[Ged]

Just back from a week down there.  Managed a few sessions at some of the publicised venues, and thought I'd share my thoughts in case you plan on heading down there.

St Ives/Clodgy head:  Excellent venue.  Bloodlust is an excellent problem.  The traverse looked good but I was too scared without spotters/more mats.  The pebble traverse is also much better than it looks.  The australia boulder is awesome.  The problem Australia is classic, and the hard rightwards traverse through it is an awesome bit of power pulling

Gwenvor:  Only climbed at Aire point, but the north facing wall is great.  Thin, steep slab/wall climbing above a good landing.  The link up starting  up the central crack, moving right to the flaky hold, then up and right up the tiny crimps/smears is superb

Tintagel/superbloc:  Was very greasy, but seemed good.  Purple haze, i think, climbs out of an arch, with a big boulder that gets in  the way of your feet a bit?  This was good, but not quite as awesome as it sounds.  Opposite this was a stunning problem that starts on an arete, then makes a big span left under a boulder that it's easy to hit your head on, onto slopers in a cave.  Awesome.  Will definitely go back there on a better tide.

All in all, loads to go at, just needs a bit of effort to explore and hunt out the best lines.  The ones mentioned here are well worth looking for

ged

[JonI]

Finally managed to get down to Tintagel on Sunday.  It's a great spot, although the number of problems is a bit limited.  Worth combing it with Northcott or Hartland for a weekend's bouldering. 
I think the thing Ged mentioned is an extended start to Blue Ray from sitting on the right (is this right?  The problem was in a cave on the back of the big square boulder).  This was awesome, as was Purple Haze and Kids (still good from standing if like me, you're too weak for the sitter). 

Props to Tom Newberry and co. for discovering the place and sorting out the guide on rock and run!

[Duma]

Purple haze, i think, climbs out of an arch, with a big boulder that gets in  the way of your feet a bit?  This was good, but not quite as awesome as it sounds.  Opposite this was a stunning problem that starts on an arete, then makes a big span left under a boulder that it's easy to hit your head on, onto slopers in a cave. 

This is PH:

didn't notice the boulder getting in the way myself.

[jakes]

Was speaking to Tom and apparently a storm over the winter moved some of the small boulders/blocks around meaning that a boulder now gets in the way of your feet a bit. Conversely, the storm also moved boulders around beneath Kids, making the landing better there.

That extended start to Blue Ray sounds good, will have to check it out when I'm next down that way!

[Andy W]

Just back from a week down there.  Managed a few sessions at some of the publicised venues, and thought I'd share my thoughts in case you plan on heading down there.

St Ives/Clodgy head:  Excellent venue.  Bloodlust is an excellent problem.  The traverse looked good but I was too scared without spotters/more mats.  The pebble traverse is also much better than it looks.  The australia boulder is awesome.  The problem Australia is classic, and the hard rightwards traverse through it is an awesome bit of power pulling

Gwenvor:  Only climbed at Aire point, but the north facing wall is great.  Thin, steep slab/wall climbing above a good landing.  The link up starting  up the central crack, moving right to the flaky hold, then up and right up the tiny crimps/smears is superb


Tintagel/superbloc:  Was very greasy, but seemed good.  Purple haze, i think, climbs out of an arch, with a big boulder that gets in  the way of your feet a bit?  This was good, but not quite as awesome as it sounds.  Opposite this was a stunning problem that starts on an arete, then makes a big span left under a boulder that it's easy to hit your head on, onto slopers in a cave.  Awesome.  Will definitely go back there on a better tide.

All in all, loads to go at, just needs a bit of effort to explore and hunt out the best lines.  The ones mentioned here are well worth looking for

ged

hey

Glad you liked Clodgy, its good to hear people enjoying the place, doesn't seem like that long ago that was only a handful of locals pottering around the place. Which problem do you mean by 'australia' do you mean 'boomerang'?

Tintagel looks good, must make a visit there.

[A Jooser]

...The problem Australia is classic, and the hard rightwards traverse through it is an awesome bit of power pulling...

This traverse of which you speak, be that Work in Progress the V8? Did you do it Ged? If so that's excellent, I'm very pleased to hear it. Proper job!

[Duma]

Was speaking to Tom and apparently a storm over the winter moved some of the small boulders/blocks around meaning that a boulder now gets in the way of your feet a bit. Conversely, the storm also moved boulders around beneath Kids, making the landing better there.

Well I did it at the end of april and I can't remember any major weather since then...

Mods: this needs merging into Jims cornwall thread on places to go.

[Ged]

Clodgy:  Yes maybe I mean boomerang?  The one that pulls up on crimps to a couple of slopers, then pop to a jug?  Bit grim conditions so the slopers felt rubbish.  Great problem though.  Not sure if i did the full traverse thing.  Started on a jug, and ttaversed right to the crack, then got too scared to top out cos my mat was back at the start.  Good to there though

Interesting re. boulders moving at tintagel.  There's definitely one under purple haze that gets in the way.  Doesn't stop you doing the problem, but you have to avoid it, which possibly detracts from the quality a bit.

Yes that extended start is awesome, the best problem i tried down there.  Didn't think that much of the 7b+ sit start thing

[Dave Westlake]

Not Cornwall, but better  , and not far away...

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15358.0.html

[A Jooser]

Not Cornwall, but better  ...

 … Shaaaame!