[duncan]

Thanks everyone. I'll stick with my extensive supply of softened-up Blancos (not far from the VCRs in feel).

[Reprobate_Rob]

So what's the closest thing to an Anasazi that Unparallel do? The UP Rise VCS?
Anyone able to say how they compare?

[Mr_Cus]

Just spotted m and m direct have cheap dragon Velcro’s back in stock in loads of sizes and Anasazi and Anasazi pro.

Such a good price!

[tomtom]

So what's the closest thing to an Anasazi that Unparallel do? The UP Rise VCS?
Anyone able to say how they compare?

I have a pair of these. They are superb. The fit is similar (narrow - with a fairly flat sole) and I think they are a little stiffer (though I’ve not had them long enough and I remember the old Velcro’s used to take an age to soften.

However their heel is excellent (the old one was shite) and the build quality is just top notch. To use a 1980’s car building metaphor, the new ones feel like a BMW and the old ones felt like they were knocked together on a Friday afternoon at a Leyland factory.

I like them a lot.

[Reprobate_Rob]

Thanks TT, sounds good. Once I get over the idea of paying full price for a pair of climbing shoes I'll probably plump for a pair of these.
Did you go for the same size as the USA made anasazi?

[tomtom]

Thanks TT, sounds good. Once I get over the idea of paying full price for a pair of climbing shoes I'll probably plump for a pair of these.
Did you go for the same size as the USA made anasazi?

I think so… just checked and I got some 7.5’s. I’m 9 on street shoes and a 41.5 in scarpa instinct(s) which is 7.5 too I think.

They are possibly half a size too big - but unlike the original US anasazis don’t bag out (well haven’t so far) so they’re fine at the moment.

Strangely at the moment they are my go to edging shoe - and if I need an especially good heel. They have the harder unparallel rubber and it’s barely worn…

They’re one of those I’d recommend trying first if you can etc…

The heel band is quite broad (2.5 cm or so) and quite stiff - but works really well.

[cheque]

I agree with TomTom- UPs are not only a closer equivalent for the old US-made Anasazis (the rubber is the same and the shape of the toes is the same) than current 5.10s, they’re actually better. I have the blue lace-ups, grey velcros and yellow moccs now.

Sizing-wise Unparallels are about a 1/4 of a UK size bigger- if you get the same size you were in US-made Anasazis they’ll be slightly bigger, if you get the size below they’ll be slightly smaller.

The big difference is that while the 5.10s relied only on the combination of sole hardness and heel tension to get their stiffness, the UPs have a stiffening element to the top of the shoes (rubber on the velcros and moccs, a lacing setup with more layers of fabric on the lace-ups) which means that the heels are more comfortable and better fitting. It also means that as well as feeling a bit stiffer to begin with, the softening-up process is a longer and more gradual affair than the overnight “floomf” of the classic Anasazis. The rands also seem to be glued on with sterner stuff which adds to this stiffness retention.

This is most apparent on the Up-Moccs which are absolutely fucking brilliant and could be a good choice for people who liked the Anasazi velcros because they went soft or those who don’t like the higher cut of the Velcro UPs. I gave up on the Five Ten moccs as they went unusably soft way before the rubber wore out but the UP equivalent, while still not what you’d call edging machines, don’t.

[Andy F]

I'm thinking about getting a pair of the 5.10 velcro's to use as a wall shoe (hence saving my quality Scarpa's for the crag). I'm an EU 38.5/39 in Scarpa, what size 5.10 would I need?

[cheque]

My saved eBay search came up with these.

Not something I need but could be a good deal for someone. I think Vims are remakes of the old Five Ten V10s?

[cowboyhat]

yes I've tried some recently, they're pretty much exactly the old V10 and I was the same size as before as well.

For reference I'm also the same size in Dragons / Sirius and Team / Regulus if thats what they're called. Regulas might be the Hi-Angle? no matter, Im the same size in all of them so you might be too.

[tim palmer]

https://rockrun.com/collections/deal/products/scarpa-furia

70 quid for furias

[Mike Tyson]

https://www.blacks.co.uk/15909614/adidas-five-ten-dragon-climbing-shoes-15909614

[gardinrm]

Just managed to get solutions (LV) for £80 including shipping from here:
https://www.alpinstore.com/en/categ/133-climbing-shoes

The price shot up as soon as I bought them, but there are lots of good deals if you browse through.

[mrjonathanr]

A few places doing the old style chimeras at big discounts. Eg £65 https://rockrun.com/collections/climbing-shoes/products/scarpa-chimera-2020?variant=31463074504

[Evil]

Quite a few unparallel models on sale at Dark Ventures (mostly old versions) - https://darkventures.co.uk/discount--sale-16-c.asp

[andy_e]

Anyone know what the heel is like on the Vim compared to the old Dragon etc.? I never had V10s to compare it to.

[remus]

Anyone know what the heel is like on the Vim compared to the old Dragon etc.? I never had V10s to compare it to.

Not sure how it compares to the old dragon as I never got on with them, but it's a decent heel for a slipper (i.e. don't expect much, can get away with it in a pinch.).

[cowboyhat]

Anyone know what the heel is like on the Vim compared to the old Dragon etc.? I never had V10s to compare it to.

Kind of the same, I always thought they are the same last or something, however they make shoes.

With the V10s though on a few occasions I had to use either a velcro/ dragon/ anything that locked because with the elastic shoes, the heel will just come off.

[andy_e]

Thanks both, good to know, I'll swerve them because heel fitting is always an issue for me. Shame because they look great otherwise!

[cowboyhat]

Well the front end is amazing, so if you aren't heel hooking it doesn't matter.

[andy_e]

I'm always heel hooking...

[SA Chris]

Andy's got more hooks than a Motown studio session.

[philo]

£50 Pink anasazi anyone?

https://www.tkmaxx.com/uk/en/men/shoes/mens-trainers/rose-pink-anasazi-laced-sport-shoes/p/27560446?utm_source=RakutenMarketing&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=2447268:HOTUKDEALS&utm_content=10&utm_term=UKNetwork&ranMID=43244&ranEAID=aBCSbjOIq8Q&ranSiteID=aBCSbjOIq8Q-AhyoKGKDB1VGXCvH6etNgA

[sdm]

Anasazis too

https://www.tkmaxx.com/uk/en/men/shoes/mens-trainers/black+brown-climbing-shoes/p/27560447

[dunnyg]

Awesome. Thanks!