[sdm]

Worth noting in case anyone has never tried them on that the Furia was much narrower in the toe box than an Instinct VS. The length is the same but the last and the fit are not.

Instinct VS fits me perfectly. I can just about tolerate the pain of wearing the same size Furia long enough to complete a problem because of how much they crush my toes in to each other. If you have narrower feet, sticking to the same size should do you fine.

Also, the heel is OK but is not Instinct VS levels of good. I've never found a heelhook where I preferred the heel on the Furia over the VS. Same for toe hooking

I found a similar thing with Dragos, and Chimeras, compared to Instincts. Instincts fit my feet perfectly and the other two are too narrow and no matter how much I downsize the heels have so much bag. Which sucks as I'd love a good pair of soft shoes.

VS-R?

The Instinct VS, VS-R and laceup are the only shoes that share the VS last. All of the others are narrower in the toe.

Instinct slipper is a unique last which is quite a bit narrower than the rest of the Instinct range.

The original Furia, Furia S, Furia Air, Drago, Chimera, Boostic and Booster  are all the same FZ last (although they stretch differently etc).

Mago has its own last which is quite narrow but I can make them fit my very wide feet due to the laces.

Stix is another unique last which is wider than some of them but very asymmetric. They fit me better than the instinct slipper but nowhere sells them anymore.

[tomtom]

Both actually - but the Newer one with the blue bit in the heel is closest to the Velcro instinct imho. The heel isn’t amazing but alright...

Btw - for those who love the VS - try the instinct lace up. Very similar but lighter and for me even better fitting. Absolutely love them.

For an even softer shoe try the booster. Bit narrower than the instinct but very little support. I was surprised - as they look like overhanging small edge weapons, but are actually really good on smeary stuff.

[remus]

For an even softer shoe try the booster. Bit narrower than the instinct but very little support. I was surprised - as they look like overhanging small edge weapons, but are actually really good on smeary stuff.

I've got a lot of time for the Boosters on smeary stuff too. Very floppy midsole so you can get a lot of rubber on the rock.

Will be interesting to try out the new Boostics, though the £150 price tag is a bit 

[tim palmer]

https://www.mandmdirect.com/01/details/AD30020/adidas-Mens-Five-Ten-Dragon-Climbing-Shoes-Active-Orange-Core-Black-Grey-One?search=redirect|Dragon

Dragons for £50

[shark]

https://www.mandmdirect.com/01/details/AD30020/adidas-Mens-Five-Ten-Dragon-Climbing-Shoes-Active-Orange-Core-Black-Grey-One?search=redirect|Dragon

Dragons for £50

Also selling Womens LV Pros for same price with sizing up to 10.5

www.mandmdirect.com/01/details/AD30118/adidas-Womens-Five-Ten-Anasazi-Lv-Pro-Climbing-Shoes-Easy-Coral-Core-Black-Red

[kelvin]

Cheers for that link Simon, worth a shout in the ladies, as the mens are a bit baggy on me in street size

[crzylgs]

Hi all - any advice on how the sizing of either the Womens Five Ten Anasazi Lv Pro or Mens Five Ten Dragon - both mentioned above fit. I've never had the opportunity to try on any Five Ten/Adidas shoes.

For reference I tend on the slim side of foot, with not much broadening towards toes. My current shoes are La Sportiva Solutions (not the brand new softer heel, the previous moulded solid heel version) in 39.5 - these are right on the edge in terms of being very tight (plastic bag trick to get the shoe on due to very narrow elasticated opening etc) but at the same time a really good fit. Also I own a pair of Scarpa Womens Lace Up Vapour (the lace up is essential, usually Scarpa seem a little wide but I can really crank the laces!) size 41. These are way less technical but they work well for warm ups, endurance stuff, anything not absolute limit bouldering.

Thanks!

[Anti]

Hi all - any advice on how the sizing of either the Womens Five Ten Anasazi Lv Pro or Mens Five Ten Dragon - both mentioned above fit. I've never had the opportunity to try on any Five Ten/Adidas shoes.

For reference I tend on the slim side of foot, with not much broadening towards toes. My current shoes are La Sportiva Solutions (not the brand new softer heel, the previous moulded solid heel version) in 39.5 - these are right on the edge in terms of being very tight (plastic bag trick to get the shoe on due to very narrow elasticated opening etc) but at the same time a really good fit. Also I own a pair of Scarpa Womens Lace Up Vapour (the lace up is essential, usually Scarpa seem a little wide but I can really crank the laces!) size 41. These are way less technical but they work well for warm ups, endurance stuff, anything not absolute limit bouldering.

Thanks!

