[nai]

Off to font in a few hours so I'll begin:

STG - some nice circuits, RnR thereafter
MTG - do routes over summer, stay fit, improve finger strength
LTG  - ticklist of 7C/+ next winter

M - couple of hours at Gardoms trying Marks Roof, conditions were good but mine wasn't, really stuggled to get nowhere
T - ding ding, seconds out, round three.  Did Marks Roof eventually, a narrow points victory.
W - nowt
T - quick session, pullups, 4x3 staggered pullups per leading arm and lots of pressups.
F - pack the car and drive to Hull for the overnight ferry
S - drive zeebrugge to Font, hopefully have an hour or two somewhere
Su - forecast isn't positive but all being well a nice blue/red circuit somewhere quiet to break us in gently. 

A good prep week I think, still searching for the magic formula that helps me peak at the right time.  All will be revealed next week.

[tomtom]

STG 7B+

Another lame week. Nothing.
Had cold/flu all week and been away at conference until Thurs. Felt weak just walking around... Decided to take Fri, Sat & Sun off to fully recuperate.

Next week life starts again 


(Mods/IO's I started another 'this week' before seeing Nai's post  any chance you could wipe the other mistake topic?)

[roddersm]

STG Goals:

Trad:
Peak: Flying Buttress Direct HVS, L'horla E1, Qietus E2
Wales: Cemetry Gates E1, Left wall E2, Comes the Dervish E3
Ireland: Pitchfork Wit E1, Birdie, sightseer both E2, Pump up the valium, lighweight lewis denvers both E3 (All Muckross).
Rail Road E1, Jolly Roger E3, GBH E3 (Fairhead), Other Fish E4 6b (Culdaff, Headpoint, dont ask), Gallows pole E2, Lucy E2, Siren E3 (Burren)
Boulder Chubbs Patterson 7a(+?) Fairhead , Carbide 7a Fairhead
sport onsight 7a (minimum) . Onsight debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ in verdon.

LTG's:
Trad:
Profit of Doom E4,Right Wall E5, London Wall E5, Rusty Halo E4, Wall of Fossils E4, Strapodictimy E5, Flesh E5, Operation mindcrime E5, Wall of Pray E5, Gaia E8 (Headpoint - some chance but I'll put it down)
Sport: Redpoint 8a, Onsight 7b+. Je suis un legend 7a+ Verdon. Mirage 7c+ Ceuse.
Boulder: 7b+, Midnight lightning. Biceps mou, Homeward bound
Big Wall: Climb the Nose on El Cap.

Mon  Bouldering at Fairhead 4 Hrs. Warmed up on a 5c and 6c and did Chubbs Peterson 7a/7a+ again. would have done it twice but fell off the easy top out when I surprisingly got to the finishing holds 1st go. Amazing it took ages to get this now I feel like I could throw laps on it. Tried Carbide 7a and got really close numerous time but failed to do the scary top out again.
Tue   Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering.
Wed  Rest.
Thur  Climbing wall session 1.5 hours bouldering.
Fri     Rest.
Sat   Bouldering at Fairhead 5hrs. Warmed up on a 5c and 6c. After numerous attempts finally did Carbide 7a. Was fairly easy in the end just lacked the balls for the top out before. Good day.
Sun   Running 48 min.

Pretty good week. Have another finger injury coming on and mild tendonitis in my elbow but finally managed to tick Carbide, one off the best problems at the head and one of the best problems I've seen anywhere. Thanks to anyone whos spotted me over the winter. After thinking my season would be wrecked due to a finger injury I've completed both my seasons bouldering goals over the last 2 weeks . Both now feel surprisingly easy and I feel like I could definitely climb something harder, but I'm going to take a break from bouldering now to start doing routes and also hopefully let a few off my injuries clear up. Also 1st run today since injuring my achilles, managed to complete my run ok but heel is a bit sore now but at least I'm back running .       

