[Banana finger]

Hiya,
       Does anybody know where to find the venue of this problem. I think nagul and poppys reach are there too. By bets y coed somewhere i think..........any info would be much appreciated....oh and any beta on ride the wild smurf would be even more appreciated!!
Thanks
Ben

[Andy B]

They're both in the guide Ben, but only get minor mentions in the locals/ obsure crags section. The description of how to get there and the rules for the problems are in there too.

[Doylo]

Your on the A5 travelling away from betws take a right turn towards Dolwydellan. Park in a layby on the left after about 5 minutes next to a house called Cae Du. Now for the tricky bit, walk back along the wall and jump over a locked gate on the left , now walk rightwards following a vague path. In winter you can see the crag so its obvious where your heading. Not so this time of year. Basically you climb the hillside quite steeply then cut back left to the crag. Its not actually very far just a blind approach. The problems are not eliminate. RTWS starts sitting with a sharp left crimp and a shit right undercut, power up rightwards into the two siedpulls and jump for the lip. Nazgals Traverse isn't in the guide but is a excellent powerful 7c. Check it out in the vid. Poppy's is on the lefthand overhang.

[Banana finger]

Cheers man, very much appreciated! It does indeed look like a top quality area.

[Andy B]

Nazgals looks class, and if the other problems aren't eliminates, why does Rhiw Goch get such a dismissive write up in the guide?

[Doylo]

Nazgals looks class, and if the other problems aren't eliminates, why does Rhiw Goch get such a dismissive write up in the guide?

cos panton wrote it 

[a dense loner]

prob cos its one boulder with a bog of an uphill walk in in the middle of nowhere. realistically there are prob 3 up probs with a traverse thrown in. havin said that i think its a great little overhangin boulder. whats there is good

[Pantontino]

Nazgals looks class, and if the other problems aren't eliminates, why does Rhiw Goch get such a dismissive write up in the guide?

So, when it says in the NWB description of RTWS: "The large jug on on Gap of Rohan is used for feet but not for hands." that is a mistake and you can use it for your hands? or am I missing something here?

I stand by the original write up:

"A steep little local crag, that is just about worth the journey and the stumble up through the bracken. Numerous minor/micro problems have been done but the most attractive lines can be found on the very overhanging offset wall."

Sure, it has some steep, intense problems, but it's not the Caseg boulder is it?

[Andy B]

Nazgals looks class, and if the other problems aren't eliminates, why does Rhiw Goch get such a dismissive write up in the guide?

So, when it says in the NWB description of RTWS: "The large jug on on Gap of Rohan is used for feet but not for hands." that is a mistake and you can use it for your hands? or am I missing something here?

Sure, it has some steep, intense problems, but it's not the Caseg boulder is it?

In case those questions are directed at me, I know nothing about the place, I was just asking a genuine question.

[Pantontino]

No Andy, that point was directed at our man Doylo.

I'm sure he'll be along soon to put me right (once he's finished falling off the last move of his Llandulas project, that is.  ).

[Doylo]

Its a typical smaller welsh venue, 5 decent problems then move on. The problems aren't eliminate, its pretty obvious that you don't go into the jug on Ride the Sit start since its a sit start to the v6 not the v3, I suppose doing it into the v3 would be a new link.

Floppy's V12
White Rider V7
Moria V7
Ride the Wild Smurf V6 ss V10
Nazgals Traverse V9

Not a bad little collection of steep problems IMO.

[Doylo]

Llandulas

Come on Mr Guidebook its LLANDDULAS 

[Pantontino]

Okay, fair points.

Are you resting today, or heading out to crush the Llanddulas beast?

[Doylo]

New strategy one day on one day off, fancy it tomorrow big boy?

[Pantontino]

Can't make it tomorrow, but Ding Dong mentioned something about meeting you there?

[apologies to other readers for turning this thread into a dating agency]

[Doylo]

you can't beat a bit of dogging in a grotty hole.
 Ding dong better pull his finger out, i need to be back for the England game!

Back on topic anyway 

[a dense loner]

big boy, n dogging in a grotty hole? why wasn't i invited?

[Doylo]

no spoons allowed 

[superfurrymonkey]

Nasgal looks right up my street 

[BB]

Nasgal looks right up my street 

Better that then Big Boy's ding dong being right up your street.