[Falling Down]

STG’s – Boulder 7a and Redpoint 7a(+) by end of June
MTG’s (End 2010) – Redpoint 7b+ (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine) & Onsight E5 (Right Wall or White Wall or Positron)
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a.

M –
T – am: 2K Row and Barbell complex @ gym
W – am hour run. pm fingerboard repeaters 1.5 hours
T –
F -
S -
S - 2 hours of kettlebell and fingerboard max hangs

A mixed week. Felt really good in gym and on fingerboard earlier in the week then my Labyrinthitis returned following the ear infection so I felt nauseous and dizzy until yesterday putting paid to any notions of climbing outdoors.

This weeks goals: Working in Aberdeen so gym, wall or running. Social stuff on next weekend so will try and climb outdoors on Friday evening.

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread Falling Down

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.1-3

M.Eve. Stanage with kids. Poppy followed a V.diff and the boys both did Rugosity Crack on TR - Ben flashed it.
T. Eve Cornice. K3. Moves coming together. Still not quite over stomach bug.
W. 
T. Eve. Cornice. K3 - mega progress - did crux 3x in a row - syked.
F. PM Comprehensive strength workout - weights and bodyweight exercises (offset pullups, maximal deadhangs, power cleans and deadlifts)
S. Eve. Friend's 40th in Derby - airrifle (joint 1st!) archery, pub, superb curry, live Blues (Buddy Worthington) 
S.

Good weight scores but will have regressed following weekend festivities. Chuffed with progress on K3 - cooler conditions helped. Although I am mainly bouldering on a rope on K3 still felt that a strength training top-up session was in order hence session on Friday especially as weekend was written off climbingwise. Kids did well at Stanage.

[nik at work]

8b, 8B

M - nothing
T - redpoint 7c, fail to redpoint 7c+/8a
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - lego, telly and fishfinger sandwiches
S - short bouldering/picnic session

Not a classic week, but wasn't expecting much due to various family commitments, next two weeks probably won't be very productive either. Excellent...

[JamesD]

Shameful week for training due to skintness/birthday celebrations

Monday: nothing
Tuesday: nothing
Wednesday: Go out for dinner with family, eat a shit load of ribs, american diner stuff, then got home Drink Scotch and watch movies
Thursday: Steadicam course, more drinking, impressive acrobatics display at The Controlled Falling Project, smoked a fat Montecristo Sublime....amazing, more drinking.
Friday: Recovery
Saturday: still aching a lot from steadicam training.
Sunday: go for a brief workout in the park with my rock rings

[chris05]

M: 30mins beastmaker, core work & theraband
T: 4 mile run, core & theraband
W-S: nothing due to work deadline approaching
S: 1hr beastmaker, core work & theraband

As expected a poor week due to impending deadline. The coming weeks should be better, hopefully with lots of climbing.

[Nibile]

mon - weights: pecs, triceps, shoulders. powerful.
tue - weights: back and biceps. very powerful, 3x100gk at pulley machine.
wed - weights: easy recovery session, lots of moves very low weight.
thu - rest.
fri - weights: complete session, good power at lat machine.
sat - bouldering outdoor: around 7a. see blog for details...
sun - rest.

almost every day wrist curls and stretch.
comments: power with the weights is good. the elbow doesn't hurt when doing weights so, let it be weights. i have started doing super sets for my back. i start doing the pulley machine (not more than once a week because it's very strenuous on my lower back), then i go to blast my biceps and the do the lat machine one handed.
or, i do the pulley machine and then immediately a set at the lat machine still one handed. i manage 6 reps @ 50kg.
will go on like this, then will probably start some fingerboarding to test things.

[nai]

STG - just secured a month off work so climb, climb, climb.
MTG - E3, 7something sport, train.
LTG - 7Cs next winter

M - zip
T - took the new Froggatt guide out for a test drive at Baslow, five nice routes/problems (and one bag of....) and a good reccy
W - more highballing at Baslow, only had 45 minutes but the reccy paid off and I managed another five cool highballs
T - back to Baslow, another 45 minute session but less successful, wasn't on the ball at all, only three successes.
F - Stanage up beyond Counts Buttress, did 10 things quite quickly then scared myself, lost confidence and started walking past more than I was attempting, only did another couple of routes before giving up.
SS - family stuff

My sinus problems of the previous week cleared up only to get a cold, but being able to breath for 24 hours was a bonus. Really enjoyed Baslow, the new guide has reignited my interest in the place, done about half the circuit and it's all good stuff, will certainly be going back to finish it off - nice one Cofe

