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Stretching (Read 3426 times)

r-man

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Stretching
April 22, 2008, 12:50:30 pm
Interesting...

http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/rock_stretchingthetruth.pdf

Some quotes:

-Relevance for climbers: you will have less grip strength if you stretch your forearms before climbing…probably!

-some research suggests that people at either end of the flexibility spectrum have a slightly higher propensity for injury.

-Does stretching after exercise alter the level of discomfort from what is known as ‘delayed onset muscular sore-ness? Probably not.

-flexibility does not equate to instability. For instance, a very flexible ankle does not mean you will sprain it regularly. That unfortunate propensity, like a dislocating shoulder, is greatly influenced by muscular control.

-[stop] ‘windmilling’ your arms, or (worse still) ‘windmilling’ each arm in an opposite direction. Whoever thought of this as a good warm-up must have been on Class A drugs.

-A warm-up that is thorough and related to the activity that follows is linked with better performance and fewer injuries. One study even showed that if you thought positively about your warmup, your performance was better!

« Last Edit: April 22, 2008, 12:57:48 pm by r-man »

Rice Boy

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#1 Re: Stretching
April 22, 2008, 01:30:08 pm
"some research suggests that people at either end of the flexibility spectrum have a slightly higher propensity for injury"

Form what little I know the two extremes are hypoextension (lack of flexibility) and hyperextension (apparent flexibility). I say apparent because although on the face of it someone may have +10 ape index or be able to get there foot in their mouth they may not have strength in that position.  A friend is very hyperextensive and whilst he is known to like waxing his ego in yoga classes he's also the ability to dislocate his knee and shoulder in certain climbing positions.

Yoga class analogy (as this is where I'm gleaning this from):

In one stretch a hyperextensive person will appear to be doing the posture correctly but will in fact, to the very well trained eye, be doing it incorrectly (e.g. bracing the legs back etc.) this is more evident when they struggle with another albeit very similar posture.

A hypoextensive person will just appear to struggle in the posture (much more common esp. in men)

End of waffle.

a dense loner

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#2 Re: Stretching
April 23, 2008, 07:45:16 pm
note to r-man

-[stop] ‘windmilling’

arjelyn06

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#3 Re: Stretching
May 13, 2010, 03:20:52 am
"some research suggests that people at either end of the flexibility spectrum have a slightly higher propensity for injury"

Form what little I know the two extremes are hypoextension (lack of flexibility) and hyperextension (apparent flexibility). I say apparent because although on the face of it someone may have +10 ape index or be able to get there foot in their mouth they may not have strength in that position.  A friend is very hyperextensive and whilst he is known to like waxing his ego in yoga classes he's also the ability to dislocate his knee and shoulder in certain climbing positions.

Yoga class analogy (as this is where I'm gleaning this from):

In one stretch a hyperextensive person will appear to be doing the posture correctly but will in fact, to the very well trained eye, be doing it incorrectly (e.g. bracing the legs back etc.) this is more evident when they struggle with another albeit very similar posture.

A hypoextensive person will just appear to struggle in the posture (much more common esp. in men)

End of waffle.

Yeah, hypoextensive persons are really hard to become flexible and to have their good body postures, while hyperextensiv persons are bad too. We have the saying that all the deficit and excess things in this world are bad. Having the proper flexibility level of our body were very important.

Gus

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#4 Re: Stretching
May 13, 2010, 08:54:08 am
Save the windmilling for Friday nights out in Leek!

Fultonius

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#5 Re: Stretching
May 13, 2010, 11:03:32 am
I've pretty much given up stretching - especially my forearms - and I seem to be picking up less tweaks than I used to.

Pretty much lacking in SCIENCE but it seems to work for me!

Rocksteady

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#6 Re: Stretching
May 13, 2010, 11:25:08 am
Some science:

http://www.pponline.co.uk/encyc/warming-up-proprioceptive-neuromuscular-facilitation-stretching-dynamic-stretching-or-static-stretching-which-is-best-3931

From the small amount I've read on this area, static stretching is crap, but range-of-movement/dynamic stretching (i.e. replicating the movements you perform when climbing as part of your warm up at low intensity) is a good idea.

A variation of windmilling therefore might not be a bad idea.

Yeah I'm the weirdo at the wall with the freaky warm-up...

flyguy

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#7 Re: Stretching
May 13, 2010, 11:29:04 am
If you windmill on your back is this helicoptering? :-\

rodma

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#8 Re: Stretching
May 13, 2010, 12:51:11 pm
If you windmill on your back is this helicoptering? :-\

If you windmill whilst falling through the air and land with the grace of a metal coffin, then it's helicoptering.

psychomansam

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#9 Re: Stretching
May 13, 2010, 12:54:40 pm

From the small amount I've read on this area, static stretching is crap, but range-of-movement/dynamic stretching (i.e. replicating the movements you perform when climbing as part of your warm up at low intensity) is a good idea.

A variation of windmilling therefore might not be a bad idea.

Yeah I'm the weirdo at the wall with the freaky warm-up...

Excellent. I also do certain "exercises" (physio) down the wall sometimes. had some funny looks before now at the works. it does admittedly look like i'm just doing press ups badly...

SA Chris

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#10 Re: Stretching
May 13, 2010, 02:01:24 pm
I've pretty much given up stretching - especially my forearms - and I seem to be picking up less tweaks than I used to.


No offence Ali, but you giving advice on injury avoidance is like Paul B picking your lottery numbers.

Fultonius

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#11 Re: Stretching
May 13, 2010, 02:34:42 pm
Chris, that may be true, but I've not had an over-use related climbing injury in ages! And I have had my fair share of injury-related experience, so...I know what I'm talking about!

Maybe. ;)


SA Chris

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#12 Re: Stretching
May 13, 2010, 07:44:34 pm
The only reason you haven't had an over-use related injury recently is that you have been too non over-use injured to use anything.

 

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