[i_a_coops]

So I found out that I have free access to a campus board, and it's conveniently a couple of miles away so I can run there and get fit. Unfortunately, I then went and found out that's it's not really a campus board as we know it, it's about 4 feet from bottom to top with the rungs very close together (I can quite happily do 1-7-match, the double handed dyno to the top of the board will probably happen next time.... there goes of real 1-4-7 by the end of the summer!).

So my question is, is it worth doing lots of touches (a la moonblog) with varying numbers of fingers? I'm trying to work on my lats, and my back 3 strength, as these seem to be my weak areas atm. I've been climbing for about 4 years and am trying to break into 7C (I'm allowed to dream, Three Nine. Also I'm climbing lots and am much, much better at technical stuff than brute strength).

And if not touches, is there anything else worth doing on this mini board?

Also I did a lot of sets today (1-5-6-5-6 etc.) keeping going until failure, is this the best way to go about it or should I do set numbers? My forearms got a quite pumped at the time but a few hours later I can't even tell I've been using them!

Thanks,
Ian

[Nibile]

campusing on back three seems pretty dangerous to me, i'd skip that and keep doing touches with some added weight (up to 10%), or doing plyometrics, even double handed.
probably on such a short board you will get better gains on power endurance than pure power.

[i_a_coops]

Trouble is, I campus completely open handed so it's quite hard getting all four fingers on! Back three open handed didn't feel tweaky at all.

Some power endurance would be nice, I had a brief go at doing french pull ups on successive rungs, this turned out to be nails and I only managed to get up 3 rungs..... is that the kind of thing you're talking about? I dislike campusing down as it feels far too likely that I'd injure myself!

Don't really know what plyometrics I could do, i can go from the first rung to any other rung and then to the top rung all in one movement, but no matter which intermediate I use it doesn't feel hard enough to be decent training 
I'm a bit scared of double dynos as well but I'll give them a go!

Thanks!

[Nibile]

yes plyometric is likely to be dangerous, but that's hard to get strong on that board otherwise!!!
i have done loads of plyometric stuff, like for example starting with both hands on, for instance, rung 3. then you drop down with one hand on 1, and with the same hand you pop up as high as you can. you do it 3 times in a row for each arm, and do 4-5 sets per arm with good rests, like 4-5 mins.
you can also do the same double handed.
or, you can start with both hands on 1 and try go as high as you can with the other hand, with repeated dynos leaving still one hand on 1.
or, you can do a one arm lock off (or 3 max pull ups) before doing the dynos, to pre-fatigue the muscle.


here http://www.climbingtraining.it/allenamento4-e.php you can find a few ideas and videos.

[Three Nine]

Just so you know Ian, that campus board was kindly donated to OUMC by Tom Starke. He had trained on the the original campus board with its originator and knew a thing or two about rock climbing when he built it.

[account_inactive]

Except for how long it should be and how close the rungs are 

[a dense loner]

i know. what did your reply mean 3of9? i know how to stick my dick in a dyke but it doesn't mean i do

[tobym]

i know how to stick my dick in a dyke but it doesn't mean i do

She'd probably say it wasn't her cup of tea, either

[i_a_coops]

Haha I was trying not to whinge too much, I'd never want to insult hallowed OUMC property..... didn't Johnny Dawes say Iffley bouldering was the best in the country? 

(actually I shouldn't diss Iffley, I've been meaning to have another crack at Ecstasy for ages now. For some reason I've not got round to it.... I wonder why).

So what was the reasoning behind cutting a huge semicircle out of the bottom half of it instead of putting rungs on it?

You clearly weren't that psyched for the mini board either Mark, surely you'd have sanded the rungs if you had been?!