UKBouldering.com

Ondrawad (Read 855897 times)

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#2250 Re: Ondrawad
January 23, 2022, 09:07:18 pm
Seems to have downgraded King Capella despite having failed to climb it; willy waving?

https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/?utm_medium=copy_link

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4943
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#2251 Re: Ondrawad
January 23, 2022, 09:19:12 pm
Also disagrees with Sharma saying on 8a.nu golpe de estado is 9b+.


HaeMeS

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 170
  • Karma: +13/-0
#2252 Re: Ondrawad
January 23, 2022, 09:27:00 pm
Seems to have downgraded King Capella despite having failed to climb it; willy waving?

https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/?utm_medium=copy_link

 :-\

Ondra: 'In the last two weeks between visiting my sponsors, I got to spend 5 climbing days in Siurana 🇪🇦 The main goal King Capella 9b threw me down numerous times in the crux move, but on my last day I got climb La Furia de Jabali, short explosive and fingery route first ascended by @will_bosi last year ✌️

This one went down very quickly, I had previously checked the moves once, then on the last day after two unsuccessful tries in King Capella, I rechecked the crux move again and did it on my second serious try 👌 The main crux is with the same beta as @will_bosi (00:28 - 00:52), for traverse to the left I use completely different method, the double-gaston shoulder-about-to-explode beta 😅, which might be a little easier. I agree with @jakob.schubert and his proposal 9a+ (compared to original 9b).


Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#2253 Re: Ondrawad
January 24, 2022, 07:31:42 am
Seems to have downgraded King Capella despite having failed to climb it; willy waving?

https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/?utm_medium=copy_link

 :-\

He's talking about Furia, he didn't do King Capella.

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2574
  • Karma: +166/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#2254 Re: Ondrawad
January 24, 2022, 08:06:17 am
Didn’t Schubert and Megos both say 9b so he’s just going with the consensus?

remus

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#2255 Re: Ondrawad
March 02, 2022, 08:12:58 pm

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#2256 Re: Ondrawad
March 03, 2022, 06:52:38 am
Some of his best ever noises.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7976
  • Karma: +631/-115
    • Unknown Stones
#2257 Re: Ondrawad
March 03, 2022, 09:36:37 am
I love this climber.

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#2258 Re: Ondrawad
March 03, 2022, 09:57:41 am
That finger scrape against the wall deadpointing up! What a beast.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#2259 Re: Ondrawad
March 18, 2022, 09:45:31 am
Ondra has onsighted Solitary souls 8c+, in Arco. His ≈25th onsight of a route 8c+ or harder.

Full list on https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-alcanza-las-25-vias-de-8c-o-mas-a-vista/

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1176
  • Karma: +72/-2
#2260 Re: Ondrawad
March 18, 2022, 12:36:58 pm
I hadn’t realised he’d onsighted Super Plandford. For people of a certain age (i.e. me) that’s probably the one on the list that stands out. I thought he’d said none of the old 8c had been onsighted.

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1405
  • Karma: +102/-8
#2261 Re: Ondrawad
March 18, 2022, 01:36:43 pm
Ondra has onsighted Solitary souls 8c+, in Arco. His ≈25th onsight of a route 8c+ or harder.

Full list on https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-alcanza-las-25-vias-de-8c-o-mas-a-vista/

25th onsight of 8c+ or higher. Lmao

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#2262 Re: Ondrawad
March 18, 2022, 03:02:09 pm
I hadn’t realised he’d onsighted Super Plandford. For people of a certain age (i.e. me) that’s probably the one on the list that stands out. I thought he’d said none of the old 8c had been onsighted.
Jibe Tribout's comment was
Quote from: Jean-Baptiste
Ondra est le meilleur grimpeur du monde car il a fait super plafond à-vue

I also think that there should perhaps be a few more routes on the list. Adam Ondra downgraded Gora Guta Gutarak to 8c but pretty much everyone who has done it after says 8c+, which is the grade it gets in the current guide book as well.

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1176
  • Karma: +72/-2
#2263 Re: Ondrawad
March 18, 2022, 03:24:34 pm
I can see why Jibe would want that to be the case but is it true? Is SP first amongst equals on the list, I can’t imagine even Ondra chilling out halfway up scoping out the sequence, on the other hand it might be a bit more obvious what do from the ground than some of the others.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#2264 Re: Ondrawad
March 18, 2022, 03:28:53 pm
IIRC Ondra thinks that Il Domani (9a) is his proudest onsight. There is no doubt it is 9a, fairly hard moves etc.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#2265 Re: Ondrawad
March 18, 2022, 03:45:49 pm
I can see why Jibe would want that to be the case but is it true? Is SP first amongst equals on the list, I can’t imagine even Ondra chilling out halfway up scoping out the sequence, on the other hand it might be a bit more obvious what do from the ground than some of the others.
[/quotesk]
Slapping up those slippy slopers at the top looks droppable though.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#2266 Re: Ondrawad
May 26, 2022, 01:12:16 pm


when 8c+ is approaching a rest

Nike Air

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +72/-1
#2267 Re: Ondrawad
May 26, 2022, 01:28:32 pm
 :tumble:
He was in eco mode all the way! Stunning

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#2268 Re: Ondrawad
May 26, 2022, 01:49:02 pm
jeez he really does piss that.

Duncan campbell

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 764
  • Karma: +47/-2
#2269 Re: Ondrawad
May 26, 2022, 02:57:10 pm
Incredible bit of climbing that isn’t it. Doesn’t put a foot wrong having never been on the thing and having no beta!!  :jaw:

The undisputed master. Looking on good form. Will be ace if/when he goes and has a look at Bibliography and DNA.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#2270 Re: Ondrawad
May 26, 2022, 03:09:02 pm
At a more pedestrian level, I have witnessed two of my long term projects being onsighted by Dave Graham and it was mind-blowing to see him find every single move and body position (bar a single move on the easier of the two) on the fly on something that I struggled so much with.

In the video above it is just hard to believe that the route really is 8c+. Isn't that supposed to be slightly tricky?

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8810
  • Karma: +812/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
#2271 Re: Ondrawad
May 26, 2022, 03:49:49 pm
I hadn’t realised he’d onsighted Super Plandford. For people of a certain age (i.e. me) that’s probably the one on the list that stands out. I thought he’d said none of the old 8c had been onsighted.

he did

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#2272 Re: Ondrawad
May 26, 2022, 04:26:39 pm
Love that he wanted to carry on, and could have no problem. Incredible.

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5525
  • Karma: +347/-5
#2273 Re: Ondrawad
May 26, 2022, 05:33:51 pm
Nothing better than an Ondra running commentary: "Here I was quite pumped, but it was OK."

Rocksteady

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Crank
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +45/-0
  • Hotter than the sun!
#2274 Re: Ondrawad
June 28, 2022, 02:29:35 pm
Nothing better than an Ondra running commentary: "Here I was quite pumped, but it was OK."

I really enjoyed this line in particular too.
Also the way at the beginning the way he said "it just goes on and on and on, same difficulty" as if it was something very pedestrian and a little bit boring. And not an amazing looking 8c+!

What I always get from Ondra is how much he loves climbing, he loves it all from the rock and the scenery right down to the individual moves; it just shines out of him.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal