

[comPiler]

How to put a plan together
17 November 2011, 3:51 pm

Given that I’ve just put together a periodised programme for myself I thought it would be useful to give some basic practical guidelines for anyone struggling to know where to start.

My only experience is with Binney/Randall model and approach and my thoughts have been directed in how to apply it for sport climbing. It’s not the only way to periodise. Maybe it’s not the best way. But it’s the way I’ve done it.

Start at the end

When do you want the programme to end – i.e. when is the weather likely to be good enough for you to put the training into practice. So that gives you how many weeks? Hopefully this is divisible by four. For me this was 16 weeks which neatly splits into 2 blocks of 8 weeks again neatly split by christmas. The first 8 weeks provide a base for the second 8 weeks where you are seeking to squeeze better performance from the foundation which I’ll refer to as “performance base”.  Each block represents a “mesocycle”. It doesn’t have to be 4 weeks but that’s what I’m currently working with.          

What are we training?

The key variables in training are personal intensity (how difficult you find the moves) , rest (between reps and sets) and volume (number of moves). As climbers we typically want a full armoury of capability to deal with the different intensities, rests and volume of moves presented by a variety of routes. The training of these energy systems is divided into Aerobic Capacity, Anaerobic Capacity, Anaerobic Power and Aerobic Power each concentrating on a certain combination of intensity, rest and volume within a given range with excellent guidance given on this document here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/principlestraining.pdf Roughly the focus is on AeroCap and volume for the base. AnCap and to a lesser extent AnPower can be trained throughout the programme whilst AeroPower kicks in at the end.  

Where do we train ?

This depends on the facilities available to you. My advice is to refer to the charts in Dave Binney’s presentation and devise sessions that you think will work on the facilities available to you within his guidelines – typically home board, indoor bouldering wall and indoor lead wall – and just as importantly what psyches you. A perfect regime is no good if it is on a climbing medium or venue that doesn’t inspire you to give it your best effort. If bouldering circuits leave you cold draw up an alternative way of training for the same effect on the lead wall.

Sessions

For each type of training (AeroCap, AnCap, AeroPower,AnPower) devise and write down two or three alternative sessions appropriate to the facilities available and time you can set aside. Now for each 4 week block decide how many of each session you should do each week for the base phase and the performance phase. Each time you repeat a session try to beat the performance (increased intensity, more moves, reduced rest) of the previous session such that it still conforms to the parameters of the type of training. A hard circuit you have could be used to train both AnCap or AnPower or AeroPower depending on how you break down the rests and moves and as you get stronger and fitter through the programme. If this circuit replicates your project all the better. Hint.

Sequencing sessions

Personally I don’t get too hung up on this as there is conflicting views and experiences. Doing back-to-back sessions is OK if pressed for time though a break is better.  

Week 1

Don’t be worried if for the first week you find getting back into the training sessions and generally getting used to having so many training sessions hard. You may also get frustrated in having to tweak the sessions to work well for you. Patience. You’ll soon get into the swing of it.

First 4 weeks

In the second week I will be looking to beat the session performances of the first week. This is quite motivating ie beating the previous session especially if training on your own and what it might lack in variety is more than compensated by psyche IMO. Over a three week period you want to build up and slightly overdo it such by the fourth week you are ready for a rest when you underdo it. In this “underdoing” week you might find you hit a performance peak so it could be a good time to do some benchmarking or tick off a board project or boulder problem.

Half a plan

Rather than the daunting task of setting out the whole programme save yourself some agonising and just plan the base phase. Once you have completed the base phase use the week off at the end to plan the “performance base” . By that stage you will have a better and more realistic feel of what you might achieve.

What about strength?

AnCap etc is generally about energy systems in your forearms but it is also climbing based and we all know – deep down – that climbing is the best training for climbing. It won't make you weaker - the L5 work will make you stronger. Anything else that is not climbing is supplemental – typically bar work, campus boards, fingerboards and weights take second place. So slot in the supplementary work according to your required needs or desires !

You now have a plan. That is vastly better than no plan. Go to it. It will be hard work. Keep the faith. Take notes. Refine. Report back.

Source: The Shark

[douglas]

Thanks for posting this and putting it out there. It's interesting to see what others do. I like the idea but to me it seems like an approach to improvement that cannot be sustained in the long term? Is it not inevitable that to get better sooner or later you just need to get stronger? After all strength improves endurance as a side effect and if you can't do the moves there's nothing to endure... Where are the weights, the assisted one armers, the system sessions, the max hangs, the campus sessions... I know you mention that these are extras but I guess I don't think that's enough. Why isn't the endurance training the extra? Once again, thanks for sharing the training knowledge, it's really appreciated.

[abarro81]

I believe the idea is that bouldering, ancap and hangs should combine to give good strength gains. (if you look at the old post shark's got a fair bit of bouldering and hanging planned)

[douglas]

I believe the idea is that bouldering, ancap and hangs should combine to give good strength gains. (if you look at the old post shark's got a fair bit of bouldering and hanging planned)

Right, cheers. If AnCap is going to stimulate strength gains I would guess the circuit would need to be systematic in nature? ie all pinches, or all gaston crimps, or the 10 - 20 moves would just be too dilute? Just a thought but I've tried system bouldering and it has a fair degree of PE involved so I think I'll look at doing sytem stuff for some AnCap rather than AnCap and hope for some strength.

[shark]

If AnCap is going to stimulate strength gains I would guess the circuit would need to be systematic in nature? ie all pinches, or all gaston crimps, or the 10 - 20 moves would just be too dilute? Just a thought but I've tried system bouldering and it has a fair degree of PE involved so I think I'll look at doing sytem stuff for some AnCap rather than AnCap and hope for some strength.

One of my AnCap sessions is on a systems board - I just use the incut edges and its all about the forearms for that session which contrasts with the "Oak" AnCap session where the actual moves are hard. In fact you could probably to do most of the work Binney prescribes going up and down a systems board with a bit of creativity to get the intensities right as well as your single move strength work.