[tj]

Hi- was hoping folk could give some suggestions as to the best crags in these areas- I know nothing!

Basically gonna have a bit of time over the summer to investigate. Looking for quality stuff mostly between E2-4, maybe the odd E5.

I'm pretty keen to check out Nesscliffe- is this likely to be conditions dependent/better left for autumn?

Also heard various things in passing about the Meirionnydd...

Cheers!

[Drew]

Also heard various things in passing about the Meirionnydd...

"500+ pages of text..."

Loads to go at, from long mutli-pitch, to short outcrops (and even a gritstone crag!)

[Mirf]

Craig Arthur has some superb long E4 to E6 's  went to some obscure crags in central wales a couple of weeks back, lots to go at and potential for more routes too, though take a good stiff brush and be prepared for an adventure or two   

[Fiend]

Investigate Mid-Wales, you'll never get bored.

Craig Y Mwn, Arennig Fawr, Rhinnog Fawr, Y Grisau and of course the Moelwyns are great at those grades. There's loads more in the Rhinnogs, also Cadar and Craig Cwyarch have a lot of potential but it can be a mission getting to the routes.

[tj]

Cool, cheers guys. Any particularly clean/dirty crags? Talking to someone whose done a lot of stuff in the Lakes over the years and he was finding most stuff E4 and above tended to need a clean... Guessing that this could be an issue in Mid-Wales?

[Fiend]

All I mentioned are clean enough. North facing / less accessible stuff could need a scrub.

[tomtom]

My only forray into the Rhinogs whilst living in Aber, resulted in a 1 hour walk in (through two unwelcome bogs) to find the crag really dirty and thus a bit scrittly.. the rock was fine underneath, but after getting half the way up one pitch we both decided it wasnt in our definition of 'fun' gave up and went and had some chips and a pint (there were three of us - one with not much experience too). It was a gorgeous June day, and the spot was really pretty - and I had a good time despite not really doing much... I'm afraid I havent a clue which crag it was on....

But if the walk in / route finding / adventure / mountain experience is your bag.... 

Stuff on Cadiar gets more traffic, and there are some mega multi-pitch severe routes there (Culfry arete?? - my spelling/welsh>english recognition is shite sorry..)... Bouldering wise, get your ass down to Cae Du. A fantastic spot - and the campsite is ace (fires alowed and literally on the beach) though it may have got a bit busier since it was featured in 'wild camping'....

[Fiend]

My only forray into the Rhinogs whilst living in Aber, resulted in a 1 hour walk in (through two unwelcome bogs) to find the crag really dirty and thus a bit scrittly.. the rock was fine underneath, but after getting half the way up one pitch we both decided it wasnt in our definition of 'fun' gave up and went and had some chips and a pint (there were three of us - one with not much experience too). It was a gorgeous June day, and the spot was really pretty - and I had a good time despite not really doing much... I'm afraid I havent a clue which crag it was on....

That is entirely possible. Was the pint and chips any good? Anyway that's why I gave a couple of specific recommendations. The crags of Rhinnog Fawr are an hour's walk but 50 mins of that are on a good path. The view is amazing, the little routes by the waterfall are a nice warm-up, and Rock Steady is superb. Y Grisau is a 30 mins walk, 25 mins on a good path and 5 mins heather scrambling, all the E3s are great (but go after a dry spell). Also Craig Y Merched is the Burbage Popular End of the Rhinnogs, 40 mins walk, 30 mins on good track, 10 mins on steep but existent path. Not so many harder routes there but Haw Lantern is probably E3 now the peg has gone, and there's a lovely E2 slabby arete on the nearby buttress.

[mark s]

Nesscliffe is ok even in sweltering heat,its got a lot of tree shade and the climbing is good.marlene and cones and currents fit into what u want and are both good routes.