[douglas]

Nice one. Cheers!

[comPiler]

You can't beat the system
7 December 2011, 10:30 pm

**Geeky training blog alert**

Last week I had a relatively light week to finish the first 4 week block of the programme. Overall it seemed to go well though I am having to work around golfers in the right elbow. I was hoping to crush my Oak circuit and  Weedkiller at the Tor this week but it didnt happen which was mildly disappointing.

Monday was the start of my new block and I decided to up the ante with a big rock rings session(using pulley assistance). After warm-up and rehab exercises this started with an assisted one arm pyramiding set on my left. However, on the first pull on my right the instant pain from the golfers made me give up the set for that arm. Instead I moved on two armed encore work with 10kg pulley assistance.

The set comprised using the small crimps with all 4 fingers on one rock ring and back2 the other doing 4reps x8secs with 5 secs rest doing 8 sets alternating left and right combo with 1 min rest between sets as follows: Grab 1: Full Lock i.e. pull-up hold 8secs and release 5secs rest the Grab2: Grab 2: arms ¾ lock Grab 3: arms half lockrab Grab 4: arms ¼ lock.

This went OK so was up for more but had a client visit so had a break of over an hour. Once back did more deadhangs in a pattern recommended by Paul at Crusher holds. Again with 10kg assistance and two-handing doing 4 sets with Mid2 then 4 sets with Front2 as follows: 1x6sec, 1x9sec then 1x12 secs with 4 secs rest between reps and I min rest between sets. After that finished with some finger rolls using a dumbell.

As with a lot of sessions that go well and leave you on a high I expected to do more. That evening I tried an AnCap session on my Oak circuit and it was a disaster and had to throw the towel in and couldnt even do an AeroCap set.

I began to doubt whether I could fit a decent finger session in alongside the other sessions I planned to do.

Although I didnt mean to take Tuesday off what with Sonia being away and a nativity  I ended up doing jack with my forearms aching most of the day.

Today (Wednesday) I decided to do an AnCap session on the systems board. The work is very forearm intensive compared to the AnCap session in the Shed. I had done three sessions on the last block gradually making each session harder by for example just using the poorest footholds.

The session is 3sets of 15moves x4 with 2mins rest between reps and 10mins between sets.

This time to make it harder I counted to 3 on each hold and using small footholds up and down. The first rep went so well that I decided to cut rest from 2mins to 90secs. The set went so well that I decided to cut rest between sets from 10 mins to 5mins. This led me to fade on the last move of the 4th rep of the second set and struggle on the third set.

I was elated and I felt I'd made a real breakthrough.

Below is a rep, or more correctly 14 of the 15 moves. Although its not obvious the footholds I'm using are pretty small but the edges are incut.

Source: The Shark

[Serpico]

You need to be a LOT stricter with your system boarding; your foot placements don't alternate with your hand moves, and you're climbing asymmetrically: compare the height of your left elbow, and the degree to which it's externally rotated compared to your right at the point at which you reach for the next hold.
The problem with high repetition exercises like system boarding is that if you do them with poor technique you will ingrain poor technique; focus on locking your elbow into your side, as if you're reaching further than you actually are, and throw your hips in more, they should be almost touching the board at the point you reach for the next hold.
If all else fails I recommend scones.

[shark]

Thanks for the observation Serps.

I didn't think it matter too much for what I am trying to achieve which is an AnCap forearm workout. The body/arm moves are fairly easy and I dont regard it as systems boarding it is just that board is available to me during the day. However I take your point if I am going to do this sequence regularly and will rescrew the footholds in a symmetrical formation - they are randomnly placed at the moment.

Had a scone last night for probably the first time  this year. 

[Serpico]

I don't think that it's just that the footholds are asymmetric that's causing the difference in arm position, I think you've got actual asymmetry in the way you climb, possibly down to imbalance between L-R scapula, long triceps head, other...
Doesn't matter that you don't regard it as system training, you're still reinforcing those movement patterns.
Try this pattern.
L1+R1, R3, L3, R2, L1, R1, L3, R3, L2, R1, L1, Repeat the entire sequence. Feet do the opposite; RF1, LF3, RF3, LF2, Etc.
I find it much easier to keep strict form and ensure that each side is worked equally this way.

[shark]

Strictly come systems boarding....

Why that dance routine ? I have 5 sets of holds and it only uses 3 which seems a waste and also the only laddering move is going back down. I can see using 3 holds would mean that a sit start wouldnt be necessary.

Also do you start with a foot move or hand move?

Any view on how far foothold 1 should be from handhold 1 etc ?

Re my climbing assyemtry you are certainly on to something as my physio always points out the right side being more muscley than the left with associated postural wonkiness.
 