[chillax]

STG: E3 at the Head. Projects at Ramore and Murlough
MTG: Onsight E4. Projects in Dublin and Wicklow
LTG: E7

Mon: Lots of pullups and pushups
Tues: Easy traversing at Ramore Head (seacliff crag 2 minutes walk from my new gaff)
Wed: Nowt
Thurs: Moved all my stuff into new house then had to cycle 4 miles after missing the last train. knackered.
Fri: Core session
Sat: Booze. Found out i can do pressups using only my thumbs. Not much use for climbing, but another drunken party trick!
Sun: Easy soloing and traversing at Ramore. Had my first experience of being puked at by an angry bird (of the avian variety at least) while about 6m up a slightly chossy corner. Interesting. PLeased enough about how I kept the oul head together. Half of lots of pullups and pushups in the evening. Right shoulder felt sore so didn't do the second set.

[Andy F]

Quiet week due to very impending arrival.

Tues - Awesome, a bit of bouldering, felt weak and tired
Sun - Awesome, a bit more and better bouldering, did some stuff I'd failed on previously.
Rest of week - sorting out stuff for impending arrival.

[Charles]

Short term goal: Onsight 7a > Improve Power Endurance (Process goal = 3 PE Sessions a Week) > Complete Powerband (By June)
Mid term goals: Redpoint F8a > Onsight F7b > Get fit for Mallorca  (All by September)
Long term goals: Onsight F7c > Climb font 8a (All by September 2011)

Monday: Played on Bracchiation Dance at the Cornice. Did up to top bolt but didn't link very top moves.
Tuesday: Rest.
Wednesday: Climbing works. Climbed a couple of good boulder problems. Tried to flash F7b circuit, fell off with two moves to go. Didn't do it in the end.
Thursday: Nothing.
Friday - Sunday: Drank Nottingham.

Poor week.

[Monolith]

Second consecutive week of no physical exercise whatsoever. However, wednesday is the end of university 2009/2010 so crushing will resume.

[tomtom]

STG 7b+

Mon: nothing
Tues: Almscliff. Small progress on Underhand, slapping and making the slot... nearly flashed the extension part (alone) but got wrong finger combo in pocket. Failed to get off the ground on fractal, still can't do ed's dyno  but a good eve
Wed: Ached like fuck
Thurs: Still ached
Friday: Gardoms North with Plattsy - good session, eventually managed Marks Roof LH, flailed on Marks roof, Got off the ground on soft on the G, and had fun on the slap right of it
Sat: Drove to Cambridge, got shedded
Sunday: Threw up a few times, watched the GP and went to the flicks...

all good 

[Three Nine]

STG get over virus/Boy George/Threadbare asap
MTG 10 7c onsights and 10 8a redpoints in Europe
LTG Tuppence 2011

M - still ill, visited Guy in LGI cardio ward
T - 1 hour in the drizzle on v easy things at Almscliff, felt rough
W - virus moving to chest, struggled up some problems at Citybloc Leeds 2 hours
T - as W but for 1.5 hours
F - Almscliff, milage bloddering up to 6Cish, 2.5 hours
S - rest, drove south, coughing up loads of shit
S- Anstey's, failed to do BG (what is wrong with me!), did Empire twice, expectorating lots still!

[roddersm]

STG Goals:

Trad: Pitchfork Wit E1, Birdie, sightseer both E2, Pump up the valium, lighweight lewis denvers both E3, Granny by Gasight E3 5c,(All Muckross).
Rail Road E1, Marconi E3 5c, Jolly Roger E3, GBH E3 (Fairhead), Other Fish E4 6b(E5?) (Culdaff, Headpoint), Zodiac E2 5c, Thank you and goodbye E3 6a (Culdaff)
Boulder: Chubbs Peterson 7a(+?) Fairhead , Carbide 7a Left Overs 7a+ Fairhead, Split Pea arete 6b+
sport onsight 7a somewhere. debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ and lots of other good routes in the verdon.

LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: Onsight 7b. rp 7c. Climb lots of stuff in Verdon, Ceuse,Buoux and Siurana.
Boulder: 7C .
Big Wall: the Nose on El Cap. Astroman. Lotus Flower tower.

Mon  Rest
Tue   Climbing wall session 1 hours bouldering. 6 * 10 pull ups. Run 45 min..
Wed  Rest.
Thur  Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering.
Fri     Running 46 min.
Sat   Easy trad. 1 Severe solo, 1 HS and 2 VSs. 
Sun  Climbing 1 HS, Severe solo. cleaned and worked the direct start to a hard, bold E4 on top rope. Felt at least E5 and may or may not have been done before but that doesn't matter because its brilliant. Managed to link it once so might be able to lead it but its dangerous and the moves are right at my limit so we'll see. 