[chris05]

M: 8 miles offroad run
T: work
W: work
T: 4 mile run
F: 3 mile run
S: work
S: bouldering at cratcliffe, core work & theraband

Been super busy at work this week, so quite pleased even to get a few runs in. A2 is still feeling delicate so probably best that I feel too busy for beastmaker training. Didn't make it up anything new today but felt strong on problems that felt hard last year so training must be paying off. Busy until the end of May but looking forward to a more relaxing summer (lots of climbing hopefully).

[chillax]

STG: Fairhead E3
MTG: Find something new at the Head, project arete at Murlough, projects in Wicklow and Dublin
LTG: E7

Mon: Did my wee route on Cruit
Tues: Sleep
Wed: Drink and make a  of myself
Thurs: Sleep
Fri: Work
Sat: Bouldering at Murlough with Rodders. Did Carbide, which was nice. Got spanked by the project, which was less nice. Some lads from Dublin crashed in my place on the way to climbing at the Head on Sun. I showboat doing one armers 
Sun: Work

It would appear that drinking and trying it on with eligible young ladies is beneficial to my climbing. I'm keen to expand on this new training regime   

[nik at work]

M - Brief bouldering session in Silverdale, forgot my boots, chalk, mat etc. Not great
T - Sport redpointing, good links but no tick
W - Not sure, perhaps nothing?
T - Nothing
F - Sport redpointing, different venue, different project, similar result.
S - Gardening
S - Lancs quarry bouldering briefly

Still waiting for the breakthrough sport success, feel like progress is being made though. Broccoli is growing well.

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread nai

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.3-4

M. AM Tor 2 goes on Toilet before sun got on it. Went to Cowdale and had a go at the much-better-than-it looks Laughing in the Rain but couldnt do the crux start. Had a go at flashing MMM but too tired.
T. Earl AM Yoga Lunch Fingery board endurance session. Late afternoon Weights
W.
T. Eve Tor. Struggled on a very greasy Sardine to warm up. 2 goes on Toilet. My partner (Juan V) did a heroic successful  first RP summit push.
F.
S. AM Tor Found it hard to warm up. Good conditions 2 disappointing goes on Toilet. Did a few assisted one arms on fingerboard when got back.  PM/Eve Drove to Swanage. Camped.
S. Decamped. 90th birthday bash. Drove back from Swanage

Good weight this week. Getting a bit fed up. 10 days on the Toilet ! Its a bit bouldery for me but feel like I should have it in the bag by now. Really nothing to show for the year so far     Hopefully 4 day trip to Spain from Thurs will put a smile back on my face (volcanic ash permitting)

[petejh]

Goal: VIII, 8a, 8A, E8 in 2010.
May Goals: Foulish Ghoulish 7b+, Plaqued by Fools 7b+, Quasar, Stroll On, Foil E3.
At: IX, 7a+, 7B, E3.

m. nowt
t. indi wall. good warm up/movement, 5x4 on v3,v3,v3,v2. pumped out on 6th set.
w. nowt.
t. nowt
f. maybe the least productive day's climbing I've ever had. Putting draws in Foulish Ghoulish I ripped open the 'healing' cut on my finger. Went home bloodied and dejected.
s. Cleaned (superb) new route and started bolting it until drill broke. Ughh. Listened to a lot of smack talk and contributed a lot of smack talk at a smack-talking get together.
s. nowt.

Bad week, now need to take 4 or 5 days off for finger to heal. nuff said.

[Three Nine]

STG: Beginner's Wall, strong for Europe, find a new short term goal
MTG: Onsight 7cs and redpoint 8as in all different styles in Europe
LTG: Tuppence in Spring 2011

M Long Tor Quarry, got spanked climbing interesting milage, felt tired and a bit weak
T rest
W power 30 deg board 1. 5 hours, emphasizing big dynamic moves
T power 40 deg board 2.5 hours, big moves again
F cardio 30 min run
S Torbryan, rainy and damp, did Threadbare LH, dismayed by the proper version, some new (for me) link ups
S Anstey's, primo conditions, iced Just Revenge, got educated on the Lynch and onsighted a nice slab

Ok week, think im climbing out of my dip. Would like to try something hard soon or maybe do some bouldering?

