[rginns]

mandmdirect have quite a lot of 5:10/adidas models going very cheap.  Heard terrible things about these but I took a punt and got the anasazi velcros and mocs (not-niad ones) from here, seem good and much the same as 'old' five tens.  Just ordered another pair of velcros since they came back in stock in my size.  Order one full number size up from pre adidas 5:10 and can't go wrong.
https://www.mandmdirect.com/01/details/AD31106?lid=QB1

edit: don't think the above sizing rule applies to dragons https://www.mandmdirect.com/01/details/AD30870?lid=QB1  worth a check on bananafingers' shoe comparitor tool

I got a pair of the mocs and the velcros from there and although the mocs are too big (will be used for all day multipitch stuff), I bought the right size velcros and they're perfect, although a whole size up from the old ones I used to get.
The rubber and general fit seems just as good though, although the straps and the upper seem more cheaply made.
Can't go wrong for 50 notes for a general cragging shoe, but won't replace the Miuras for bouldering...

[Fultonius]

5.10 NIAD £74 at go-outdoors:
https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/16136336/adidas-five-ten-men-s-niad-vcs-climbing-shoe-16136336

UK 8,9,10,11,12

[Eddies]

Cheap Velcro Dragon's in most sizes:

https://www.exxpozed.co.uk/adidas-five-ten-dragon-vcs-m#!?variant=1042663

[Johnny Brown]

M&M still have plenty of stock at £40.

https://www.mandmdirect.com/01/details/AD30020/adidas-Mens-Five-Ten-Dragon-Climbing-Shoes-Active-Orange-Core-Black-Grey-One

[remus]

Pair of brand new size 6 blancos for £40 https://www.vinted.co.uk/women/shoes/sports-shoes/other-sports-shoes/2622477172-five-ten-anasazi-rock-climbing-shoes-uk-6

[Droyd]

Much appreciated Remus, I snapped these up as I was a 6 in the old ones! 

[sherlock]

FS. Boreal Satori UK 8.
Bought cheap online but can hardly get them on, so sized small.Size 8 on box but no size inside actual shoe. Worn 2/3 times inside and never outside.
Can email pics.
£50 posted.

[Wil]

La Sportiva Katakis on offer at Outside at the moment: https://www.outside.co.uk/la-sportiva-kataki-climbing-shoe.html

[Duma]

Anyone used these and can review? I was considering a pair but not tried on yet. Looking for something a little stiff but still a bit aggressive for sport - low 7s to low 8s.
Have medium to narrow feet.
I wear Futuras indoors and bouldering.
Velcro Muiras trad and easier sport
Currently Tenaya Lati (the red ones) for harder sport.
I don't generally get on with Scarpa (too wide) or unparallel (heel)

[moose]

I've got a pair of Katakis - in the same size as my usual Miura VS.  They feel a little less aggressive and flatter than Miuras but a touch stiffer (like the offspring of a Miura and an Anasazi).  They are now really comfortable while still feeling precise, but when I first got them, their stiffness at the back aggravated my achilles.  The heel is also that weird bulbous "S Heel" (same as Solutions), which I personally find insensitive, but that's never really been an issue when sport climbing.

[Duma]

Cheers Moose, I'm not a fan of the solution heel either but for this use I could live with it. More concerned that they feel less aggressive than the Muiras. Thought it might be worth a pint at such a bargain price but not sure now. Hmmm

[Duncan campbell]

Haven’t had a pair of Kataki’s but use Otakis for all my route climbing. (Up to 8a+ sport and E6 trad) also always get them resoled, in edge the first time use them for trad/sport warmups then second and 3rd times in grip and have climbed 7B+ in them. If they didn’t get too soft for hard trad and sport I’d keep getti mg edge put on them.


Been ages since I owned a pair of Miura VS but have never looked back. Not sure how the Katakis differ beyond being lace ups. I also bought some Katana’s last year and am back on to the Otakis, despite having a brand new pair of Katanas still in my cupboard. Undecided on whether I would use them on something specific or not…

Not sure if that was helpful, I can’t remember how aggressive the miura vs were but I like how my Otakis can stand on really small edges but can deal with smeary edges and smears too. They seem to be a bit of a punter shoe but I think they are really good for hard climbing (in the keen amateur sense)

[shark]

Katakis are my default shoe unless there is a need for something specialist. I’ve got narrow feet too. Can wear them all day long. They seem to have found a sweet spot between being supportive and sensitive and resole really well at Llanberis Resoles. They are being discontinued so delighted to bag a couple of pairs at this price.

[Duncan campbell]

What is it with you and shoes that get discontinued Shark?!?!

Please don’t start buying Otakis I don’t want to have to find a new shoe! 