Low motivation at the minute and can't put my finger on why. This E4/5 hopefully will kick start my motivation as well as ticking of an E2 and E3 at my local crag that I haven't done. Both need cleaned first so I need to get my arse in gear. No motivation for big trad at the minute but hopefully that will come once I've ticked a few routes. 

[Davo]

Monday: Fingerboarded (weighted) and then campused and did assisted one armers.

Wednesday: Kilnsey, finally did Grooved Arete. The siege ends. Got really nervous and fell off twice with really smeggy conditions, then a breeze appeared and managed to wobble my way to the top.

Thursday: Wall, power session. Brief bit of campusing and then a big move, big hold compression based session.

Saturday: Cave, arrived and for 20 mins conditions were good. Then it turned shit. Tried Trigger Cut and In Hell start again. No real progress. Then had a massive session of power endurance.

Sunday: Lpt, thought I would have recovered by the late afternoon. Turns out I was wrong and was actually wrecked when I tried Mussell Beach. Still Lpt is brilliant and just wish it wasn't tidal.

A mixed week. Glad to finally do GA. Bit worried about losing power due to routes. No success at weekend but did a lot of climbing and hopefully will have been good for the fitness.

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 59kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.

M: Routes at Castleberg. Warm up on 6c and did a 7a+ first go. Doubly pleasing as I tried it once before a few weeks back and couldn't do the bottom moves.
T: Traversing at Craig y Longridge!
W: Deadhangs and repeaters.
T: Routes at Castleberg. Nothing of note done. Poor session then got soaked walking home.
F: Rest Day
S: Rest day.
S: 4 hr walk in Lakes.

As mentioned a few weeks back my vague plan was to do some more 7a+'s, so to do 2 in 2 weeks is great. Need to crack on and do my first 7b now. I've tried one at Malham but that isn't ideal because its a bit hard for my climbing partner there. So the plan for next week is to locate my project 7b...

[JamesD]

I feel frankly ashamed of my piss poor performance the last week or two.

Back on it this week, starting off with a swim tonight, thanks for the motivation all

[lagerstarfish]

I feel frankly ashamed of my piss poor performance the last week or two.

Me too (ashamed of my own performance, not James').

Managed to get to The Works on Saturday. Surprised myself by doing OK. 6c didn't feel that hard and 6b was approaching a rest.

[webbo]

Mon.core exs and finger board.managed to do my one handed stuff with no assistance.
Tue.nowt
Wed.wall managed a v6 i couldn't do last 2 visits plus a bit of progress on other problems.
Thu.out on bike 1 and half hours.
Fri. friends round for dinner drank a bit.
Sat.dropped daughter of for work in york.went leeds wall.good session.3 v5s 1 v5/6 and 3 v6s.went to visit mum in warrington.picked daughter up from work.
Sun. out on bike 2 and half hours felt hard windy as hell.

training feels like its going ok.just feel(and look) fat as fuck.plus i seem to aches and pains in most of my joints and muscles.

[lagerstarfish]

feel(and look) fat as fuck.plus i seem to aches and pains in most of my joints and muscles.

I've got this too and I only do Font grades, whereas you do V grades. I think that it is a virus spread via 'tinterweb.

[Plattsy]

Boulder 7A+

M: Not a lot.
T: Some pressups.
W: Not a lot
T: Some pressups.
F: Gardoms North with Tomtom. Repeated Marks LH and played on Marks until I tore something in my neck. Tried to continue climbing but enthusiasm wained and discomfort took over.
S: Very sore neck.
S: Very sore neck.

My neck is still knackered. 

[petejh]

Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7a+, 7B, E4.
Goal for May June - Foulish Ghoulish (pen trwyn), Plaqued by Fools (pt), Foil/Stroll On/Quasar (pass).

m. Tradding, Cwm Glas Bach. E1 E2 E3 E4.
t. Strained ring finger by getting it caught in a hold whilst moving up - route setting a 6a of all things. Not too bad though.
w. Turkish get-ups.
t. nowt
f. Cleaning and bolting another two killer *** routes.
s. A.M. cleaning new route in the rain. P.M bit of work/bouldering at indi.
s. Easy bouldering at indi.

Had to wait for skin to heal up so couldn't get the sport goals done. That plus finding some really good new routes to be done before the Slate guide is published is now taking my focus away and put me back a month. Can't complain.