[lagerstarfish]

STG - climb on grit

Wed - climb on grit until my skin ran out
Sun - climb on grit until my skin ran out

[iain]

STG: State of Play, Total Seizure, going to leave Hall of Mirrors for the moment and try other 7c/+ I come across
MTG: Onsight 7b regularly
LTG: Freaky Ralph, Infinite Gravity

Mon: Got on State of Play, made good and surprising progress, had RP and fell 3 moves from easier ground. Should go next time (unless I've now jinxed it). Satisfied slack__line induced fish and chip fetish on way home
Tues: Knackered from Monday
Wed: Fingerboard then ache inducing number of miles walking round London canvassing/leaflet dropping for friend standing for Lib/Dems in local council elections
Thurs: First leaflet through door at 530am, uggh, no (good) coffee till almost 11. Headed home late in the day v.tired. Canvassing is knackering
Fri: Fingerboard, nailbiting wait for results, friend bucks bad Lib/Dems trend and gets elected YYFY
Sat: Dancing Ledge, always avoided this place because of perceived polish and busyness, was good although occasional rain and seepage meant some better lines were out. Good onsighting day
Sun: Blacknor North, finger numbing cold. Didn't bother getting on Freaky Ralph, had good onsighting/social day instead

Onsighting is going well, head in very good shape his week. 7a/+ feeling very controlled and barring route reading errors now confident I won't fall off. Will target 7a+ mileage over next wee while.


@threenine and thesiger, congrats on project ticks

[Charles]

Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Feeling rubbish from bank holiday weekend frivolities. Went to the Tor. Failed on Powerhumps again.
Wednesday - Nothing.
Thursday - Nothing.
Friday - Nothing.
Saturday - Horseshoe. Easy routes.
Sunday - Horseshoe. Easy routes.

Very disprited after 6th session of failure on Powerhumps. However, two good days at Horseshoe and lots of talking about Mallorca got the psyche back up and refocussed on onsight sport climbing.

Turns out Simon was right - switching to fun climbing can do the trick! Clever man that one...

[JamesD]

Crappy week, girlfriend broke her ankle on the previous Saturday, so been looking after her, dropping her off to work and anywhere else she needs to go, been so tired I just about managed a couple of days of training.

So...shamefully:

Monday: Nada

Tuesday: See above

Wednesday: See Monday

Thursday: Sweet FA

Friday: had a session at the wall, did a few V1 bits before my elbow started to concern me, went to do the sit start on a V2 and straight away I though no, not a good idea, take it easy.
So I went off to do some traversing, did a lap on a V0 circuit, then a lap on a V1 circuit, and managed half a lap on a V2 traverse
(new personal best for me).
I then went to the pull up bar and did some supinated pull ups, a couple of dead hangs at the half way position, and then a load of hanging leg raises touching my feet to the bar (Ok when I say a load I mean one set of 10 and then 4 half assed ones because I was feeling lazy!).
All in all a productive session considering my slack week for training.

Saturday:

I did a full rotator cuff workout, using those resistance bands with handles attached either side, all the movements for 2 sets of high reps each exercise. I then grabbed some dumbells, looped the bands around the dumbell handles (anchored them to the floor), and proceeded to do some plyometric dumbell curls, 3 sets of each of the following:
Reverse dumbell curls
Standard pronated dumbell curls (with no twist)
Hammer curls
During the final set of each, I pulled up as hard as I could against the band to go for the maximum pump, and then held it for a negative rep until failure.
It felt great, I think I am definitely going to make this a weekly thing in addition to my usual workout
I then went for a nice long swim, followed by the usual sauna and steam room afterwards of course 

Sunday: was mostly spent sorting out the stuff I don't get time to deal with the rest of the week!

