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Tim Emmett climbs Stennis Ford project (Read 13668 times)

chris_j_s

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Tim Emmett climbs Stennis Ford project
June 08, 2010, 10:29:04 am
Tim Emmett finally climbed his project seen on the Welsh Connections DVD. The footage of it looked amazing and really bloody hard so congrats to Tim.  :great:

The route is called Muy Caliente! and gets E10 6c.

Blog entry from Tim (with slightly irritating code snippets visible throughout):
http://www.planetfear.com/blog.php?id=240

p.s. I thought this was news so I put it here rather than chuffing. Sorry if thats wrong!  :shrug:

Andy B

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F*in hell, that must be death on a stick!!!

slackline

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F*in hell, that must be death on a stick!!!

 :lol: :lol: :lol:

Jaspersharpe

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FFS! Don't you understand how the UK adjectival grading system works? You dick.

Adam Lincoln

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Where is it - roughly - in Stennis Ford?

Just left of Ghost Train.

Fultonius

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FFS! Don't you understand how the UK adjectival grading system works? You dick.

When I saw this thread I was going to reply but Andy B beat me to it. Properly  :lol: :lol: :lol:  Where's the ROFL smiley when you need it :shrug:

Nice work Tim, that's is a mighty impressive, bold and challenging looking line. You cvnts.  ;)

SA Chris

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And more importantly what is "glycogen dumping"?

Google.

http://dave.scottishclimbs.com/2010/05/04/the-glycogen-dump/

Just open your mouth and I will spoon  it in :)

slackline

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Where's the ROFL smiley when you need it :shrug:




David S

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Fantastic effort Tim,  ;D looked nails on Welsh Connections.

Fultonius

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Johnny Brown

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Good to see our own Somebody's fool finally showing his journalistic chops too.

Paul T

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Tim built the two cruxes at TCA and used the bouldering fitness gained from this to help with both the moves and mental preparation. Though gone now, a number of Bristol climbers worked on the same problems and it gave them a good insight to what it might be like having to do moves that hard with deck-out potential.
Awesome effort Timmy.

Baron

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The section up to the gear looks horrific. Then follows the crux - V7 apparently. Top end V7 I reckon.

c.j.d.

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Nice one.

E10 6c eh?  Training on a V7 eh?  Isn't V7 about sport 7b+?  This surely means:

V7 = f7b+ = E6 6C.

Tim, you haven't got a dose of the Pearsons have you?  ;)

c.j.d.

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But really, what the fuck do I know? 

Probes

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But really, what the fuck do I know? 

Not a great deal by the sounds of it   :P

Doylo

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Nice one.

E10 6c eh?  Training on a V7 eh?  Isn't V7 about sport 7b+?  This surely means:

V7 = f7b+ = E6 6C.

Tim, you haven't got a dose of the Pearsons have you?  ;)

Apparently its v7 after a french 8a christophe

Jaspersharpe

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Yeah an 8a that you can hit the deck from the last moves of, then you've gotta put the gear in and do a hard 7A+ problem with no rest. Ergo not E6 6C.

You dick.  ;)

Pantontino

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And V7 is more like F7c...assuming it is sufficiently long.

r-man

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So 8A is like a long V8.

long V8 + short V7

...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?

Jaspersharpe

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Only if you do the downclimb on the same day.

r-man

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Are you allowed to change shoes?

nodder

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CJD in downgrade shocker!!!
The climbing world was sent into a spin by ageing rockstar CJD who emerged from a 15 year training spree to climb the hardest trad routes.  Sources claim that he had been secretly soloing some 50% of his climbing time, while working on his power on small rocks known as bouldering.  The man himself commented "everyone thought I was really lazy, but in reality i have been living a double life in order to prepare myself for the greater ranges.  I set myself these goals many years ago and with the help of a buddist monk I have been developing my visualisation to the point where i experience the route before climbing it.  This technique allows me to feel the fear and learn to control it in any situation, I have only one problem now, it appears i am so good I don't know how hard these things are" This tequniqe has been dubbed viewpointing, arguments rage on UKC as to weather this blows the onsight.  Other interesting tactics include filling a bouldering mat with broken bottles to make bouldering dangerous, and heavy drinking to aid coordination under pressure.

Pantontino

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So 8A is like a long V8.

long V8 + short V7

...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?

No, F8a is like a long V8+ (8A is like V11),

so it would be: long V8+ + short V7 = E10

 ;)

Doylo

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And i thought v8+ had become a historic relic, watch out everyone this is v8+ Mach 2. A dangerous and virulent grade that is determined to forge its way into a guidebook near you!
« Last Edit: June 11, 2010, 11:34:21 am by Doylo »

Pantontino

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And i thought v8+ had become a historic relic, watch out everyone this is v8+ Mach 2. A dangerous and virulent grade that is determined to forge its way into a guidebook near you!

It never went away, it was just resting, waiting for the right moment to strike! Ha, ha!  :devangel:

Probes

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So 8A is like a long V8.

long V8 + short V7

...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?

...hey, does that mean the Longridge traverse is E12?

surely it must be.

SA Chris

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...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?

Only if you put a vat of caustic underneath it. Or a Dangerous Crocodile.

slackline

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...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?

Only if you put a vat of caustic underneath it. Or a Dangerous Crocodile.

Does the Crocodile have to be snogging?

Fultonius

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Or you could round up some spotters from Dumby, that always adds a few E-Grades!

tc

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Or ask James Pearson to grade it.  ;) Sorry, I'll get my coat...

Stabbsy

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...hey, does that mean the Longridge traverse is E12?

surely it must be.


Hardest move on the Longridge traverse is 6b and it's relatively safe, so E4. Add a grade because it's quite sustained, so top-end E5.

That's how the British grading system works, right?

Jaspersharpe

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I bet Mick Ryan's fucking gutted he can't join in on this thread.

Probes

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...hey, does that mean the Longridge traverse is E12?

surely it must be.


Hardest move on the Longridge traverse is 6b and it's relatively safe, so E4. Add a grade because it's quite sustained, so top-end E5.

That's how the British grading system works, right?

Is that E5 for the onsight or the headpoint?

T_B

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Birkett spied at the weekend making good progress on da shunt  :whistle:

Adam Lincoln

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Birkett spied at the weekend making good progress on da shunt  :whistle:

Hmmm, that will be down to E9 then, if he repeats it. Considering Birkett doesn't believe in E10  ;)

Serpico

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Hardest move on the Longridge traverse is 6b and it's relatively safe, so E4. Add a grade because it's quite sustained, so top-end E5.


It's E10 just for the high break.

 

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