[Three Nine]

STG: Avenged, Threadbare, Beginner's Wall
MTG: Strong for Europe, particularly on pockets/open, onsight 7cs and do lots of 8as in diff styles
LTG: Tuppence in spring 2011

M Rest, cardio 30 mins run
T power 45, unstructured 2 hours
W power 45, unstructured 2 hours
T power 45, unstructured 2 hours, vague emphasis on open/pockets and best session of the lot. run 30 mins.
F 'rest' drive to sheffield
S few routes at rubicon, did eponymous 7a+ twice then fell off last move of the 7b to the right on the onsight  like the retard i am. redpointed. went for walk to look at the cornice, Freemonster looks ace. couldnt repeat Millers Tale. 
S some low 7s milage at Chee Dale, went to beginner's wall. really really struggled. Keen to go back for it.

Generally felt a bit tired and lacking in oomph/snap but ace 3 day weekend pottering with mates in the Peak. Will rest today and mebbe tomorrow then try and get some snap on the board, focussing on big moves and burl as i had none on beginner's wall. Its a sad day when i have to think about specific training for 7b+s.

[shark]

Well done ! I see you have edged ahead of me on the 8a leader board. I was briefly tempted to retro-upgrade the Full Prow to 8a to get ahead again. Don't rest on your laurels...

[andybfreeman]

S some low 7s milage at Chee Dale, went to beginner's wall. really really struggled. Keen to go back for it.

was it not soaking? that'd been our plan but combination of weather and hangover meant we stayed away

omar might be training on wed

[Nibile]

you all know my goals.

M - gym. bouldering on the 45°, then footless bouldering with 5 kilos on. beasted my elbow, guess why.
T - rest.
W - deadhangs (slopey edge) and lock offs, left arm only 10 sets of 2. then one armers, 6 sets of 2. guess my goal?
T - rest.
F - rest. slept all day.
S - BEASTMAKER. max deadhangs on 20°, on left and right eye, on big rungs and small rungs. lock offs on the incut rung. then one armers on the incut rung, 5 sets of 3. had to take off a few kilos on some hangs to complete them. then elbow exercises as from the article linked on "long term...".
S - rest. and elbow rehab.

comments: my elbow really took it toll. i beasted and beasted it and it got angry. fair enough. so i started the rehab. i am training only my left arm at the moment, i am sure it will pay off not only for malc's one armer. i am horribly weak on my left arm, so everything i do will help alot i'm sure. also, my finger is recovering but i have to test it. there's time.
on monday i felt not bad, but all the last sessions have been highly hindered by my injuries, so i am completely clueless about my current state of form, climbing wise.
on the fingerboard i felt quite good, not so shitty.
will keep on doing this until complete recovery. THINK LONG TERM.

[Falling Down]

STG’s – Get proper body fit for Surfing trip to Sumatra (ticked hopefully)
MTG’s – Redpoint 7c (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine) & Onsight E5 (Right Wall)
LTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a.

M – 45 mins interval swimming
T – AM: 45mins interval swimming.
W – Pressups
T - Bodyweight and core
F
S - 45 minute hill runs
S - Logging all afternoon

Hard week at work last week with travel to London and Aberdeen in one day.

I head off to Sumatra tomorrow so there'll be no power club updates  for a couple of weeks.

[Three Nine]

S some low 7s milage at Chee Dale, went to beginner's wall. really really struggled. Keen to go back for it.

was it not soaking? that'd been our plan but combination of weather and hangover meant we stayed away

omar might be training on wed

it drizzled on and off, but we didn't do anything which required amazing conditions

[Three Nine]

Well done ! I see you have edged ahead of me on the 8a leader board. I was briefly tempted to retro-upgrade the Full Prow to 8a to get ahead again. Don't rest on your laurels...

thanks! but i think this is cos you're losing points from things dropping off the 12 month limit, so i dont think i really deserve the laurels quite yet

[nik at work]

M - Brief lunchtime session
T - Sport session at Kilnsey
W - Nothing
T - Sport session at Kilnsey
F - Short evening session at Woodwell
S - Got a new chainsaw
S - Watched telly with ill three year old

No real training this week but a fair amount of climbing.

[k2ted]

stg - yyfy -the finger seems better after 4 months .... Taking 4 days off from friday then hopefully finger will be fullky settled. No Craig-y-longridge traversing this wk as no time. slightly stronger this week so happy:)

mon - Brownstones
tues - rest
weds - Brownstones
thurs - rest
fri - Moon/ Beastmaker sess - like em both lots!!
sat - rest
sun - rest

[Charles]

Cheers for the reminder Simon. It gets hard to post on this when you've done sweet FA!

Monday - Matrix. Weak.
Tuesday - Nothing.
Wednesday - Nothing.
Thursday - Matrix. Worst session ever. Left within 45 mins.
Friday - Nothing.
Saturday - Nothing
Sunday - Nothing

Reached a massive plateau in my bouldering. So instead of overcoming it, its time to switch to sport climbing.