[duncan]

"Good" shoulder still not good and 10 days to D-day.  Hey ho...

STG - Climb El Cap.
LTG - E5

M - Nothing
T - Shoulder stability exercises
W - Stumbled 10km
T - Stumbled 7km
T- Stumbled 7km
F - Stumbled 7km, shoulder stability exercise
S - Stumbled 6km
S - Shoulder stability exercises

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 61kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.

M: Routes at Malham. Sweltering at the cove so clock up some much needed sunshine hours. Warm up on a 6c on the right. Do Rose Coronary 3 times to put up draws/top rope then to strip it later on. Have a couple of goes on Something Stupid but struggle lots in the full sun (feel a lot less bad when I see Pete Robins fall off Wasted Youth in the same conditions!!!). Decide to lower my sights to get something done so do Puddle Jumper second go.
T: Bouldered at Castleberg. Although there is no recognised bouldering there I've worked out a nice little circuit on some steep ground. Feel completely wasted after an hour and a half of that.
W: Dead hangs and rock ring workout.
T: Routes at Gigg South. 6b/6c routes session in the evening.
F: Rest Day
S: Routes at Panorama Crag (nice little crag with short steep routes up to 7a). Decide to have an onsighting session rather than spending too  much time working stuff. After trying and feeling ridiculously close to 6c onsight all this year I finally get my first, YYFY!
S: 4hr walk in the lakes. Been a few weeks since I'd last been to the lakes so was nice to get out for a long walk on the fells.

Vague plan for the next few weeks:
- Really ramp up the onsighting attempts at 6c, hopefully now the stigma of that first 6c onsight is out of the way I can do few more of those.
- Work some 7a+'s, haven't done any yet this year and it would be good to do one to feel I've at least equalled last years high point. Am certainly overdue one now having done quite a few 7a's (recently getting them 2nd go) this year, not including doing Rose Coronary about 10 times.
- Try some different 7b's. Have only tried Something Stupid and although I know its considered a soft touch, I should probably try some others to see if a different route maybe suits me better. Any suggestions on Yorkshire Limestone would be welcome.

[Stubbs]

Goals: TBA

M-W: Non climbing holiday, chilled and did a bit of walking.
T: Felt ill, nowt.
F: Drive to Leeds after work, quick dep sesh, did a couple of problems on the Beastmaker to see where I was, didn't feel too bad.
S: Caley, mint conditions, standard warmups, repeated best link to date on ZY first try but failed to get a heel toe to work so no dice.  Repeated lots of problems up to 7C, spent about 7 hours climbing, totally battered.  Birthday drinks in the evening, consumed several week's worth of units...
S: Uuuuuurgh managed to drag myself out to the cliff for about 3, too hot for hard climbing but lovely to be out in the sun, managed to drag my severe hangover up Underhand and the Keel, so not too bad considering.

[Plattsy]

Boulder 7A+
Weight 13st 7lbs (0lbs)

M: Pressups and situps.
T: Went bouldering at Wharncliffe. Far too warm and greasy. Got spanked by everything.
W: Rabies jab and speedboating of Whitby. Turned out to be a decent all body work out tensing with the fear. Back started playing up too, again.
T: Short session at Rubicon. Bagged A Miller's Tale 3rd go and made some further progress on A Bigger Splash.
F: Nowt - sore back.
S: Nowt - sore back.
S: Made £87 at a car boot. Nowt - sore back.

