[Jaspersharpe]

Yeah Pembroke is amazing. Echo what dave etc said re CyB. It's much less intimidating than some of the other crags and was good for me when I was a scared and weak kid. I recall leading E2/E3 there whereas seconding E1 at the bigger steeper crags felt harder / more frightening but was eventually much more of an experience.

Did Strait Gate at Mother Scarey which was very good,

Amazing route. That's the one that bridges out of the cave isn't it? Weird backwards climbing with crazy exposure above the sea, then a steep jug haul up the headwall to glory. Very cool.

[slackline]

Did Strait Gate at Mother Scarey which was very good,

Amazing route. That's the one that bridges out of the cave isn't it? Weird backwards climbing with crazy exposure above the sea, then a steep jug haul up the headwall to glory. Very cool.

I think you might be thinking of Inner Space (didn't do it, but definitely going to next time I'm there).

Strait Gate starts in a small cave, but climbs the arete then cracks above.

[SA Chris]

The bottoms of some routes get very greasy in certain conditions but you can usually find routes which aren’t to badly affected, e.g. at somewhere like Stennis Head where the climbing starts some way above water level. Often the greasyness gets less throughout the day and is gone by early afternoon.

Best take my preferred summer sea cliffs approach; Get up late, laze about, go to Ma Weston's for "breakfast" which you will wait for at least half an hour for, look at tide tables and decide where to go, wait for early morning clouds to clear and greasiness to subside, climb through until ealry evening, Get into pub for last food, stay for usual lock in, get to bed in early hours. Repeat. If in Cornwall,  take in a late afternoon cream tea.

[Jaspersharpe]

I think you might be thinking of Inner Space (didn't do it, but definitely going to next time I'm there).

Strait Gate starts in a small cave, but climbs the arete then cracks above.

I'm probably thinking of a mixture of both, it was over 20 years ago after all.

[Bonjoy]

What SA Chris said 
The enforced late starts and consequent late pub finishes are all part of what's good about the place.
Many of the bird restrictions are lifted on Aug 1st (this Sunday). I'd fully recommend Mowing Word. Adventurous (longish approach, long routes, ab in and hanging belay above water), but otherwise very friendly. Diedre Sud is the best easy route in Pembroke (Hard Severe) and might be a good one for Nat to lead (or you to solo (it's very juggy and solid)).

[SA Chris]

The two routes to the left of Diedre Sud - Snozwanger and Blowing in the Wind are both very good too. Both top end HVS, easy E1.

[Johnny Brown]

Just make sure you do Preposterous Tales. My favourite area is The Cauldron - quieter than the Leap and just as atmospheric. Worth a visit just for a wander around and a look at the stacks and the Arch.

[Bonjoy]

The Cauldron looks amazing. I’ve never climbed there. It’s one of the bits which isn’t included in the Rockfax, probably because few people bottle up to doing a route in there. Fully worth the walk, if only for a look.
I did consider recommending PT too, as it’s fully brilliant, but it is pretty full on (underground traversing, with limited gear, above the sea), especially if greasy or the sea is rough. Try doing a search on UKC about the route Paul and then decide if you like the sound of it. If you do go for it, bring two head torches, some jumars/tiblocs (a fall from the second pitch can leave you dangling in space, in a cave, inches above the sea). Can be anything from HVS to gnarly E4 depending on conditions. Almost guaranteed to be one of the best/worst days climbing you ever have.

[Johnny Brown]

Headtorches? Back around Bonjoy, back around.

The Cauldron is right by the Stack Rocks car park, no walk at all. No idea why its not in the Rockfax.

[Bonjoy]

I didn't have a torch but it would have helped with finding and placing gear. Personally I don't think you get the full tick until you've dragged a protesting wife/girlfriend through  .

[SA Chris]

Personally I don't think you get the full tick until you've dragged a  protesting soon to be ex wife/girlfriend through  .

Never got round to it, but general concensus seems to be E2 in all but optimum conditions. Interesting to read comments on UKC database.