[Mike Tyson]

STG is repeat the things I have done at the Bowderstone - Powerpinch, Picnic Sarcastic etc
LTG is boulder V9/7C, onsight V5/6

M- Nothing
T- Nothing
W- 30 sit-ups, 30 press-ups, 30 pull-ups.
T- Nothing
F- Nothing
S- Nothing, went out, got hammered.
S- Nothing, went to BBQ and garden party, was on the decks for 5 and a half hours straight. Awesome.

Oh dear, not a very good week apart from doing a Sahsa type mix on Sunday!

[Barratt]

STG: Be able to climb (and try hardish) in the Lakes in 1 weeks time.
LTG: Consolidate 7a, bag some 7b's

Mon: Nowt
Tues: Core. Sit ups, crunches and planks followed by rehab.
Wed: Light Beastmaker and rehab.
Thurs: Nowt
Fri: Nowt
Sat: First session at Works since injury. Went, errrr crap. Shoulder was in bits an hour later. Too much to soon.
Sun: Get very drunk.

[andybfreeman]

STG - stay fit and crush in Spain. 7c or 8a redpoint, onsight a 7, 7C at albarracin
MTG - just revenge and the cider soak at anstey's. 7B or harder int he forest this winter
LTG - more 8a routes then progress form there, boulder 7C in font and the UK

M - rest
T - circuits at TCA
W - problems and circuits at TCA
Th - Rest as skin completely trashed
F - very light fingerboard session
Sa - weather shit so long session at TCA with my brother
Su - Anstey's. pleased to feel very comfortable on the 6c/7a warm up after failing to get to the first bolt 2 weeks ago. Had 4 longish goes at the cider soak. Struggle with the beginning on first go then relaxed a bit and pissed through that next go. Did all the moves including the top that I'd bottled last time out. Struggled to link the middle section consistently. There's plenty of scope for refinement to my sequence but the aim for next week is to get it done in three chunks; floor to jug/crimps, there to break and break to top


Weight holding steady, low 67s average but consistently into the 66s for the second half of the week

[webbo]

feel(and look) fat as fuck.plus i seem to aches and pains in most of my joints and muscles.

I've got this too and I only do Font grades, whereas you do V grades. I think that it is a virus spread via 'tinterweb.

i do v grades at places where they do v grades.yesterday i was in northumberland where they do font grades,so i did font grades.this did not seem to get rid of the fat virus cos i'm fatter than ever today.

[Fiend]

Goals:
Somehow master or at least cope with Aberdeen sea-cliff climbing.

This week:
Mon - 2 steady trad leads / 30 mins stomping, pleasant enough.
Tue - 1 easy trad lead, not really anything progressive
Wed - 2 challenging trad leads, satisfying, tried hard, did well / gentle weights
Thu - n/a / gentle weights
Fri - 2 hours easy bouldering, pleasant enough
Sat - n/a / gentle weights
Sun - 2-3 hours steep dogging, good training, felt beasted, nearly got the rotpunkt but ran out of beta/strength.

Comments:
Not a bad week overall, but pretty much just training as having to stick to local venues. Wed was reassuring and Sun was good training. Finger generally improved, neck still getting stiff in mornings but improving with weights. Skin trashed from Sun. Hmmm. Yeah I think this week suited what was on offer. Maybe need to be a bit smarter with schedules and stuff.

[iain]

STG: find some time back on a project, maybe weekend after this one
MTG: Onsight 7b
LTG: Freaky Ralph and Infinite Gravity

Mon-Fri: Can't remember much, was feeling crap and unmotivated, oh and gave myself a limp practice falling 

Sat-Mon: In North Wales visiting friends and for first trad of the year and first time ever climbing in the pass. What I got done whilst trying to remember how to place gear was bloody brilliant. Scared myself stupid at Dinas Cromlech but there are some utterly amazing lines to go back for.

Peak this weekend which will be good, even if it won't be the best conditions.

[cmerch]

Goals: 8a and V8
Mon: 5 mile run and clean gutters on house
Tues: 20 min session on fingerboard
Wed: 4.5 mile hilly run
Thurs: 5k run and lite weight workout
Fri: 7 hour drive to the beach for Memorial Day Holiday.
Sat: Play in surf with 6 year-old grandson
Sun: 4 mile run and play in surf and frisbee
Rather light week for climbing, good on runs. Throwing Frisbee and playing in surf took a toll on left knee, still rather sore. Hope to climb this Sat.
P.S.: Thanks Shark for the reminder!  Cheers from the USA!