Your feet may vary, but I own Solutions and Scarpa Instinct (VSW and VSR) and have had Vapour in the past. All fit me well, I love the heel fit on them all. I hated Anasazi (the old, brown ones) for fit on the heel. Even with my toes smushed up to the front it felt like a pair of crocs at the back.

[shark]

There is a comparative sizing guide here: https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flash-rock-run-blog/rock-climbing-shoe-sizing-guide

Couldn’t resist getting both the Dragons and LV Pros at this price. I got size 9 in both (street shoe size 10) and they arrived this morning.

Five Tens are slim fit anyway so should suit you. I’ve really narrow feet.

The LV were a brilliant all comfortable round snug fit but no downturned toe. Dragons were crippling but I find that with most aggressively downturned shoes - probably I’m flat footed.

[crzylgs]

Thanks both for the replies. That comparative sizing guide is very useful!

[IanP]

Not as cheap as above but a few decent deals:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/climbing_clearance/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

In particular I've just taken a delivery of a pair of no longer available Miura xx which are great if you fit the Miura but want something that retains its stiffness and downturn (a few larger and smaller sizes left now). 

[shark]

What’s the score with ordering from discounters in Europe now? Do you have to somehow pay VAT and duty?

[Catcheemonkey]

If the total order (including delivery) is less than £135 there’s no VAT or duty. If it’s over you’ll have to pay these on top of the sales price.

[remus]

If the total order (including delivery) is less than £135 there’s no VAT or duty. If it’s over you’ll have to pay these on top of the sales price.

To clarify, you do actually pay VAT on stuff under £135 but in theory the shop you purchased should have charged you VAT at the checkout (and then paid the VAT on to the uk government). I imagine it's a bit of pot luck whether this actually happens properly at the moment, especially if you're using smaller retailers. Likewise customs duties seem a bit of pot luck as well, sometimes things sail through with no issues and other times you'll get stung.

If you fancy a little light bed time reading https://www.gov.uk/goods-sent-from-abroad/tax-and-duty

[Catcheemonkey]

Yep, should have said ‘import VAT and duty’ which will be additional charges to those buying goods over the £135 threshold, that they may not be expecting.

[shark]

Thanks both

[tim palmer]

Re sizing of dragon velcro I got the same size as my hi angles and they are pretty similar but slightly narrower.  I have wide ish feet so they were pretty uncomfortable at first but they have bagged out ok in a session

[sxrxg]

https://www.mandmdirect.com/01/details/AD30879/adidas-Mens-Five-Ten-Anasazi-Pro-Climbing-Shoes-Spice-Orange-Core-Black-Footwear-White

Anasazi Pro now on the website that had the Dragons for £50

https://www.mandmdirect.com/01/details/AD30877/adidas-Mens-Five-Ten-Anasazi-Hook-And-Loop-Climbing-Shoes-Raw-Desert-Core-Black-Red

Also got the regular Anasazi Velcro for £45

[sheavi]

https://www.mandmdirect.com/01/details/AD30879/adidas-Mens-Five-Ten-Anasazi-Pro-Climbing-Shoes-Spice-Orange-Core-Black-Footwear-White

Anasazi Pro now on the website that had the Dragons for £50

https://www.mandmdirect.com/01/details/AD30877/adidas-Mens-Five-Ten-Anasazi-Hook-And-Loop-Climbing-Shoes-Raw-Desert-Core-Black-Red

Also got the regular Anasazi Velcro for £45

Thanks

[mr chaz]

Steal!

[duncan]

I’m a big fan of the five ten Anasazi Velcro of ten years ago. I hear mixed reports about this adidas version (the last pre NAID?). How does it differ in fit and rubber?

[Johnny Brown]

Ditto. All I know is they were not well received. The pros were extremely stiff; the NIADs are very soft. My guess is they were closer to the NIADs.

[shark]

I’ve heard that the newer Anasazi Velcro’s are a bad fit round the toes - allegedly a build error at the factory

[Mr_Cus]

I’ve heard that the newer Anasazi Velcro’s are a bad fit round the toes - allegedly a build error at the factory

I tried some at the weekend. Width and general fit seemed OK but there was massive amounts of excess material over the top of my toes. I have almost always worn anasazis of some description but these were rubbish unfortunately.

[Duncan Disorderly]

I’ve heard that the newer Anasazi Velcro’s are a bad fit round the toes - allegedly a build error at the factory

Heard this too... However I had a pair last year and they were fine fit-wise (I did have to try 2 pairs of the same size to get a good fit tho...)... The big issue I had was with the build quality, they pretty much fell apart in 3 months... Conversely, I bought a secondhand USA pair off Fleabay over 6 months ago and apart from the stench they're still in great nick!