[Serpico]

Why that dance routine ? I have 5 sets of holds and it only uses 3 which seems a waste and also the only laddering move is going back down. I can see using 3 holds would mean that a sit start wouldnt be necessary.

L1 - R3 (or higher) is a nice big move which trains locking down to the shoulder.
L3 - R2 is splitting the distance on the way down so that you're training a mid range lock and not having to absorb too much of a drop. It also means that you naturally then start the next rep with the other arm (R1 - L3), so you're stressing both sides of the body equally. By comparison count how many times you lead off, and how many eccentric contractions you do, with either arm with your current method.

Also do you start with a foot move or hand move?

If I'm leading off with my RH then I start with hands on L1+R1 and RF on. There's an easier version where you start with both feet on LF1+RF1 and don't move them at all.

Any view on how far foothold 1 should be from handhold 1 etc ?

This is one of the training variables. Wider footholds can make the locks more intensive.

Re my climbing assyemtry you are certainly on to something as my physio always points out the right side being more muscley than the left with associated postural wonkiness.

Next time video it with your shirt off (and maybe some baby oil) and watch for your scapula winging.

[shark]

Thank you

[Johnny Brown]

Is that the world's shortest bachar ladder? We've got a 10 metre one installed down at abracadabseil if anyone wants a session fucking their elbows?

[shark]

Is that the world's shortest bachar ladder? We've got a 10 metre one installed down at abracadabseil if anyone wants a session fucking their elbows?

Its a bit longer than it looks as it goes down a stairwell but I was scared of falling down it so just do single move pull throughs on it and lock offs.

Will take you up on the offer once my elbow is better !

[comPiler]

Winter daydream
7 January 2012, 5:56 pm

No takers for climbing outside so headed out with Pip. Stopped at Stanage. Got out of car. Got back in car. Not a day for soloing. It was blowing a gale with threatening clouds on the horizon. I could have MTFUpped and pretended to be Heathcliff. But there weren't many potential rescuers  visible if I had taken a tumble. Also I'd forgotten my chalk bag.

No rush, so I took a scenic route to the tor. It was deserted but Weedkiller was dry enough.  You get a chance to soak things up and see the little things when you are alone at a crag. The way winter had drained the colour from the landscape. The clouds scudding. The bare trees and tall bleached marsh grasses nodding, as gusts of wind tracked across the brimfull, but still lazy, river.

Resting between goes I lay on the mats wallowing in uninterupted reverie and enjoying the surroundings. At one point the sun peeked over the hill. So I drew the duvet hood closed leaving just enough of a gap so the pale sunshine could light up my enclosed little world. Pip was beside me. She was sat on her haunches, looking inscrutable, and lost in her own doggy thoughts. Nice.

I stayed a couple of hours, tried hard, got some OK links and headed home.

Source: The Shark

[Fiend]

Nice post. Hurrah for Pip.

[SA Chris]

Pip Pip surely?

[Nibile]

really nice. just recently discovered the joy of a going climbing all alone with the dog.
mine sleeps all the one hour drive back home though.

[comPiler]

17 years ago
10 January 2012, 2:43 pm

The 3rd October 1994 was a Monday. Dressed in a suit and tie  I left my desk and took a stroll down Oxford Street, as I often did at lunchtime, past the Palace Theatre and under the railway arch to Cotswold Camping. When I opened the door I just stood still in the doorway with my arms in the air. The guys at Cotswold knew what it meant. It meant I'd done Zoolook!

It was a triumph of obstinacy and persistence against the odds. I don't know how many days I spent on Zoolook that year but it was an epic struggle for incremental progress with the end of the year getting nearer and nearer.

That saturday I had driven up with Dave Marsh in clag and rain that detiorated the further North we got. At Malham I was prepared to just have a cup of coffe and head back. Dave persuaded me not only to walk to the cove but also take my rucsack and gear.

When we got there I recall Dave Thomas being the only other person at the Catwalk. What he was doing there on his own is anyone's guesss, but that's Dave for you. The rock turned out to be climbable despite the dismal weather.  

On redpoint for the first time I got through the short traverse left near the top which marks the end of the difficulties but I was pumped out of my gourd. I quickly shaked and started moving back right up the tufa. Those casual static moves had turned impossible. Ridiculously I reversed to the shake to try to get a bit more back. My forearms remained solid. Shit. I wasn't going to do it. I moved back right and, now or never, I desperately threw my hand up the tufa. I got the good bit and clawed my way to the belay.

Around 1988 I felt I had well and truly plateaued at around E5 and 7b which made me quite glum at the time. I stopped being a climbing bum and started a career. Despite the demands of work somehow I ground my up gradually harder sport routes. However, even by the time I started trying Zoolook I only had a small clutch of 7c's and one soft 7c+ under my belt. All had required multiple day sieges with the outcome never certain. Going at least a grade harder wasn't sensible. But Zoolok was, and is, inspirational and I was prepared to throw my heart and soul into it. The main thing that was tipped in my favour was that being a technical long route it suited trad bred climbers of the time.

