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[Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
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[Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
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Doylo
forum hero
Posts: 6694
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[Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 07, 2010, 05:04:09 pm
Did a fun new training link down LPT today. Melancopout starts up Melancholie to the undercuts, then step right into Bad Boy and finish up that. Probably soft 8a+ (quite a useful grade down there, there isn't many).
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shark
Administrator
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Posts: 8728
Karma: +628/-17
insect overlord #1
#1 Re: [Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 07, 2010, 05:52:13 pm
Nice one. I always assumed the start was the crux.
Malc barbecued it 15 years ago first go whilst I was trying BBB.
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Doylo
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#2 Re: [Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 07, 2010, 05:56:05 pm
Yeh i heard Malc got very close to the flash of Melancholie (so did Steve)! The start to the UC's are the hardest moves but the bit after the undercuts before BB is the redpoint crux on Melancholie.
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JohnM
junky
Posts: 911
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#3 Re: [Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 07, 2010, 06:13:04 pm
Has any one linked The Walking Mussel into Over the Moon Direct yet? I am going to have to do this by default as I cannot in anyway climb that crack!
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Doylo
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#4 Re: [Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 07, 2010, 06:15:44 pm
No one has yet. Mule mentioned taking that exit too but i think he's got to grips with the crack now. I've only tried that crack once. Most people say its ok when you figure it out.
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JohnM
junky
Posts: 911
Karma: +71/-0
#5 Re: [Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 07, 2010, 06:24:59 pm
I think I have tried everything but I just can't get established on it and it eats chunks out of my finger! If I could get through the start of TWM then the direct finish would be a safer bet as you can almost fully recover at the rest.
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Doylo
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#6 Re: [Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 07, 2010, 06:27:19 pm
LPT is entering the link up age!
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JohnM
junky
Posts: 911
Karma: +71/-0
#7 Re: [Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 07, 2010, 06:36:47 pm
Or just weak punters avoiding the traditional cruxes in my case! Meloncholie into Pas de Deux needs to go down soon though!
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Doylo
forum hero
Posts: 6694
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#8 Re: [Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 07, 2010, 06:53:07 pm
Will be good and hard that one!
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nodder
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#9 Re: [Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 10, 2010, 08:04:37 pm
its the gaps that make the routes
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Doylo
forum hero
Posts: 6694
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#10 Re: [Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 17, 2010, 09:07:22 pm
Did the obvious finish into Mussel Beach from Melancopout today. Very crimpy start then a good rest then burly finish, totally ace climbing. Melon Beach 8a+ (top end)
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nodder
obsessive maniac
Posts: 336
Karma: +38/-1
#11 Re: [Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 17, 2010, 09:13:16 pm
how about reversing the water margin so you can have a water melon?
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Doylo
forum hero
Posts: 6694
Karma: +442/-7
#12 Re: [Melancopout][LPT][8a+]
May 17, 2010, 09:22:14 pm
sounds a bit pumpy
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