[Richie Crouch]

Goals for 2010: In Hell, Clyde, Halfway House (Parisellas), NES part 1, Octopussy, Cote du Seshuan (Magic Wood)

Mon: Rest
Tues: P.E. Circuits on 45 board (4 laps of a 20 move problem, just about got around it each time really gassing) (5 min rest), Then Campus laddering of 1-3-5-7-9-10-reverse down then-1-3-5-7-9-10 alt arm lead (x4 laps, 5 mins rest). Core legs raises 3 sets of 15; Core pendulums 3 sets of 6; Pressups 3 sets of 15.
Weds: 4x4's on the 45 board (My lack of fitness climbing a problem 4 times(x4) with no rest is shocking!); Finish with core and pressups.
Thurs: Rest
Fri: Rest
Sat: Circuit of 20 problems then 1hr footless bouldering session on 45 board (10 x6 move problems, 3 min rests). Core and pressups to finish
Sun: Circuit of 15 problems then 1hr footless bouldering session on 45 board (15 x6 move problems, 3 min rests). Felt strong, which makes a change!

Plan for this week = hustle.

[andy popp]

Goals: Cheshire projects. 8a?

Mon: crunches
Tues: excellent evening out locally. Do great highball I've not done before. Clean fantastic project and do the first hard move.
Wed: repeaters, some sets weighted. Crunches and pushups.
Thurs: Crunches/pushups.
Fri: Swim 30x25. Sauna. Crunches/pushups.
Sat: nowt
Sun: try Tuesday's discovery again, do all the moves (just). Still feels like linking will be hard. Get some mileage in on familiar problems.

A pretty good week.

[Davo]

Monday: Rested

Tuesday: Cave, did We've a beaver and the sit start to Lip Service. Had a few goes on Pilgrim and managed to do the arch section which was good. So may keep trying this. Did Rock atrocity and did left wal low 3 times for training.

Wednesday: Fingerboarded (weighted 6kgs)

Thursday: Wall, circuits and laddering on campus board for power endurance.

Friday: Rested

Saturday: Malham, preferred option of Kilnsey was too cold. Warmed up on Rose Coronary (desperate), succeeded on The Maximum and finished on Appetite. Good day and actually enjoyed Malham!


Sunday: LPT. Great conditions. Tried Mussell Beach a few times after warming up in the cave. Felt a bit fitter and Mussell Beach may go soon.


Good week overall.

[cmerch]

Goals: 8a and V8
Mon: 4 mile run followed by 30 min. on campus board
Tues: dig holes in wife's rose garden!!
Wed: 5k run at 8min/mile pace
Thurs: climb at Foster Fall's, do 5 routes from easy 5 to 7b+
Fri: felt tired, just went for 5k run, no climbing
Sat: mow the grass, picnic, then work late
Sun: 30 min. on Moon fingerboard and Rock Rings
Felt a little knackered in the first part of the week, climbing went good, again the hard routes are just a matter of correct foot work

[andybfreeman]

STG - route fit for Spain, stay uninjured
MTG - Just revenge @ ansteys (might be tricky to find a belay now mark's done it (well done mate  ). do you have anything left taht you want to do there?) climb 7c in Spain, try and on sight some hardish routes that suit me, i.e. short pocketed routes! the plan is to try and onsight bistec du biceps as it sounds right up my street! if i miss the onsight i'll still be pleased to RP as it gets 7b+
LTG - 7B or harder in the forest next winter

M - as previously posted, wet day of peak bouldering, boing boy 7A between hail showers
T - indoor leading with work people. decent mileage session but nothing harder than 6c+
W -long mixed session at TCA. stated trying problems then managed to regain some discipline and hit the PE circuits for the last 90 minutes - need to focus on PE from now until Spain
Th - power session on Mark's board. wasn't feeling on it at all but steadily improved and felt ok int he end. looking forward to more pocket pulling this wed, hopefully Omar's bought more small pockets...
F - rested and eat  loads, knackered from late night on Thursday
Sa - afternoon at TCA first half on problems 2nd half on circuits
Su - mileage at cheddar, lots of 6s including longer stuff up to 25m and a token 7a (raw deal because it looked like and was lots of fun rather than being proper training!)

