UKBouldering.com

Ondrawad (Read 855999 times)

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#2275 Re: Ondrawad
June 29, 2022, 09:16:33 pm
Video of Wonderland 9b/+


edshakey

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 527
  • Karma: +29/-0
#2276 Re: Ondrawad
November 20, 2022, 06:42:51 pm
New 9b+ in Czechia

Quote from: Adam Ondra
Zvěřinec (Menagerie) 9b+ (hard) FA❗
Today I completed surely the second hardest route of my life (after Silence) ✌️ In 2011, I made my first ascent of Perlorodka (Pearloyster) after quite a few days of effort. Striking line in possibly the best rock that we have at our homecrag (Moravian Karst, Czechia 🇨🇿) Very improbable crux at solid 8B+ difficulty with reachy moves and desperate slapping of the completely rounded lip of the overhang. Back then, I gave it 9a+, but I think it deserves more 9b 🤔 Zveřinec climbs the same crux and has a different start that could be 9a+ on its own, with good rest in between.
After struggling the last two weeks with conditions, today it was just perfect 👌 0 degrees of Celsius, overcast, no wind, absolutely dry rock. With perfect warmup at my homewall, I could fight the cold temperature of the air and the advantage of the best friction!
 
His second hardest route, but not 9c. It's all getting pretty bunched around those grades!

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#2277 Re: Ondrawad
November 20, 2022, 07:00:12 pm
Good stuff, the local grot keeps giving.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#2278 Re: Ondrawad
November 20, 2022, 10:20:54 pm
His second hardest route, but not 9c. It's all getting pretty bunched around those grades!

Darth grader agrees, hard 9b+ from the description.

MischaHY

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 496
  • Karma: +64/-1
#2279 Re: Ondrawad
November 20, 2022, 10:29:17 pm
Surely if anyone is on point with the grades now it has to be the O-Dog. He even regrades his past self  :punk:

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1676
  • Karma: +76/-2
#2280 Re: Ondrawad
November 28, 2022, 06:07:55 pm
9a onsight alert! Just up on his insta, Water World 9a, Osp, Slovenia

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#2281 Re: Ondrawad
November 28, 2022, 06:16:42 pm
The original mega wad.

For those keeping count at home that's 4x 9a onsights, 1x 9a flash and 1x 9a+ flash.

Liamhutch89

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1258
  • Karma: +87/-1
#2282 Re: Ondrawad
November 28, 2022, 06:55:35 pm
The original mega wad.

For those keeping count at home that's 4x 9a onsights, 1x 9a flash and 1x 9a+ flash.

And 8B+ flash!

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#2283 Re: Ondrawad
November 28, 2022, 07:01:21 pm

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1805
  • Karma: +147/-6
#2284 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 09:33:19 am
Sometimes feels like people are catching up to him but when you look at it he is still a good bit ahead.

Repointing wise the gap has closed but Onsight and flash he is far ahead of everyone, and in bouldering you do wonder how much easier something like Terranova is to Alphane, Will seemed to suggest not much.

Add the likes of Dawn wall into it and Seb, Stefano, Megos and Jacob are some way behind.

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5776
  • Karma: +621/-36
#2285 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 09:45:53 am
Easy to forget he nipped up Dawn Wall on his holidays.

wasbeen

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 188
  • Karma: +8/-0
#2286 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 09:52:51 am
His mental game is an order of magnitude above anyone else. IMO his achievements are despite his physical build rather than because of it.

Liamhutch89

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1258
  • Karma: +87/-1
#2287 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 10:03:19 am
Agreed, Ondra is clearly the best all round climber in the world and he even has the potential to be in the top 3 or 4 boulderers in the world if he wanted to be. Style wise, I think he'd do well on Alphane and Return of the Sleepwalker. He might do well on Soudain Seul too, but I get the impression he'd have next to no chance on Burden due to the raw strength/power requirements, whereas I think the likes of Aidan and Will can probably do it.

Will's comments on Terranova were interesting, but I wonder how much time he spent on it. Based on his ridiculous tick list from that trip it can't have been long! I take his comments with a pinch of salt and assume that if he'd prepared in the same way he did for Alphane (bouldering phase, replica training, his sole focus of the trip) it might have felt a bit different.


wasbeen

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 188
  • Karma: +8/-0
#2288 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 10:10:26 am
If I was to build the perfect climber:
Ondra's brain
Will's fingers
Aidan's core
Janja's dynamic gung-ho
Megos' hair

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#2289 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 10:25:17 am
Fiend's camo shorts

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29220
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#2290 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 10:33:08 am
Seb's accent.

edshakey

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 527
  • Karma: +29/-0
#2291 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 10:48:23 am
Nico's mandolin

Liamhutch89

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1258
  • Karma: +87/-1
#2292 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 11:00:11 am
Dave Graham's crystals (and trickery!)

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#2293 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 11:02:18 am
Si O'Conor's blogging skills

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5776
  • Karma: +621/-36
#2294 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 11:33:24 am
Shark's persistence.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11437
  • Karma: +690/-22
#2295 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 12:19:08 pm
Steve's tenacity.

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#2296 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 12:37:27 pm
Dave Mac's diet...

turnipturned

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 715
  • Karma: +107/-1
#2297 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 01:02:59 pm
Ned's heel

mr chaz

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 452
  • Karma: +59/-0
#2298 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 01:11:24 pm
Varians E Bike

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5796
  • Karma: +187/-5
#2299 Re: Ondrawad
November 29, 2022, 01:23:16 pm
Shatner's bassoon.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal