[jmews]

Anyone got any experience of the difference between the pain of scar tissue breaking down/stressing ligament slightly for rehab. Vs. actually damaging or re-injuring it? I have a collateral ligament problem in my finger. The (very good) sports physio I saw said that now I've rested it (5 weeks) I need to put slight stress on it - resistance exercise with bands, some cross friction massage and light climbing. He said that I should expect it to be uncomfortable. Trouble is, I didn't ask him to clarify discomfort against actual pain.

So, anyone have any similar experiences? How long does 'good' pain last? It's feeling ok, just a dull ache which I'm taking to mean that today is a day off of any rehab. I'm going slowly, but just after some reassurance!

[Paul B]

I posted a similar thread not so long ago. Basically the mechanics are the same so its very hard to tell...

[Caesar Power]

Gripmaster. These things are never going to actually increase finger strength, but are great for warming up in a car journey before crag/indoor wall/training. Also good for diagnosis. I've been using one during an A2 pulley injury to warm up properly and make sure I haven't caused any further damage. so far, so good.
In my experience 'good pain' should only last a couple of hours and be fine the next day. The key is knowing when to back off and be comfortable with ending a session early if neccessary. It's worth it for faster recovery overall.

[erm, sam]

For me I ask the question:
Is it getting less/staying the same each session painwise, or slowly getting worse? If it is the latter then it is bad pain.
I find there is a certain sharpness to bad pain that isn't there when its (what I think of as) good pain. I'm aware of it, but it doesn't get worse through out the session and it isn't worsen'd suddenly by a powerful move, and doesn't hurt the next day.. The 'powerful move' part is based on the thinking that as long as I'm in any pain I'm climbing below my max or doing very few reps at near my max..

[Jim]

All pain is good.
"GET THOSE JUMP LEADS ON MY NIPPLES NOW BITCH!!!!"

[erm, sam]

For me I ask the question:

What?? Must work on my Inglish.

[jmews]

Thanks. That's pretty much how I saw it. Just finding it really difficult to tell. It pretty much subsides after a night's sleep but whereas after rest it had stopped twinging if I caught it on something, it feels sore again. I'm definitely not even doing anything approaching powerful moves, just playing on easy stuff with pinches and edges.