[MischaHY]

Anyone used these and can review? I was considering a pair but not tried on yet. Looking for something a little stiff but still a bit aggressive for sport - low 7s to low 8s.
Have medium to narrow feet.
I wear Futuras indoors and bouldering.
Velcro Muiras trad and easier sport
Currently Tenaya Lati (the red ones) for harder sport.
I don't generally get on with Scarpa (too wide) or unparallel (heel)

Katakis are based on the Skwama last so relatively wide at the front with a narrower heel. The heel is not the same as the Solution heel but rather that of the Skwama; slightly softer and more conforming. It tends to work well for people with flat/low volume heels. They're better on an edge than Skwamas and are effectively a combination of the Katana lace and Skwama. In terms of performance you can expect them to be good on different things depending on how you size them - around two sizes down will give a more conforming shoe which will perfom well on sandstone/grit or thin cracks/multis, 2.5 sizes down will be about right for edging on lime/granite/edgy trad. It's a good shoe.

In general when looking at Scarpa it's a misnomer to assume they're all wide. It's true Instincts and their ilk are wide, but options like Vapor Lace and Drago LV would be good choices for a narrow fit. You can view their shoe fit sizing easily here.

Hope this helps 

[Duma]

Katakis are based on the Skwama last so relatively wide at the front with a narrower heel.

Seems weird to name and describe a shoe as a combo of Katana and Otaki, if its based on the last of the Skwamas!

That Scarpa chart is really nice, is there anything similar for Sportiva floating around somewhere? specifically it'd be really handy to have them grouped by last.

In general when looking at Scarpa it's a misnomer to assume they're all wide. It's true Instincts and their ilk are wide, but options like Vapor Lace and Drago LV would be good choices for a narrow fit. You can view their shoe fit sizing easily here.

Good chart, cheers! the Dragos are miles too soft to be of interest, and the vapor lace just feel very flat when I've tried them. From that chart something like the Boostics should be good, but I've tried them on and didn't like the fit, also felt wide tbh. I've thought before the old magos might have been the shoe, anyone know how the new ones differ?

[MischaHY]

Katakis are based on the Skwama last so relatively wide at the front with a narrower heel.

Seems weird to name and describe a shoe as a combo of Katana and Otaki, if its based on the last of the Skwamas!

It's how the LaSpo rep described them when they were introduced and I'd agree but they're definitely a bit narrower than Skwamas, likely due to shaping and stiffness.

That Scarpa chart is really nice, is there anything similar for Sportiva floating around somewhere? specifically it'd be really handy to have them grouped by last.

It's here.

I've thought before the old magos might have been the shoe, anyone know how the new ones differ?

They're definitely a bit narrower. Sounds more like you have a medium volume foot though considering you're doing well with Miura VS so be cautious with going too narrow.

[Duma]

Cheers! Bit suspicious of the Miura VS's place on that chart though, I'll take some convincing its wider than the Skwama or Otaki

[MischaHY]

Cheers! Bit suspicious of the Miura VS's place on that chart though, I'll take some convincing its wider than the Skwama or Otaki

VS is very wide, it's the classic go-to for a stiff edging shoe that might work for people with hallux. It depends on the specific shape and sensitivity of the hallux because of the way the shoe exerts pressure though. Skwama might 'feel' wider because it's softer which means it gives more when the foot presses against it.

[spidermonkey09]

I have both Skwama and Ladies Miura VS in the same size and like Duma would take some convincing that the VS' are wider. The Skwama's are like boats compared to the VS. Not just on feel but on visuals too out of the box.

More broadly Duma your feet sound quite similar to mine. Might be worth trying a pair of the womens Miura VS' on;  I wore the mens lace Miuras for years, then the womens lace Miuras, and have now finally settled on the velcro womens Miuras. As long as they make them I won't need to try another shoe. I tried Kataki's a few years ago and found them too wide for me.

[Duma]

Thanks for all the comments, bit of a moot point as outside have now sold out of size 40 (I blame shark), but am now planning a visit to bananafingers to try out a bunch of the suggestions from here. SM06, have you tried the men's Muira VS? Apart from volume and/or width, often the women's models aren't as stiff (fair enough given average weights) which would put me off. My GF wears women's Muira VSs, but she's size 4 so not much use to me!

[shark]

No guilty. 41 for me.

[spidermonkey09]

I never have; the women's lace version were such a revelation for me that I climbed in them for a few years and only moved to the VS version when I realised that unlike the laces, they had the P3 power platform which would keep them stiffer for longer. I also avoided velcro shoes for years out of a (possibly misguided) belief that my narrow feet were better suited to lace up shoes (previously I'd had blancos).

The women's shoes do have 3.5mm rubber rather than 4mm rubber which might mean less stiff. It doesn't seem any different to men's miuras to me, but I am pretty light at 60kg. I think the lower volume was the key for me, I only really realised how precise heel hooks could be when I started wearing the womens version! (here endeth the love letter!)

[colin8ll]

Is this too good to be true? 80% off La Sportiva's at https://dusktrend.shop/ . Loads of models and loads of sizes. Solutions for £21, TC Pros for £23 etc. + £8 postage!!

[remus]

Is this too good to be true? 80% off La Sportiva's at https://dusktrend.shop/ . Loads of models and loads of sizes. Solutions for £21, TC Pros for £23 etc. + £8 postage!!

Looks like a scam to me:

• Appears to be a dodgy clone of la sportiva's real site
• Handful of very fake sounding reviews
• Prices seem way to good