[Johnny Brown]

4c tops, but not everyone copes well with greasy easy ground in the dark, with waves crashing below you. I loved the way the light levels went up and down with the waves and spume.

[Paul B]

can you get a divocrce before you get married?  I'm thinking that route souds like a good way of testing this.

[Pantontino]

If conditions/firing are ok you should go down Huntsmans Leap, just to experience the place, even if you only climb the easiest line out (E1/2). A much better exit would be Bloody Sunday at a very well protected and soft E4.

The start of Bloody Sunday has changed a bit, it is certainly a bit bolder than it was previously (plus it is quite polished). There was a loose block with an 'x' marked on it last summer. I wouldn't describe it as soft touch any more. Either way - it's a fantastic route (as are most things in the Leap).

[nodder]

I wouldn't describe it as soft touch any more

Is that cos you're old and fat?

[Pantontino]

I wouldn't describe it as soft touch any more

Is that cos you're old and fat?

Could be  ...

...but I did do all the moves on Pas de Chevre last night (look at me, look at me! ), so don't write me off just yet, there's still plenty of kick left in this old dog.

[Paul B]

Still not entirely sure where we'll be headed. The British weather isn't dropping us any obvious choices (apart from Scotland looking the wettest of all).

One result is that Nat not only scored a new job today, but re-negotiated the contract terms and has managed to land a weeks break between switching. Not bad.

[cheque]

There are 5 (!) volumes of replacement in the pipeline which, judging by more recent CC guides, should be excellent.  Supposedly out 2011-12. 

The word 'from the horse's mouth' a month ago was that Range East is finished and had been sent to be typeset. Range West is not far behind, apparently and, unlike the current download on the CC website, will have maps and topos. Range West won't be to everyone's tastes, but a visit is a unique experience and there's great potential for putting up new routes. 

+1 for using both the Rockfax and CC guides currently. The CC one is so vague you'll want to throw it in the sea without the (highly selective) Rockfax to help locate things.

[Paul B]

Just make sure you do Preposterous Tales. My favourite area is The Cauldron - quieter than the Leap and just as atmospheric. Worth a visit just for a wander around and a look at the stacks and the Arch.

Right its looking like Pembroke although we were checking Ferry prices as 18 deg and sunny for a fortnight seemed tempting for a while.

Seems my newly purchased select guide doesn't have the Cauldron?

[Paul B]

I couldn't believe who we bumped into in the bottom of the leap...



Is this the most unlikey 'Team Trad' there has ever been?

[dobbin]

whoa there - is that guy in the middle lost?

[Monolith]

Dirty little bummers! Look forward to hearing the trip report from this excursion!

[duncan]

The Cauldron looks amazing. I’ve never climbed there. It’s one of the bits which isn’t included in the Rockfax, probably because few people bottle up to doing a route in there. Fully worth the walk, if only for a look.
I did consider recommending PT too, as it’s fully brilliant, but it is pretty full on (underground traversing, with limited gear, above the sea), especially if greasy or the sea is rough. Try doing a search on UKC about the route Paul and then decide if you like the sound of it. If you do go for it, bring two head torches, some jumars/tiblocs (a fall from the second pitch can leave you dangling in space, in a cave, inches above the sea). Can be anything from HVS to gnarly E4 depending on conditions. Almost guaranteed to be one of the best/worst days climbing you ever have.

We did PT shortly after the first acent with just the pub description "climb into the cave...and then out again" and genuinely thought it was HVS.  Possibly not something for those of a nervous disposition though.

Anyone done Gate of Horn, Wish You Were Here or any of the other E3s in The Cauldron?  My man with the usually encyclopaedic Pembroke esoterica knowledge hasn't (a slight concern in itself).

[Johnny Brown]

All I've done is Wish you were here, but was psyched for more. It was E4.

[duncan]

Thanks JB.  E4 is a leeettle strong for me right now.  Further investigation by my Pembroke guru suggests The Gate of Horn has partially fallen down and may not have had an ascent for some time.  The Cauldron may have to wait 'til if when I'm leading E5 again.