Weight back to high 67 low 68s after my deliberately fat Friday and a well fed weekend (up from mid 66s last week!). I decided on a bit of a binge after feeling like the tank was empty on Thursday last week and despite the weight gain I'm feeling good for all the food.

Over the next 6 weeks my plan is to be slightly restrictive with my diet but I’m now sure that I won’t be able to maintain the level of restriction I’d imposed over the past couple of weeks all the way until Spain. I think I just need to take a longer term and more balanced view and try and balance training and food

[Three Nine]

mate have everything left to do there, think boy george (down by Cocytus) will be my new STG, would like to try do it in a session, though Jon says it nails!

[Nibile]

mon - hours long argument with g/f. tired.
tue - rest.
wed - 2x10 sets max deadhangs, then 3x5 sets one armers on jug.
tue - stretching.
fri - 2x7 sets max deadhangs, stronger. 2x4 sets one armers on slopey edge. 3x2 sets one armers on jug. 6 problems on 45° and 60° walls, climbed openhanded and without locking off. interesting.
sat - rest. stretching.
sun - argument with housemate. angry, kicked her out.
almost every day wrist curls for the elbows.

comments: felt a bit better on the slopey edge on fri. managed a few powerful lock offs. did 5 one armers with help from right pinky at the end of session. right elbow felt a bit better, but still not recovered. 

[Monolith]

Shit Lore. Which housemate was kicked out?

Not even worth keeping track of days this week. Been glued to computer and drawing board all week. Manged 3 8 mile cross country runs but no climbing. Hopefully pull down next week now I've been shedding.

[andybfreeman]

mate have everything left to do there, think boy george (down by Cocytus) will be my new STG, would like to try do it in a session, though Jon says it nails!

sweet, you up for a day or both next weekend? we can plan on wed...

[Nibile]

Shit Lore. Which housemate was kicked out?

not sara, the one you met. just a friend of ours that had to come and stay with us because, unsurprisingly, she had been kicked out from another flat!!!

[Andy F]

Mon - Dinbren. Ticked a nice 7c fairly quickly, should have been 1st RP but took 3.
Tues - 25 mins on Beastmaker
Wed - volume bouldering up 7Aish
Thur/Fri/Sat - not much
Sun - LPT. Tried Mussel Beach, got most of the moves pretty sorted, need good tides to go back and try to redpoint.

[Fiend]

Goals:
Find some nice brightly coloured wifebeater vests so I can both be photogenic and not overheat.

Last week:
Mon - n/a
Tue - 1 hour energetic moshing @ Bolt Thrower gig, Good core training.
Wed - 2 steady sport routes @ Smalldale, okay, got pumped on one, back off another route.
Thu - n/a, shoulder sore from sleeping funny.
Fri - 1 good steep jamming trad lead, 1 hour medium bouldering @ Duntelchaig, both good diverse training.
Sat - 4 good trad leads @ Ardmair, climbed well and with confidence
Sun - 2 good trad leads @ Lochan Dubh, again climbed well and pushed on through a steep crux / 2 steady sport leads @ Moy Rock, difficult route reading and got cross and pumped on one but pushed through due to stubborness, good. Finger slightly sore due to pressure from holds.

Comments:
Ace week, particularly the Bolt Thrower gig (discovered a new way to mosh from the core, more suitable for the short haired, and less damaging to the neck, kinda useful as my neck and shoulders have been stiff and sore from sleeping funny most of the week) and the weekend which is one of the best weekends I've had for years. Funnily enough I found my previous week's indoor training didn't seem to help much with sport stamina (still got very pumped) but did help with my trad confidence - I had an unusually high level of committment and go-for-it, something I very rarely achieve, and I made good use out of it. Will keep trying to capitalise on this if I can, and otherwise keep mixing it up with bouldering and sport which I'm finding useful for the syke. I need to do more antagonistic exercises as although my body is okay, neck and shoulders need some work.