After the redpoint, the rush of success took at least a week to wear off. I woke up each morning with a grin on my face when I realised that "I'd done Zoolook" and that grin lasted all day.

It was a while before "What now?" seemed important. It was good question. For me climbing enjoyment was closely linked to progress. Settling at doing one 8a and being content wasn't me. Fortunately the next level of routes was equally inspirational. Predator, the Groove, Supercool. But it was obvious that to get there would require some backfilling on my part. I needed to be able to pull off harder bouldery moves with steelier fingers.

My tactic was to turn by attention to the  shorter and for me much harder, Raindogs to work my weaknesses. That took even more effort and another 4 or 5 years. By then I had a family and started a business and somewhere along the way the tactic of doing short hard routes purely as a stepping stone for the end goal of doing the big classic 8a+'s got lost.

17 years later those routes remain untouched. I still want to do them. Badly. And will. Honest. But there is still the small matter of finishing the Oak....

Source: The Shark

[Fiend]

Nice one 

Wish I'd been plateauing at E5 in 1988 

[Richie Crouch]

Nice post Shark. Was this partially inspired by the 'when should I try an 8a' thread?

Interesting to read of your experiences. There is nothing quite like ending a siege!

[willackers]

Awesome! 

The Oak this year! 

[shark]

Nice post Shark. Was this partially inspired by the 'when should I try an 8a' thread?

Yes, well spotted. It reminded me of the struggle I went through at the time. I think the modern way of building a pyramid of quicker ticks is more sustainable and progressive though I love a good siege.

The Oak this year! 

Cheers Will. No guarantees but hopefully its game on in March. Still can't believe first time up you did THE move going for the horn with your left and thought it was OK.

[RichK]

 

[saltbeef]

Cotswold Camping. When I opened the door I just stood still in the doorway with my arms in the air. The guys at Cotswold knew what it meant. It meant I'd done Zoolook!

i'm amazed that the people in cotswold knew what sport climbing was, let alone zoolook!

[shark]

i'm amazed that the people in cotswold knew what sport climbing was, let alone zoolook!

There was a good bunch there then. Simon Marsh (Now with DMM and helped write the Ground-Up N Wales guide) and his girlfriend Lynne Williams who was a good climber. Pete Cole, the Manager, was a keen climber and had Ed Morgan and Dave Douglas as lodgers. Simon who is mainly a trad climber also later did Zoolook as did my partner on the day Dave Marsh (no relation).

[comPiler]

Boot camp
8 February 2012, 1:40 pm

My training has gone a little awry over the last couple of weeks. This was rammed home last night on my regular tuesday visit to the Foundry. Everyone was training - circuits on the 40degree board (Tom and Adam) pulley set up on the beastmaker (Paul B) one arm training on the bar (Weak Steve) and then Wil, Bob, Barrows, Joe and others cranking on the steep section of the Wave. Most had ear pieces in. It was hard to tell whether this was because they were actrually listening to music or if it was a convenient way to avoid socialising. It was good to see the dedication and people  concentrating on doing their own thing.    

I was wrecked from being pummelled by John Ostro the night before and could scarcely pull on. Had a few goes on the 40 degree board but the body was sluggish to respond. Adam claimed it was because the massage released toxins. I was sceptical.

The kids were up for it though. I usually have Poppy and Ben with me but this time Tom too. We usually have about 90mins there. The kids feel comfortable at the Foundry - over the years its pretty much become home from home for them. Poppy (7) does a few top ropes and some traversing. Ben (13) just boulders now. We spent several sessions trying to get him used to leading and sagging onto bolts but it was an uphill struggle and in the end  the frustration and trauma got the better of both of us. Its a shame as it will limt what we can do outside.

Poppy asked if she could try leading and clipped a few bolts. Tom (11) had a decent stab on top rope at flashing a 7a then another good go on a 7b. Before we left Ben insisted I try a problem on the Bleustone Wall that he'd done. I could scarcely get off the ground.

And he beat me at chess when we got home.

Source: The Shark

[ShortRound]

Before we left Ben insisted I try a problem on the Bleustone Wall that he'd done. I could scarcely get off the ground.

 

I like this a lot. You should get him on the Oak.

[slackline]

I like this a lot. You should get him on the Oak.

Ben (13) just boulders now. We spent several sessions trying to get him used to leading and sagging onto bolts but it was an uphill struggle and in the end  the frustration and trauma got the better of both of us. Its a shame as it will limt what we can do outside.