[James Yeah]

So i've had a bit of a search on here and only found a couple of suggestions so i'm posting this to ask for more places.

I'm a proper noobie, only been climbing/bouldering for about 2 months but i'm properly addicted already and want to get out of the climbing centre and try some outdoor bouldering.


I was wondering if any of you could possibly list some locations for outdoor bouldering in the West Midlands.

So far the 2 places i've found mentioned have been Roaches and Grinshill.  I'm just wondering if there is anywhere else around the Midlands worth visiting for someone who is a bit shit but overly enthusiastic.

I'd like to pop somewhere tomorrow really so any help would be most marvelous.

Thanks.

[tomtom]

Theres loads to go for at the Roaches - a good a place to start as any. Be prepared to not climb as high grades outside as you do inside - the real rock is quite different from plastic!

[James Yeah]

Ha i can barely climb indoors tbh with you.   Just thought outdoor might be a bit nicer than staying inside and melting to death.

Cheers for the help though, looks like Roaches is the best bet for tomorrow then 

[erm, sam]

The roaches is super, though it will be super hot and greasy.
I think there is a particularly brilliant beginners boulder in the lower tier boulders. After you go through the gate into the boulders proper one of the first boulders on the left, but to the right of the path through the boulders has a slab of varying steepness split by a crack.
It is a really good spot to start getting the idea of smearing etc.
And then right at the far left hand end of the lower tier is another good beginers boulder though steeper and more polished...
Apologies for the hopeless descriptions, after a quick wander round you will see them, and others..
Have fun.

[James Yeah]

Brilliant, cheers for that.  I'll definitely go looking for those first then. 

Pretty excited, just hope my dodgy wrist holds up.


Thanks for your help mate.

[Johnny Brown]

Where are you James? There is decent stuff in shropshire that might be closer.

[James Yeah]

I'm in Birmingham mate, so you're probably right.   Where about in Shropshire?

[Johnny Brown]

There's a band of sandstone hills about 8 miles north of Shrewsbury. Nesscliffe and Grinshill have the best bouldering, but there's a fair bit scattered around.

[SA Chris]

Just thought outdoor might be a bit nicer than staying inside

I can almost guarantee it will. Lower tier gets a bit of shade too. There are loads of boulders you can play on there, regardless of grade. Some nice easy slabs behind the huge boulder in the middle. Don't wast ttime trying things you can't get in the first couple of goes again and again, just go for mileage and enjoyment of climbing on rock.

[James Yeah]

Johnny - Cheers mate, we'll go exploring around Grinshill and see what we can find, thanks for your help.

SA Chris - I'll keep that in mind cheers.  Just wanna go experience what it's like to climb on real rocks, never done it so really eager to have a go and see what it's like.  I'll def stick to easier routes and just have fun today, i'm not good enough to do anything but that anyways :D


Thanks for all your help guys.

[granticus]

The Lower Churnett valley is very good and very close to Birmingham, right next to Alton Towers, tis in the peak bouldering guide (despite not being in the peak).

[SA Chris]

Not spent much time at Churnet, but don't recall much in the v(.)easy category

[James Yeah]

Ended up at Grinshill.  Probably didn't end up at the proper place to boulder, but found somewhere there and had loads of fun, spent ages just climbing about then set ourselves easy little routes.   

I'm definitely hooked on outdoor bouldering now although my hands and arms look like they've been put through a sander.


I'll check out churnett valley soon as well, even if there's nothing that easy there it would be good to know what's near me

Cheers for all the help guys, i had an awesome day thanks to you lot

[Johnny Brown]

Nice one James, I used to love Grinshill. Great spot to hang out on a nice day. Probably a good thing you didn't go to The Roaches on your first trip out - subsequent venues might have been disappointing...

[granticus]

Not spent much time at Churnet, but don't recall much in the v(.)easy category

There's plenty of easier stuff at Churnett, good problems on the wall left of the steep stuff at Cottage Rocks (some of the steeper stuff here is worth a look, it's powerful but not super difficult), the high traverse at Ousal is all easy moves (if a little pumpy), there are some easier problems at Wrights too and Virgin Wall traverse is good to work in sections...

[SA Chris]

I stand corrected. Like I said, not spent much time there.

[James Yeah]

Johnny Brown -  I watched a video of roaches earlier today and i reckon you're right, the place looks amazing, definitely gonna head down there soon but Grinshill was loads of fun as well.

Granticus  - Ta for that, we'll head down Churnet soon as well, now you've said it's got some easier stuff i'll definitely be making the trip.


I think this is the start of an expensive but fun summer! :D

[James Yeah]

Really sorry for bumping this back up but i have a quick (silly) question.

Is this a guide for Churnett valley bouldering?  I think it is but i'd just like to make sure before i drive there today. I only ask as this whole outdoor bouldering thing is pretty confusing.   (Probably as i don't own a bouldering guide book, can anyone recommend one of those for me as well please?) 

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/guidebooks/sample_chapters/staffs%20grit%20green%20boulders%20webguide.pdf

Thanks for your help.

[Krank]

This is the guide to sort you out in the peak
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Peak-District-Bouldering-Rupert-Davies/dp/0954813111

This site is pretty usefull
http://www.peakbouldering.info/

The BMC link is for the smaller, hidden blocs around the Churnet, the guide i linked has all the main areas of the churnet and would be fine for a first visit.

[James Yeah]

Brilliant thanks.

I'll order that guide book for next time.

Cheers for the Peak Bouldering link as well, checking that out now.   I take it that it just shows locations and not the routes?  (not really a problem as i'm pretty rubbish but wouldn't mind a rough guide to routes there)


Thanks again for your help, it's really appreciated.

[grimer]

Or, to blow another trumpet...


... try this one

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3298

which is great for the churnet, and if you try out the free sample chapter, gives bouldering and routes on the lower tier of the roaches.

[joeisidle]

What Grimer said, if you're looking for nearby Staffordshire bouldering and are planning to make more than one visit the BMC guide is the way to go. The coverage of the Roaches and the Churnet Valley is a bit more comprehensive than the Peak Bouldering guide and (imo) its a bit easier to see where problems go and finish, which can be a bit of an issue at Churnet

[James Yeah]

Grimer - Thanks, i'll pick that book up this week.

Joeisidle - Cheers for confirming that, will def be picking that up then.


We ended up at Churnett yesterday, went to toilet block first then to Wright's rock.   I hadn't quite realised how crazy hard some routes are, I have even more respect for you guys doing 6 -7 graded routes now.  I don't even know how you hold some of the holds.

Also my hands are absolutely ruined, gritstone? is properly harsh.   

I also really need to buy a bouldering mat, the fear kicks in at certain heights without a safe landing.

[granticus]

Also my hands are absolutely ruined, gritstone? is properly harsh. 

Tis sandstone conglomerate my friend and it is quite harsh but it's all relative (Bodmin Granite now that's properly harsh!)

I also really need to buy a bouldering mat, the fear kicks in at certain heights without a safe landing.

 

And good effort on getting out there and going for it on relatively little knowledge/ information.  Making me feel nostalgic about my early days bouldering/ climbing 

[Fiend]

Churnizzle ma nizzle. Get that BMC guide it's the bizzle. Also moisturise them paws.