[Houdini]

Ah, on a safe as houses/easy trip:


Far end of the Rainbow Walls area (the plateau) Jugs Mawr, E2, great natural gear, unusual spot, slate/dolorite mixture.

Journey To The Centre of the Earth, E1 clip-up on monster holds down in The Lost World.

[Houdini]

nb     Best to approach from Nant Peris for the plateau.

[Paul B]

Thanks Houdini!

Hoseyb - Houd nailed it, sport climber looking for a bit of a change. I'm up for runouts but really messy potential just isn't my thing (regardless of how easy it is, I'm fairly accident prone).

Managed to get to the rainbow late yesterday evening, f*cking incredible slab of rock. Collossus wall also looked immense. I think both walls were more what I was expecting out of slate i.e. very imposing.

Watching the way nat cruised up Pull my Daisy I might not need another partner. Rat fingers and slate seem to go well together. Anyway we do own ascenders 

(Approached from the top as it was getting on a bit).

[Fiend]

Almost all of these routes you can ab off and strip the gear if the second doesn't want to follow.

Peenuts are the bizzle, mine are worn down half a size due to using them all the time. I rated RPs and Offsets too. The original 00,0,1/2,3/4 nuts ARE useful because they've got a larger surface area, not as versatile as RPs etc but more reassuring.

[Paul B]

Peenuts are the bizzle

I (randomly) have two of these and until this weekend never had them fit in anything. I went into V12 seemed to get some top notch advice which was nice. Everyone (apart from silver feet) seem very wary about astro-nuts.

[Fiend]

It would be easier to list what I HAVEN'T used Peenuts on....but out of the many occasions I have, I've found them particularly useful on quarried grit (peg scars), fine grained grit / sandstone (flaring seams), culm sandstone / greywacke (thin cracks), slate, rhyolite (thin twisty cracks), schist etc. Not so much on Lime nor Granite.

[Paul B]

ok I think that should do me for now:

E1 5c - Fools Gold
7a+ - Geordie Warcry
E2 5c - German Schoolgirl
E1 5b - Last Tango
E3 5c - Here comes the Dervish
E5 6a - Swinging by the Bell
E1 5b - Bella Lugosi is Dead
E2 5c - Pull my Daisy
E5 6a - Poetry Pink
E4 6a - Ride the Wild Surf
E3 5c/6b+ - Collosus
F7c+/8a - Dark Half
E1 5c/F6a -Gnat Attack
E2 5b - Massambula
E4 5c - Scarlet Runner
Vs 4c - Seamstress
F7a+ - heading the shot
E5 6b - Splitstream
E2 5c - German Schoolgirl
E5 6a - waves of inspiration
E4 6a - THe Mau Mau
E4 6a - Jack of Shadows
E4 6a/6c+ - Watch Me Wallaby Wank Frank
E2 5c - slippery people
F8a - manic strain
F7c - gin palace
E2 6a - Psychotherapy.
E3 5c - Is it a crime?
E3 5c - never as good as the first time
F6c - G'Day Arete
F7a ish - Great Bores of Today (not in graded list)
E4 ??? - wow Wow (not in graded list)
E1 - 5c Patellectomy
F6a+ - Journey To The Centre of the Earth
F6a+ - Horse Latitudes (left of bella lugosi)
F6c- Off the Beaten Track
E3 5c - Jugs Mawr
E4 6a - Jack of Shadows
F7a+ - Where are my Sensible Shoes

Grades extracted from here
Wiki here

Thats more than plenty for me to getting along with. I'll make sure to try them in a sensible order as from what I've experienced so far there might be a few arse twitching moments caused by that list 

[Houdini]

Good luck w/ Gin Palace, it's fucking desperate.



Short Stories is so much better than Watch Me Wallaby etc..   Do that.

Ask a local wad for state of Chitra, I've a half-memory of something happening to the lower-off in a scree fall?  One of the best spots in the quarries, that.

[Paul B]

Please don't think for a minute that the above is a tick list, things like gin palace are likely to spit me out crying but I intend to give it at least one go so I can declare it sh*t one day with reason.

Which area is Chitra at? (I've added them on my copy, can't modify the above).

[Stubbs]

The footage of Nic on Gin Palace on Hard XS is brilliant, it looks horrible!

[Houdini]

Which area is Chitra at?

[Paul B]

The footage of Nic on Gin Palace on Hard XS is brilliant, it looks horrible!

yeah exactly and thats Nic on it. Tom R commented on using offwidthing technique and we all know what his fetish is. That thing is going to spit me out in seconds.

[Stubbs]

Please just make sure there's someone there with a video camera for your attempt!

[nodder]

pretty sure chitra got buried.   

[tobym]

Some good footage of Dawes, Hazel Findlay and Matt Segal on Gin Palace, on Monkey see Monkey do, also.

[Pantontino]

Chitra is still possible, but perhaps only F7c now as the start has been filled in a bit.

In the absence of the forthcoming guide (which I'm just doing the final tweaks on now) there is plenty of material on the internet. Not sure if others have given the link, but there is a sample chapter for the new guide here:

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=247

(NB. Having checked the two routes right of Bela Lugosi recently I would say that the left hand one is a slightly bold F6a+, i.e. take some wires, and the right hand line is E2 5c. Both are very good though)

There are also lots of mini topos and info on new slate routes here:

http://news.v12outdoor.com/climbing-news/

and a classic climb route card here:

http://news.v12outdoor.com/2010/03/19/looning-the-tube-hvs-5b/

As for your tick list - it looks pretty good to me, although there are lots of new school clip ups which are worth a look at once you've become more familiar with the layout of the quarries. For example, Chummer's Wish You Here (F7c/+) at the very top of Australia is stunning.

[Pantontino]

Hit me with the knowledge...

Where are my Sensible shoes/Cig Arete etc  - From Rainbow Slab carry on along the same level to the short walls beyond.

Just to clarify, to reach the Cig arete level from the rainbow slab - after you have walked across, you need to go up a level via the broken steps by the obvious winding house then walk back left (passing the Untouchables arete - F8a that Ding Dong soloed a few years back) If you continued further right (instead of going up the stairs) you would come to Chitra.