[shark]

Cheers for the reminder Simon. It gets hard to post on this when you've done sweet FA!
Reached a massive plateau in my bouldering. So instead of overcoming it, its time to switch to sport climbing.

Grinding thru the slumps is dispiriting. It happens to us all. Switch to fun climbing to relight the fire or dig in 

Read Doyle's blog from 27.4 onwards http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14806.0.html

[iain]

Thanks for the reminder too, just been pre-occupied and lazy

Mon: Bouldered, felt good
Tues: Nowt
Wed: Nowt
Thurs: Routes, lots of volume
Fri: Nowt
Sat: Fingerboard, felt good
Sun: Wife cruised cross-country half marathon with almost no training, 6 miles was the longest she'd run for months. Good effort


Stick with it Charles, it'll come good soon

[Stubbs]

Hmm should have wrote down what I did! The general gist was:

M: Weights, core and Beastmaker
T: Nowt
W: Beastmaker and core
T: Beastmaker and weights (managed full lock on 35's which has always eluded me on my Beastmaker)
F: Non climbing holiday
S: Non climbing holiday
S: Non climbing holiday

[JamesD]

not the most productive week, a bit dissappointed myself, been feeling a bit down about my work situation at the moment:

General goals, improve grade, develop footwork, increase explosive power whilst losing weight.

Monday: rest

Tuesday: Mental session, really went for it today, did two laps on the traverse circuit, clocked at least 6-8 overhangs (repeating several), and eliminated holds with Dyno's on several moves (only V1/V2 problems though), managed to get halfway up a V3, pinch grip is improving, great session, skin felt destroyed though.

Wednesday: Wall session, the skin on my hands was seriously bad today, shockingly so, tried to do some more overhang work today, right elbow felt irritated where I injured it previously, calmed down and stuck to slabs/vertical stuff, and mild overhangs, not happy...thought this was healed 
Ended up with me finishing after an hour or so due to my skin feeling like it was on fire, I guess I overcooked it by not resting after such a hard session yesterday.

Thursday: Rest

Friday: Swim Sauna Steam room etc.

Saturday: Another indoor session, was meant to be outdoors but got rained off...again.
Started off good, elbow still not 100% though, not hurting but not feeling healthy, need rest/strengthening of neglected muscle groups probably.
Missus has a storming session, blasts up a load of V0+, V1's, and even does her first V1 overhang.
She was well pleased, so she hangs from the top, goes to jump off in a perfectly controlled manner, and then disaster, she executes what looks like a perfect landing and then keels over in pain....
After we get her in the ambulance they think it's just a bad sprain, no apparent swelling, doesn't look like a typical fracture, and having suffered quite a few injuries myself (including many broken bones/sprains etc), I assure her its either a minor fracture or a bad sprain, as there is no apparent local tissue damage, but obviously they take her to the hospital for x-rays etc.
It turns out it's a minor fracture, the nurse and doctor both congratulate her for not only breaking it in the best possible place, but also managing to do so without damaging any surrounding muscle tissue/tendons at all, they said this suggests that the fracture was caused by impact transmitted from the heel. This is later confirmed from the missus after she calmed down, when I asked her what happened, and I find out that she felt her right foot bottom out through the matting to the floor.
Luckily the fracture is minor enough that after attending the fracture clinic they have given her a removable plastic brace, and she can bear some weight on it with this, she is a bit gutted as she is in the middle of uni exams right now and it couldn't have come at a worse time, fingers crossed it should heal fine with no complications.

[chris_j_s]

She was well pleased, so she hangs from the top, goes to jump off in a perfectly controlled manner, and then disaster, she executes what looks like a perfect landing and then keels over in pain....

   Ouch, I hope she makes a speedy recovery.

[iain]

She was well pleased, so she hangs from the top, goes to jump off in a perfectly controlled manner, and then disaster, she executes what looks like a perfect landing and then keels over in pain....

   Ouch, I hope she makes a speedy recovery.

 

[JamesD]

Cheers guys 

[calum]

Monday - Ran about
Tuesday - bouldering for couple of hours at westway
Wed - Ran about, almost ended up enjoying it, the sunshine was lovely
Thurs - bouldering at westway
Friday- westway
Sat - Core exercise, always feel good after doing them
Sun - westway, felt good

STG(basically this summer): Continue working to grip handholds as lightly as possible.  Go bouldering outside in london for the first time, do dry tooling bouldering project without falling off and breaking my back. When back in scotland try to onsight firestone, have a look at the hurting,  get over to skye and do some new routes.  When in cham, do joe le taxi, try a new route on the dru, try a nice unclimbed steep ice line that I know of, get on thai boxing, fall off thai boxing.  Explore the argentiere glacier more and do some new routes. 

LTG(basically this winter):  Have my eye on two incredible scottish winter lines.  If I can get up one of them, it would be ace.  Go on first alpine winter trip.