[chris_j_s]

Tim Emmett finally climbed his project seen on the Welsh Connections DVD. The footage of it looked amazing and really bloody hard so congrats to Tim. 

The route is called Muy Caliente! and gets E10 6c.

Blog entry from Tim (with slightly irritating code snippets visible throughout):
http://www.planetfear.com/blog.php?id=240

p.s. I thought this was news so I put it here rather than chuffing. Sorry if thats wrong! 

[Andy B]

F*in hell, that must be death on a stick!!!

[slackline]

F*in hell, that must be death on a stick!!!

 

[Jaspersharpe]

FFS! Don't you understand how the UK adjectival grading system works? You dick.

[Adam Lincoln]

Where is it - roughly - in Stennis Ford?

Just left of Ghost Train.

[Fultonius]

FFS! Don't you understand how the UK adjectival grading system works? You dick.

When I saw this thread I was going to reply but Andy B beat me to it. Properly    Where's the ROFL smiley when you need it

Nice work Tim, that's is a mighty impressive, bold and challenging looking line. You cvnts. 

[SA Chris]

And more importantly what is "glycogen dumping"?

Google.

http://dave.scottishclimbs.com/2010/05/04/the-glycogen-dump/

Just open your mouth and I will spoon  it in

[slackline]

Where's the ROFL smiley when you need it

[David S]

Fantastic effort Tim,  looked nails on Welsh Connections.

[Fultonius]

More info up now:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=55339

[Johnny Brown]

Good to see our own Somebody's fool finally showing his journalistic chops too.

[Paul T]

Tim built the two cruxes at TCA and used the bouldering fitness gained from this to help with both the moves and mental preparation. Though gone now, a number of Bristol climbers worked on the same problems and it gave them a good insight to what it might be like having to do moves that hard with deck-out potential.
Awesome effort Timmy.

[Baron]

The section up to the gear looks horrific. Then follows the crux - V7 apparently. Top end V7 I reckon.

[c.j.d.]

Nice one.

E10 6c eh?  Training on a V7 eh?  Isn't V7 about sport 7b+?  This surely means:

V7 = f7b+ = E6 6C.

Tim, you haven't got a dose of the Pearsons have you? 

[c.j.d.]

But really, what the fuck do I know? 

[Probes]

But really, what the fuck do I know? 

Not a great deal by the sounds of it   

[Doylo]

Nice one.

E10 6c eh?  Training on a V7 eh?  Isn't V7 about sport 7b+?  This surely means:

V7 = f7b+ = E6 6C.

Tim, you haven't got a dose of the Pearsons have you? 

Apparently its v7 after a french 8a christophe

[Jaspersharpe]

Yeah an 8a that you can hit the deck from the last moves of, then you've gotta put the gear in and do a hard 7A+ problem with no rest. Ergo not E6 6C.

You dick. 

[Pantontino]

And V7 is more like F7c...assuming it is sufficiently long.

[r-man]

So 8A is like a long V8.

long V8 + short V7

...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?

[Jaspersharpe]

Only if you do the downclimb on the same day.

[r-man]

Are you allowed to change shoes?

[nodder]

CJD in downgrade shocker!!!
The climbing world was sent into a spin by ageing rockstar CJD who emerged from a 15 year training spree to climb the hardest trad routes.  Sources claim that he had been secretly soloing some 50% of his climbing time, while working on his power on small rocks known as bouldering.  The man himself commented "everyone thought I was really lazy, but in reality i have been living a double life in order to prepare myself for the greater ranges.  I set myself these goals many years ago and with the help of a buddist monk I have been developing my visualisation to the point where i experience the route before climbing it.  This technique allows me to feel the fear and learn to control it in any situation, I have only one problem now, it appears i am so good I don't know how hard these things are" This tequniqe has been dubbed viewpointing, arguments rage on UKC as to weather this blows the onsight.  Other interesting tactics include filling a bouldering mat with broken bottles to make bouldering dangerous, and heavy drinking to aid coordination under pressure.

[Pantontino]

So 8A is like a long V8.

long V8 + short V7

...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?

No, F8a is like a long V8+ (8A is like V11),

so it would be: long V8+ + short V7 = E10

 

[Doylo]

And i thought v8+ had become a historic relic, watch out everyone this is v8+ Mach 2. A dangerous and virulent grade that is determined to forge its way into a guidebook near you!

[Pantontino]

And i thought v8+ had become a historic relic, watch out everyone this is v8+ Mach 2. A dangerous and virulent grade that is determined to forge its way into a guidebook near you!

It never went away, it was just resting, waiting for the right moment to strike! Ha, ha! 

[Probes]

So 8A is like a long V8.

long V8 + short V7

...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?

...hey, does that mean the Longridge traverse is E12?

surely it must be.

[SA Chris]

...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?

Only if you put a vat of caustic underneath it. Or a Dangerous Crocodile.

[slackline]

...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?

Only if you put a vat of caustic underneath it. Or a Dangerous Crocodile.

Does the Crocodile have to be snogging?

[Fultonius]

Or you could round up some spotters from Dumby, that always adds a few E-Grades!

[tc]

Or ask James Pearson to grade it.  Sorry, I'll get my coat...

[Stabbsy]

...hey, does that mean the Longridge traverse is E12?

surely it must be.

Hardest move on the Longridge traverse is 6b and it's relatively safe, so E4. Add a grade because it's quite sustained, so top-end E5.

That's how the British grading system works, right?

[Jaspersharpe]

I bet Mick Ryan's fucking gutted he can't join in on this thread.

[Probes]

...hey, does that mean the Longridge traverse is E12?

surely it must be.

Hardest move on the Longridge traverse is 6b and it's relatively safe, so E4. Add a grade because it's quite sustained, so top-end E5.

That's how the British grading system works, right?

Is that E5 for the onsight or the headpoint?

[T_B]

Birkett spied at the weekend making good progress on da shunt 

[Adam Lincoln]

Birkett spied at the weekend making good progress on da shunt 

Hmmm, that will be down to E9 then, if he repeats it. Considering Birkett doesn't believe in E10 

[Serpico]

Hardest move on the Longridge traverse is 6b and it's relatively safe, so E4. Add a grade because it's quite sustained, so top-end E5.

It's E10 just for the high break.