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Art Nouveau (Read 16581 times)

andyd

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#25 Re: Art Nouveau
December 09, 2015, 05:00:30 pm
+1 for it being a logistical headache
I've stood below it and walked away with a feeling that success will depend on
Taking a rope and harness.
Having pads that will sit well on the 18 inch of mossy platform that cowboy mentions
Not having too many people there (queues and swapping etc)

Do entropy's jaws too. Highball E5 as I remember. Excellent. Wings of unreason and track of the cat require limited gear and make amazing solos when you're in the zone (I'm not recommending you solo them btw).

Will Hunt

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#26 Re: Art Nouveau
December 09, 2015, 06:34:52 pm
Wings of unreason and track of the cat require limited gear and make amazing solos when you're in the zone (I'm not recommending you solo them btw).

I've done 'em  :)

Will have to get back soon when it's not blowing a gale.

mark

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#27 Re: Art Nouveau
December 09, 2015, 09:45:24 pm
I've been refraining from commenting on this as I didn't think it was too hard or scary...

I thought it was too hard and too scary. We had a rope running across the landing anchored at either side. The spotter clipped in to this and could then lean back, move mats around under the climber, and spot well. Pretty easy to set up and resulted in Mr Grimes being great and me being considerably less than great.

ArtNouveau by apeindex, on Flickr

Wood FT

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#28 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 09:49:58 am
Off topic but I just want to congratulate this thread for sparking an absent yearning for the Grit. The grim greyness of that last picture more than equals the alpenglow of Adam's earlier photo, such is the quality of the skyline.

JohnM

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#29 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 10:13:17 am
I think I saw a picture of this in the window of a Sports Direct near St Paul's Cathedral on my cycle to work.  Anyone know if this is correct or seen the climbing picture at other outlets?

 

GCW

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#30 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 11:30:15 am
Classic Dan in Pinks:


Eddies

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#31 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 12:44:36 pm
Useless spotters rope in my shot!

SA Chris

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#32 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 01:35:36 pm
I think I saw a picture of this in the window of a Sports Direct near St Paul's Cathedral on my cycle to work.  Anyone know if this is correct or seen the climbing picture at other outlets?

Yes. There's a field and trek poster in the local sports direct window, just was it when i was in buying a new shell suit wandering past. Almost certain it's the same route and, I believe, our very own Long / Brown Showponying his way up it.

Will Hunt

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#33 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 02:28:24 pm
I think I saw a picture of this in the window of a Sports Direct near St Paul's Cathedral on my cycle to work.  Anyone know if this is correct or seen the climbing picture at other outlets?

Yes. There's a field and trek poster in the local sports direct window, just was it when i was in buying a new shell suit wandering past. Almost certain it's the same route and, I believe, our very own Long / Brown Showponying his way up it.

Typical JB behaviour that, abetting an organisation involved in neo-slavery. Just what I'd expect  ::)

SA Chris

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#34 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 02:46:38 pm
I'll get a pic with my phone next time I'm passing.

Will Hunt

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#35 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 02:49:35 pm
I had a couple of feeler goes to get my eye in that passed without incident but then when inevitably at thirteen feet my left foot did a fandango and I hit the pad at a certain speed, mat and I were eventually caught in the arms of a pine tree a further twenty feet or so below where I'd started.

All I'm hearing is that it's basically safe.

Wasn't it Mr Dawes who said that he fell off something and had to keep running down the steep hill or he would fall over? Can't remember where I read that

That was Piece of Mind and it was his shoelace catching on a tree root that stopped him. "That lace probably saved my life that day..."

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#36 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 03:37:00 pm
"I wasn’t putting up the hardest routes there,
but while I was doing my own first ascents
around Sheffield, I would regularly go over
to test myself against other peoples’ routes,
kind of like a gauge if you like, by which to
measure myself, my own performance, my own
routes. I remember one day doing Bloodspeed,
Script for a Tear, A Fist Full of Crystals, Barriers,
all E6s, all on-sight, then trying to finish off with
Piece of Mind. I slipped off the last move and
bounced all the way down the slab, then ran
through the boulders, until my shoe lace caught
on a tree root and stopped me. The lace
probably saved my life."

Lesson is; don't wear velcros

nik at work

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#37 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 06:07:14 pm
Classic Dan in Pinks:


I miss climbing with Dan, it was always a massive adventure (and not just because of the climbing). A unique and splendid chap.

GCW

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#38 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 07:09:35 pm
Woah!!!!  Where has Nik at work been?!?!?!?

nik at work

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#39 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 07:16:01 pm
Says the running man...

GCW

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#40 Re: Art Nouveau
December 10, 2015, 11:29:37 pm
Touché, Dogtanian  Turtle.


mark s

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#41 Re: Art Nouveau
January 13, 2016, 10:52:54 am
brilliant climb,being tall i lanked passed the last move. seeing as i had no mats and spotters it will take that trade off.

that section of the skyline along with entropy slab and wings slab are in my opinion the best bit of grit anywhere

Will Hunt

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#42 Re: Art Nouveau
January 13, 2016, 12:07:08 pm
A common misconception amongst those who haven't been to Hen Stones  ;)

 

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