[Krank]

In a board session i have 15 attempts at problems in an hour. I was wondering today whether better results could be obtained by climbing 1 problem 15 times and selecting a different problem for each session or climb 15 problems but only have 1 attempt at each per session.

Any idea's???

[erm, sam]

I think you would probably be best doing 4 probs 3 times each and then a couple more goes on something. THis gives you the opportunity to try subtle variations in movement initiation, hip position etc on a problem, increasing your technique/movement awareness/skills (even if in a limited way on a board) on a given problem, but keeps you trying a number of probs so you still get a range of different movement demands on the different probs...
If you can't be botheredg with the mental effort to focus on different movement initiations etc then do 15 probs once each.

[Richie Crouch]

I find the best is trying 3 problems (4-5 moves), with 5 attempts on each and 3 min rest times between each attempt which give you time to recover, think about what you did well and maybe tweak things for the next go.

[Nibile]

i think it depends on what is the goal of the session.

[Krank]

Cheers fella's. Nibile the goal of all my sessions between now and Oct is to get strong for the forest.

[Nibile]

i think that doing the same problem 15 times could revolve more around refining the climbing, doing it more efficiently, in order to climb it even when very tired.
with different problems you can set them so that they exhaust you on different qualities, like a very fingery problem, a juggy powerful one, etc.
and having less goes on different problems could also be a mind challenge.
hope this helps.

[Serpico]

Unless you have your problems refined to system training style uniformity: each one designed to target specific movements, then the more problems you do the more complete the workout will be.
If you do just one problem 15 times you risk injury because you will be stressing the same muscles in exactly the same way repeatedly, which works fine with weight training, but climbing moves haven't been refined for form in the same way that lifting weights has; in weight training you move the limb through it's normal plane of motion, in climbing you do whatever it takes to get the next hold.
The most structured way is to take a system training style approach: look for problems that have similar moves (undercuts, gastons, lock-offs, etc) and group them together, make sure that every arm position (for both L+R) is represented, and then do the same for grip types.
A less structured (less anal) approach is just to do a circuit of problems.

[Krank]

Cheers Serpico